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Post by tojeiro on Feb 27, 2017 17:25:22 GMT
I fought with a lot of nuts and bolts until I got some PB blaster.
More expensive than WD40 but the difference is amazing. It has a proper capillary action.
Bought 2 tins to save on postage and still have a full can on the shelf.
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Post by sheffjohn on Feb 27, 2017 20:22:15 GMT
If your still struggling, can you get the part your struggling with to a garage? (Sorry I've skim read.)
I've never found anything my milwakee gun won't split (It's 1300ft/lb in reverse if i remember rightly) And I mean anything. Cheltnams a long way from me or you'd be welcome to use mine !
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Post by pikey on Feb 27, 2017 20:56:19 GMT
It's the central bit of the bolt that's rusted solid onto the bottom bit of the hub. On one of them anyway, the other one it might be stuck to the bush.
I can put them in the boot and take them to a garage round the corner from work. They helped me with drilling out a manifold stud a couple of years back. Or i might try and hacksaw through the bolt myself first.
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Post by casesensitive on Feb 27, 2017 21:31:31 GMT
So my mates impact gun is also no good! Luckily, he had a 1" drive socket and bar that we got the front hubs off with. No luck with the back ones though, so I still have the driveshafts attached to the uprights and hubs, and the lower arm too as I cant get the bolt out! I've started painting the chassis, and we've traced the floor shapes out of the aluminium sheet, but these last few rear drivetrain parts are really getting me down, not sure what to do as I've got everything else in my van ready to take for soda blasting and this is holding that whole process up!  Big Red Wrench Method is the way for most things though; get a MAP torch, heat the thing to be stripped (not what it's attached to), and after it's cooled (violently with water where appropriate) hit the joint with penetrated fluid (I got a nice one with graphite in it). Come back an hour later and it'll come off easy. a few good whacks of a hammer sometimes needed, or an air hammer if you have it and need to be more subtle. I had the same issue a few years ago, I'd stripped and sold the wheels and callipers before I removed the driveshaft nuts. I used a 12mm bar with two holes drilled in it to line up with bolts in the hub.. .wait, good ol iPhoto'll have it. Yeah, like this! Breaker bar (just a 1/2" extender, 6-sided socket not 12, and an 5ft length of 3mm wall water pipe, yanking out of the thing did the trick.  |
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Post by pikey on Feb 28, 2017 12:47:15 GMT
The guy who is going to blast the subframes etc, says the garage next door to them will sort it out no problem. So that's a load off my mind - I'll just give them the whole assembly (driveshaft, hub, knuckle, lower arm) and a couple of days later I'll have a load of shiny shiny parts and my wallet will be slightly worse off  I've already got to buy new lower arm bolts as I smashed the **** out of them trying to dislodge them, and squashed all the threads together. I think they're about £12 each, but hey.  That's the assembly - I cant disassemble it any further, so I'm going to give it to someone who can |
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Post by Fin on Feb 28, 2017 17:10:18 GMT
Getting that knuckle off can be quite challenging, especially that lower bolt. Why Mazda thought it was a good idea to leave the middle part uncovered and open to all the elements is beyond me. Have a look at suffolk-mazda on eBay and AutolinkMX5.com. I got a replacement from them as my N/S driveshaft had "welded" itself at the spline.
As @gwynar always says, crack the hub nuts while you've still got the weight of the car to work against.
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Post by casesensitive on Mar 1, 2017 8:05:31 GMT
So my mates impact gun is also no good! Luckily, he had a 1" drive socket and bar that we got the front hubs off with. No luck with the back ones though, so I still have the driveshafts attached to the uprights and hubs, and the lower arm too as I cant get the bolt out! I've started painting the chassis, and we've traced the floor shapes out of the aluminium sheet, but these last few rear drivetrain parts are really getting me down, not sure what to do as I've got everything else in my van ready to take for soda blasting and this is holding that whole process up! Big Red Wrench Method is the way for most things though; get a MAP torch, heat the thing to be stripped (not what it's attached to), and after it's cooled (violently with water where appropriate) hit the joint with penetrated fluid (I got a nice one with graphite in it). Come back an hour later and it'll come off easy. a few good whacks of a hammer sometimes needed, or an air hammer if you have it and need to be more subtle. I had the same issue a few years ago, I'd stripped and sold the wheels and callipers before I removed the driveshaft nuts. I used a 12mm bar with two holes drilled in it to line up with bolts in the hub.. .wait, good ol iPhoto'll have it. Yeah, like this! Breaker bar (just a 1/2" extender), 6-sided socket not 12, and an 5ft length of 3mm wall water pipe, yanking out of the thing did the trick. |
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Post by pikey on Mar 1, 2017 17:40:27 GMT
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Post by ru5ty1004 on Mar 3, 2017 22:03:43 GMT
Hey, are you guys in Cheltenham? I'm in Glos at a similar stage to you!
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Post by sheffjohn on Mar 3, 2017 22:26:37 GMT
Odd question, "bell" didn't use to have an e30 and a grey 200Sx and be involved with drifting did he ? And live next to a posh dog kennels or something similar ?
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Post by pikey on Mar 7, 2017 13:19:53 GMT
Not sure on list of previous cars - he's had all sorts of old *&*@, mostly BMWs - but yeah he used to do drifting, still does a bit I think. That's how I met him, he used to help run the drifting days at Birmingham Wheels  |
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Post by pikey on Mar 10, 2017 11:27:11 GMT
Trimmed the aluminium floor panels last night:  |
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Post by pikey on Mar 20, 2017 13:28:10 GMT
Drilled all the holes and PU'd one of the panels to the car yesterday, along with installing about 20 rivets which is hard work! Hope to get both panels fully fixed on this week, then will feel like we've achieved something |
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Post by eman on Mar 20, 2017 14:15:40 GMT
Don't rivet along the seat rails until you have fitted the seats, as you are more than likely going to rivet where you need to drill. Most seem to have had the same issue... Oh and if you have a compressor, buy yourself an air riveter!!! |
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Post by pikey on Mar 21, 2017 11:05:07 GMT
Yup - I've left two of the rivets out on the seat rails - next job is to flip the car over and fit the seats, then I can install the final four rivets on each side Air riveter would be ace - this one I've borrowed off my brother is a beast but it's still all of my strength to get them to break off, and Emma bless her cant physically do it at all! I did another 10 last night, and will do the rest tonight, and then I'll have a rest because the pads of my hands are killing and I need to not be bruised for minibike mx racing this weekend. |
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