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Post by SeanW on Nov 28, 2016 5:02:10 GMT
The fast blink is because of the load difference between LEDs and incandescent bulbs. You can get a load resistor or modify your blinker unit with a resistor. I have some info on it on my build thread. I haven't done the research on NB flasher mods for LEDs, though. It may not be as straight forward as it is on the NA flasher. mevowners.proboards.com/thread/8227/san-jose-build-chassis-155?page=6 |
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Post by SeanW on Nov 28, 2016 5:29:33 GMT
Actually, I recant some of what I just said. I still think it's a load issue, maybe you've missed a ground somewhere?
As for fuel level, I have a similar issue. I've tested that the sender works and has good ground by the cluster gauge shows me nothing. Doesn't bug me much since I'm going to replace my gauges with SpeedHut instruments.
I think your best place to start is to trace the lead from the cluster back to the fuel sender checking for continuity on each segment. Then check that the sender itself isb grounded. After that, check that the sender it's working by checking it's resistance. ( I doubt that your sender is broken, though.)
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 28, 2016 7:18:09 GMT
Have you checked the 15A meter fuse in the inside box..
With key on ground the BR/B wire at the tank.. Fuel gauge should swing to full it will take a few seconds..If it does not check the connector between the front and rear harness it was behind the driver seat on the shelf..Move forward if still no go to the cluster.
ground wire at connector on cluster. no go then look for a torn strip on the back of cluster.. If it does work from tank check your ground wire at the tank B wires. These were grounded left side of the rear shelf.. Does your fuel pump work noise and pressure..
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Post by calibuild on Dec 2, 2016 18:29:49 GMT
Thanks for your tips! I'm trying them out as I took the day off from work as this seems more fun  Fuel Tank: Fuel pump seems to work, as I can start and run the car. In terms of power, it gets a read at each point with a couple exceptions. If I unplug the connector to the gauge pod, the brown and black wire gets no power. Plugged in, it does. The red and blue wire that goes into B5B4 thing, gets no power. Per the wire diagram, i think that's only if the tank is on "E", so it might make sense that it gets no power. Here's a picture of each point, the fuel tank picture doesn't have the multi-meter in it (upper left), but brown /black is getting 5V power. Gets power at the gauge (upper right), power at the rear plug (lower left). Red and blue, no power (lower right).  Turn Signal (updated 12/2)
Thanks SeanW, I've definitely pilfered your thread for ideas (ground bar, trailer light converter....) and impressed with your electrical engineering skills! The turn signal and hazards work fine, except when the low beams come on, when they blink really fast (like 1 bulb is out, no LEDs just stock bulbs), or the hazards don't blink at all. Unplugging the low beams and head lights makes no change. If I unplug the fuse to the tail lights (lower right, light blue 15A fuse), the signals and hazards blink correctly...... then the low beams and rear lights for driving at night don't work though.
Any thoughts? Will keep working.
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Post by gwnwar on Dec 3, 2016 6:47:28 GMT
Pull the connector from the fuel tank pod.. If you ground the BR/B to the frame/battery with key ON/run does the fuel move
to full slowly Y/N???
Make sure both black wires pod connector are grounded (OHM Meter)
Do you have Power to the B/Y wire on the gauge cluster. If not it gets its power from the METER fuse 15A inside box.
The R/L wire from B5B4 (Fuel Pump Relay) is the power supply to the fuel pump not the gauge. With pod connector hooked up and engine running you should have power to the pod R/L in the connector.. You will not have power if not starting 3 seconds or running.
Power to the FPR is both W/L wires they get power from the Main Relay (In Engine Fuse Box).. The relay is tripped by the PCM or Data Link Box being jumped between FP and GRD key on. Putting power to R/L wire/pump..
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Post by calibuild on Dec 3, 2016 22:11:37 GMT
Fuel Gauge:Hmmmm..... good advice! Okay: Grounding the Brown and Black wire at the fuel tank causes the fuel gauge to increase slowly, so the gauge pod seems good Multi meter reads 5V with either ground wire while the red tip is touching the brown and black, seems like grounds are good The black and yellow wire gets 12V at the gauge pod, brown and black gets 5V This seems to eliminate the gauge pod, and power, suggesting the fuel tank is the issue. Wonder if it being empty for 6 months dried it out? Will try adding some more fuel (should have at least 3 gallons, likely 4ish), and see if it shakes it loose. 12.7 gallon tank, so another 2 gallons will put it close to half way. Turn Signals:
Hooked up the LEDs to both rear sides now, and am using 2 trailer converters and 4 resistors. Some progress, but can't seem to get it quite right.... am slowly losing my mind. Looks like SeanW did it with 1 trailer converter and splicing wires together. SeanW if you happen to have any great pics of how yours is wired, would love to see it. I get everything to work except the turn signals when the lights are on full. Using 4 resistors total. Think I've done every iteration, and tried to view yours.... mevowners.proboards.com/thread/8227/san-jose-build-chassis-155?page=6
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Post by SeanW on Dec 3, 2016 23:24:39 GMT
I'm out of town at the moment but I'll see what I can get to you when I'm back on Monday.
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Post by calibuild on Dec 4, 2016 1:00:40 GMT
Well...... I can't explain it... but it seems to work. Hooked up a resistor to the front turn signals as well. Hazards seem a touch dim, but that just might be me and not an actual thing. That's a big step forward!! Yay Now need to clean up the wires, replace my heater hose (it's kinked), fit the body, fix the gas gauge, drill the rear braces.... haha Love it! SeanW - thanks, I think I'm all set now (for the moment at least  ) |
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Post by SeanW on Dec 4, 2016 1:31:34 GMT
Well...... I can't explain it... but it seems to work. Hooked up a resistor to the front turn signals as well. Hazards seem a touch dim, but that just might be me and not an actual thing. That's a big step forward!! Yay Now need to clean up the wires, replace my heater hose (it's kinked), fit the body, fix the gas gauge, drill the rear braces.... haha Love it! SeanW - thanks, I think I'm all set now (for the moment at least ) Sweet! Glad to hear that it's working for you now! |
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Post by russ872 on Dec 4, 2016 7:31:58 GMT
Ahhh... Isn't wiring fun!! After getting the engine running, I spent most of September and October trimming out 75% of the wire... And with some help from Ken, learned how to use a multimeter and found the one wire I missed, which switched on the coil pack. So it runs again. Wiring stilll not "pretty", but all the lights work and I've been out driving around. I'm using LEDs for everything. The headlights were tricky, since the stalk switch connects the high and low beam to ground, after the light. So the light sees 1 positive and 2 negatives. LEDs use 2 positives and a shared negative. I had to add a separate switch, which the light test guy didn't like. One trailer harness allows the use of a pair of LED strips to act as running light, turn signals and brake light. I found when hooking up the hazard switch (yes, you need this), it caused the rapid flashing turn signal. The LED relay mentioned earlier replaces the stock flasher relay and calms down the flash rate.
If you're ever around Oceanside, let me know!! Russ.b@cox.net
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Post by calibuild on Dec 12, 2016 18:55:13 GMT
Hey Russ, sounds very cool! I'm still working on getting there Replaced the leaking radiator with the OEM replacement.... which is 99% identical but not quite. Had to reconfigure the sides and it took a bit longer then expected. Also reran the Heater hoses.  Thinking of going for the SB100 this week, one question I had is once you go and get the 60 day "permit", does it start as soon as they issue it? Reading Rumms and SeanW threads, it takes 7 days-ish to get it in the mail. I still have to clean up the electrical, mount and cut the body panels, configure the muffler etc. I'm not the fastest, so wondering if I should push out the DMV. Work is slow in Dec which just makes it a bit easier, but no reason to get it if I won't be ready for CHP etcetera in 60 days. |
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Post by SeanW on Dec 12, 2016 23:59:00 GMT
Thinking of going for the SB100 this week, one question I had is once you go and get the 60 day "permit", does it start as soon as they issue it? Reading Rumms and SeanW threads, it takes 7 days-ish to get it in the mail. I still have to clean up the electrical, mount and cut the body panels, configure the muffler etc. I'm not the fastest, so wondering if I should push out the DMV. Work is slow in Dec which just makes it a bit easier, but no reason to get it if I won't be ready for CHP etcetera in 60 days. You're close enough to the end of the year that it may be worth while just waiting until January to file for the SPCNS number though there should still be numbers left for 2016. (My number was 255 and I got it about a month and a half ago.) When you file for you SPCNS number, it will take about two weeks for the official document to be mailed do you. That document is stamped and notarized. The day you file the DMV should also give you a one-day move permit so that you can take the car to get a brake and light inspection performed. That one-day permit won't have a date written on it, you write the date in the on the day you take your car to get the inspection done. I highly recommend that you scope out the shop to do your brake and light before hand. I spent almost a week trying to find a shop local to me that would actually do it on my custom build car. Most of the shops I talked to didn't want to deal with inspecting a kit car. The brake and light certificates that you get will be good for, I think, 60 days from the date the service shop issues them. Then you take those certificates back to the DMV and they'll issue you a 60-90 day temporary registration. With that, you can then make your appointment with the CHP for VIN inspection. Your CHP appointment will almost certainly be one to two weeks out from the date you make it, maybe three. (Mine is tomorrow morning.) Once that's done, you go back to the DMV with the paperwork that you get from the CHP, they enter your shiny new VIN into the system. Then you make an appointment to visit the smog ref for inspection which I understand can also be two to three weeks out from the date that you call to make the appointment. They won't set an appointment until after you've got a VIN. I tried, they politely told me pound sand. Basically, you can get your SPCNS number now and then start the clock on inspections whenever you're ready. You will have to pay your registration fees up-front. |
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Post by SeanW on Dec 13, 2016 16:47:53 GMT
Small note you should have gotten a plaque with the chassis serial number on it with your paperwork. You need to rivet that onto your frame some place. I didn't and that is causing me some headaches with the CHP inspection.
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Post by calibuild on Dec 13, 2016 18:17:27 GMT
Small note you should have gotten a plaque with the chassis serial number on it with your paperwork. You need to Robert that onto your frame some place. I didn't and that is causing me some headaches Wei 8th the CHP inspection. Awesome, thanks for the notes, will definitely leverage. Thinking I'm going to try for the 1st step with the DMV this week... just to get the process started. |
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Post by calibuild on Dec 16, 2016 0:23:38 GMT
Went to the DMV today and had a unique experience. 1st person told me I couldn't do it. Then I needed to bring it to the DMV... then they went to the supervisor, came back and explained that yes, I needed to bring the car to the DMV... finally they dug out the manual and began the steps necessary....... except unlike SeanW and Rumm I didn't get a sequence number. I referenced the notes from their threads, and SeanW's notes in this thread and no.
This wasn't their fault, as they were calling Sacramento and Sacramento (the mysterious "Wendy") refused to issue it (believe this is where the 500 Licenses are "held"). Apparently I have to go get my brake light inspection then go CHP and get that done then I come back and they issue the temp registration then I go to BAR then I come back
The rationale was that they couldn't issue a sequence number to a car that doesn't exist.
It took about 3 hours.... after the first hour I wanted to pull back and go somewhere else, but you're kind of stuck with half the paper work done, half not.
I'll update the order above if it changes |
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