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Post by tojeiro on Mar 12, 2019 23:52:42 GMT
Not sure tried to look at other builds but could not see obvious issue although most of the finished cars didn’t have the door option.
Could just have been the way it cured. The rest of the door alignment is fine. The leading corner was not a massive gap but since I was fixing the door anyway just filled this small shutline.
Wife thought I was mad cutting the door for a few mm but these things would probably bug me so better to fix now while I waiting on DVLA.
Maybe Andy can comment on recent mouldings.
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Post by R2S on Mar 13, 2019 17:55:56 GMT
Suspect I'm with you on OCD scale, may be teaching my grandmother etc but GRP continues to 'set' for a long period, and I do mean long, after removal from moulds hence need to be careful how its stored (no idea if this was problem with your door).
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Post by tojeiro on Mar 14, 2019 9:31:19 GMT
Yep, possible it was laid down on the ground or against a wall (before I got it) which would have put some pressure on the screen lip, would also explain the twist as it was much more vertical than the other side.
Probably natural thought process as most people would not lay the door down on the shiny side.
Anyway, all fixed and cost was minimal, all part of the fun building cars at home. If I had paid 30k for a kit I might have had a different viewpoint.
Got my registration paperwork back from DVLA, impressive 8 working days. They even manged to get my receipts back to me.
Plates on order, just waiting on V5 to transfer my private plate.
Then I just need to finish the car. Going to NEC for Practical Classics Classic Car & Restoration Show on 24th March so hope to pick up the final small bits and pieces needed.
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Post by tojeiro on Mar 16, 2019 9:32:44 GMT
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Post by tojeiro on Mar 20, 2019 12:34:55 GMT
Private plate assignment not possible online for some cars, more waiting.
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Post by martinw on Mar 20, 2019 13:15:49 GMT
Private plate assignment not possible online for some cars, more waiting. I printed out some paper number plates while I waited for my reg to be transferred - I'd already got the plates made up, and stuck the paper ones on top so I could get on the road! Martin |
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Post by tojeiro on Mar 21, 2019 20:06:23 GMT
Weather has been trash anyway all week. Decided to use the time to finish extra jobs. Still undecided on grille so decided to mock up a traditional styled option out of some copper plumbing tube.  by -Tojeiro 74- by -Tojeiro 74-My soldering is worse than my welding but thought better to lash extra on so that I could file it back to a smooth joint. Finished in primer state, since this picture I have painted black enamel.  by -Tojeiro 74-I got these badges made by a specialist company that makes domed car badges like the Lotus badge. Emblem is based my Scottish Clan coat of arms, really please how they came out. Got two sizes made, 80mm for front and 40mm for side.  by -Tojeiro 74-The finished badge is about 3mm thick, self adhesive and fully weatherproof. Bought some 5mm black plastic discs from ebay the same diameter to stick them to. Also masked up my headlight lenses for painting.  by -Tojeiro 74-Used Tamiya polycarbonate paint as past experience painting RC model cars proves this stuff bonds great and never cracks or chips even if you bend the covers.  by -Tojeiro 74- |
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Post by tojeiro on Mar 22, 2019 22:50:41 GMT
Much happier with this look.  by -Tojeiro 74-Will get it powedercoated for a bit more resilience. Now that I keep the grille, I think I will try an fit DRL’s in the side inlets. Quite difficult shape and size to judge what would fit best and be easy to mount. Thinking CBS 95mm LED’s or alternatively Toyota Corolla ones have nice 4 point mounts with similar profile. Pleased I kept my MX5 Metex car cover, hopefully keep the worst of the dust off.  by -Tojeiro 74- |
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Post by cricky on Mar 23, 2019 1:06:51 GMT
I’d agree. The bars make it look better
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Post by R2S on Mar 23, 2019 8:54:22 GMT
Bearing in mind the front inlets (the ones I assume you are placing DRLs in) are round when viewed from front why not use a tin of same diameter and shape into profile like the headlamp surrounds (only on their sides) and place circular lights in base of the tins. You could either use the tins as a mould for GRP or if tins are robust enough use them? (A bit like the old method of frenching in lights).
This is how my fogs lights are to be installed.
I very much doubt you'll find anything that fits the profile perfectly but you could also use the above if you find something close to set units in.
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Post by tojeiro on Apr 17, 2019 23:38:55 GMT
Finally got the front lower lights sorted. First job was to make some lexan covers. After a bit of research on google I went with attempt at droop moulding over and aluminium former which I am pleased to say worked very well.  by -Tojeiro 74- by -Tojeiro 74- by -Tojeiro 74-Next was a bigger challenge to make a recess for the lights. Struggled for days to find a suitable size tub to mould off (all kitchen lunch tubs were too small). While buying paint for our bathroom I found these disposable paint tubs in B&Q.  by -Tojeiro 74-Moulded with gelcoat then chopped strand matting then trimmed to suit profile behind front valance, then bonded in with my favourite methacrylate adhesive. Lights are 92mm combined indicator / DRL units. Plan to wire indicators only at the moment and delete originals in the headlight recess.  by -Tojeiro 74-Will try and get a photo tomorrow of the finished front with covers fitted. |
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Post by cricky on Apr 18, 2019 5:16:27 GMT
I was planning something similar but concerned about the height from the ground of the indicators and whether they are compliant. Do you know how high they will end up?
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Post by cricky on Apr 18, 2019 5:18:31 GMT
Also here in Australia the indicators need to be visible from 45 degrees across the car... will the side wall of the cavity block their visibility?
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Post by tojeiro on Apr 18, 2019 17:08:44 GMT
For IVA yes, but for annual MOT (3 years from now) pretty sure that they only need to work. I wouldn't do if it was unsafe but with the cover and brightness of LED you can clearly see the light flashing at about 70 deg on wrong side in daylight even when you can’t see the lens itself. Actually more visible than existing location when headlights are on. Might get some small LED’s for headlight area to fill the hole and keep full compliance. Here is finished front end.  by -Tojeiro 74- |
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Post by tojeiro on Apr 19, 2019 22:33:36 GMT
Another beautiful day up here gave chance for a run out and a few more photos.  by -Tojeiro 74- by -Tojeiro 74- by -Tojeiro 74-One issue I noticed on bumpy roads is that the boot lid doesn’t have a lot of rigidity on the passenger side. Looked at many, many option but eventually decided on these marine friction latches. Was reluctant to add more chrome work but it certainly solved the rattle.  by -Tojeiro 74-In hindsight it might have been better to use the same dual locks on the boot as I did on the bonnet |
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