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Post by hutchey on Nov 1, 2016 19:45:55 GMT
Anyone?
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 1, 2016 21:06:11 GMT
Top hat gaskets.. I would use them.. will work without.. Rubber spring gasket.. Yes use with OEM springs stops squeaks. Adjustable coil overs NO they have smaller dia. springs.. Large front upper control arm bolt washers.. Yes one under bolt head and nut each side L/R.. Steering bracket.. If steering wheel were you want it L/R you can put spacer or stack of washers in space..
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Post by hutchey on Nov 2, 2016 11:22:30 GMT
Top hat gaskets.. I would use them.. will work without.. Rubber spring gasket.. Yes use with OEM springs stops squeaks. Adjustable coil overs NO they have smaller dia. springs.. Large front upper control arm bolt washers.. Yes one under bolt head and nut each side L/R.. Steering bracket.. If steering wheel were you want it L/R you can put spacer or stack of washers in space.. Brilliant, many thanks 👍
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Post by hutchey on Nov 17, 2016 17:12:40 GMT
Had some good results today and collected the suspension whilst my car was in. I needed someone with a spring compressor to fit them back together. Now we can fit them and get it rolling and hopefully at the right height.
I do have an engine problem on a different car though and wondered if anyone was good at diagnosing?
1.6 efi, starts and idles ok, revs fine whilst stationary. Drives ok for a short distance then it reduces power and throttle response. Dipping clutch and revving does not go past 2000 revs.
turn engine off, leave for 10 seconds, restart and then it drives as normal again.
I've changed spark plugs, leads, fuel filter and the tank has been checked for its connections and all look ok.
I'm thinking it might be the CAT breaking down or the fuel pump but it drives ok for around 5-8 miles before the above happens.
Anyone got any ideas?
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 18, 2016 2:44:19 GMT
I would look at the cat too. If you can loosen the cat from the down pipe put a few washers in the opening. take it for a drive it will be loud. If all is good replace cat.. But find out what caused the cat to go bad,, bad coil, plugs, wires, burning oil.. You can also put a fuel pressure gauge in line..
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Post by hutchey on Dec 11, 2016 19:51:18 GMT
Finally back in the garage and more problems. Got replacement stock suspension and it still fouls on the bananas and the outer edge of the subframe! My fuel tank brackets need to be cut, moved and re-welded in the right place. Do we need to put a drip tray or something under it and do we need to mount it on the underside of the brackets or on top.
Coming to the handbrake - before I go and weld the brackets on to hold the handbrake and other bit in place, do I need to have it adjusted and or pulled up?
Anyone remember what size hole to drill for the accelerator cable and square clip?
Cheers
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Post by hutchey on Feb 26, 2017 16:16:56 GMT
Hi, it's been a while doing nothing but I'm now able to get some time on the car. I'm looking at welding some brackets in place for the likes of: Handbrake Rear fuel tank mount (only 3 reach my mk2 tank) dash mount Battery tray in the front bulkhead ECU tray up front too
However, I'm stuck on where the front lights would go and just can't find a good enough picture to show me some examples on how best to do this.
Also thinking of running braided brake hoses right from the front calipers to the master cylinder - is this a good idea? THey would need to be secured with p clips near the suspension somewhere OR do I weld some small brackets in place and just use longer braided to these and then copper to the cylinder? (Same idea for the rears too)
Thanks.
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Post by jgilbert on Feb 26, 2017 18:13:51 GMT
H However, I'm stuck on where the front lights would go and just can't find a good enough picture to show me some examples on how best to do this. Also thinking of running braided brake hoses right from the front calipers to the master cylinder - is this a good idea? THey would need to be secured with p clips near the suspension somewhere OR do I weld some small brackets in place and just use longer braided to these and then copper to the cylinder? (Same idea for the rears too) Thanks. Re Lights - have you got the actual headlights yet? First thing is to check the IVA positioning. This might help, There's also a Daytime Running Light measurement but I would fit these after the IVA. To avoid any issues with brightness of the DRL and indictors. Re Brake line, yes you can use braided line but its best to do it in two sections. Section 1 from the master cylinder to a convenient location on the frame near the calipers. The 2nd flexible needs to be able to move from full lock to full lock without fouling or being stretched. That's how I did mine. P' clips on the first section is good. The key bit is the bracket position, This is mine.
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Post by hutchey on Feb 26, 2017 18:29:58 GMT
Thanks, I went out and checked my frame and there are 2 little tabs that are right near the front on the side of the frame - would these be for the headlights?
One of the builders on here made some really fancy A shaped brackets that were welded onto the side but I can't find the picture.
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Post by jgilbert on Feb 26, 2017 19:06:14 GMT
I used the tabs for my indicators, but no reson that you couldn't use for headlights. My headlights and indicators.
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Post by hutchey on Mar 2, 2017 13:05:07 GMT
I used the tabs for my indicators, but no reson that you couldn't use for headlights. My headlights and indicators. Ah ha, it was your light bars I saw and loved! I want to copy them as they are great and I could weld on before going to powder coaters. How did you manage to bend the bars? Cheers
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Post by hutchey on Mar 6, 2017 11:16:52 GMT
Hi, these fuel drip trays that i keep seeing in build pictures - where are you all letting these drip away to? Obviously not the exhaust but wondered where was best? Oh and I've got a query on the rear wishbones, the outer bushes, the very long bolt that goes through - does that have the metal washers on the outsides? Mine didn't originally but the front ones do.
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Post by mikeeyboy on Mar 6, 2017 17:49:37 GMT
Is the fuel drip tray an actual IVA requirement? I didn't think it was? I wasn't going to put one one mine
My car was missing washers at the rear, I picked up some the size of the fronts and fitted those.
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Post by hutchey on Mar 6, 2017 18:01:44 GMT
Is the fuel drip tray an actual IVA requirement? I didn't think it was? I wasn't going to put one one mine My car was missing washers at the rear, I picked up some the size of the fronts and fitted those. Cheers, with them on there it makes the nuts only just get on the ends.
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Post by miket on Mar 6, 2017 18:31:42 GMT
Re. fuel drip tray, my understanding is that:- 1. IVA says "[the fuel tank]shall also be so fitted as to ... minimise the risk of fire in the event of any leakage of fuel". 2. On one or more occasions in the history of these builds an IVA test picked up on this and asked for a 'tray' (which also then addressed any potential concerns around the tank being near the heat of the exhaust by also being a heat shield). 3. Since that/those occasions people have erred on the side of caution by including one to head off a fail.
IVA section 03A if you want to check your chances! ... good luck either way.
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