Rich's Exocet Build

[gwnwar]

No washers on lower bolt as per OEM set up.. The bolt and nut made with a flat to cover the center metal collar of bushings..
The top uses a lock washer under nut..

[mikeeyboy]

Mar 6, 2017 18:31:42 GMT miket said:

Re. fuel drip tray, my understanding is that:-
1. IVA says "[the fuel tank]shall also be so fitted as to ... minimise the risk of fire in the event of any leakage of fuel".
2. On one or more occasions in the history of these builds an IVA test picked up on this and asked for a 'tray' (which also then addressed any potential concerns around the tank being near the heat of the exhaust by also being a heat shield).
3. Since that/those occasions people have erred on the side of caution by including one to head off a fail.

IVA section 03A if you want to check your chances! ... good luck either way.

Interesting that, I had not heard it and the build guide doesn't mention a tray.

Will have a think on how I could fit one

[hutchey]

Just looking at my exhaust, cat and back box options ready for the mounts to be welded on and I though't i'd check if i'm on the right track:

Pics show where I need to fit Cat to the manifold which is fine but then I am planning on using the MEV new backbox as it looks nicer and my current one has a large hole in it.

So can i run either solid or flexi exhaust pipe from downstream of the cat to the new back box?






AIR BAGS - I have them in my donor and am removing them all including the steering wheel - how can i stop the dash warning light coming on as I suspect that it will once i get the car running before dismantling for powder coating?

[snowbird1]

I don't think the light will come on with the air bag controller removed.

[trident]

Remove the bulb from the dash.

[calibuild]

The lights aren't on in mine, and I've done nothing special. 1999 Miata

[hutchey]

Thanks

[hutchey]

Hello again,

I wonder if someone could help us - we got a bit stuck on silly bits again

1) Does the exhaust need to be suspended on rubber mounts before the back box? Can it be supported with welded U shaped bolt ones?
2) Power steering pipework, I just can't see how to keep this as it was originally without new pipes? We are keeping it as my lad will be doing some track days later on.
3) Main fuse box doesn't seem to have enough room to go back where it was before as it fouls on too much, any ideas where is best?
4) the other wiring that goes to the rear from where it came through the bulkhead on the nearside, how best to run this to the rear?
5) Fuel line - where the connections are at the tank, I think I need to break off the plastic bits and push the hose over the ridge in the pipework to hold the clips and pipe on. BUT if so then the fron does not have the same ability and is only on straight pipe so might come loose?
6) Coolant bottle - can't find a place to put this that isn't in a bad area?
7) The MEV bonnet brackets, are these best welded on so as not to crush the tube when drilling and bolting? I've got to allow for the bonnet edge trim when fitting the brackets and the right height of them for the radiator cap. There's a lot of lee-way here.

tired and disillusioned
Thanks

[timbo]

4) There is enough room on the near side of the transmission tunnel (on the opposite side to where you fixed the brake/fuel lines) for a plastic sheathed cable run for the rear wiring. This also has the advantage that you can easily pull out the wire for the handbrake connector and just put it through a small hole by the handbrake. Sorry haven't got a good pic of it.

Tim

[hutchey]

Thanks Tim

[miket]

Sounds like you had a bad day - I'll try and give some guidance from what I know but there are always many ways to achieve these things and so make your build unique...

1) Exhaust - The only IVA guidance seems to be that it's "secure" - I've not read of this arising as an issue but there are a few threads that include why cars failed IVA so you could see if this crops up in any.
2) Power steering pipework - not sure I understand this one, but feel free to clarify.
3) Main fuse box - usually end up in the area just ahead of the steering wheel and behind the engine bay - but it's wherever works best for your build.
4) Loom - what Tim said.
5) Fuel line - what you describe sounds unusual - can you include a pic or two?
6) Coolant bottle - always an issue: people have shoe-horned the donor one in to engine bay (often on the nearside), used one from another car (I think a Hyundai Getz one was used in a build), or indeed an adapted drinks bottle of suitable robustness.
7) The MEV bonnet brackets - sorry - no experience of these.


Keep asking the Q's, but pics really help.

[hutchey]

We wish to keep the power steering but I mean that the pipes seem to mean that the bottle sits really low down somehow?

Came across yet another problem in that I had to get a new manifold and downpipe (does fit) but the lambda sesnor is too long to screw in to the manifold. Can any shorter one be used? Is there a difference between them?

Main fuse box sits in the engine side and can't get through to the pedal side of the bulkhead and the brake cylinder is in the way on the engine side and the wires aren't long enough to get to the nearside panel.

The fuel line has plastic clips on right at the end by the sender area. Looks like i just break these off and push the new pipe over the ridge and use jubilee clips or similar here.

Does the height of the radiator cap need to be higher than??

I read through 5 entire build threads now and there are a lot of areas that are going to be IVA fails if not treated or amended.
Has anyone tired to IVA with just following the MEV build giude to see what all the fail points are?

Never had all this with my MNR

[ian360]

My two penneth on your questions if its helps.

Agree with Miket on his answers,

Fuel line - I tried to keep the original plastic connectors, but even replacing the internal clip still had fuel going everywhere when under pressure. The feed was ok but return I just jubilee clipped the rubber hose directly onto the metal pipe, no issues since.

MEV brackets - they come pre drilled and just figure out a height to drill through frame and bolt on. Consider the radiator top filler cap, but actually there isn't that much leeway as to where it goes. It will need bending a bit to get the bonnet to fit though see my thread.

Coolant bottle - a drink bottle and holder bolts nicely to the MEV bracket I found!

Hope this helps a bit  

[calibuild]

Apr 4, 2017 20:12:45 GMT hutchey said:

Hello again,

I wonder if someone could help us - we got a bit stuck on silly bits again

1) Does the exhaust need to be suspended on rubber mounts before the back box? Can it be supported with welded U shaped bolt ones?
2) Power steering pipework, I just can't see how to keep this as it was originally without new pipes? We are keeping it as my lad will be doing some track days later on.

Hi using the numbers in your post:

1 - my exhaust uses 1 nylon hanger, and then a U-Shaped bolt with exhaust hanger around the muffler outlet. Eventually want to do this so it looks "prettier"

2 - power steering, you can bend the metal cooling pipe with hand pipe bender tool. Not super easy, but you can do it, then zip tie the pipe to the roll bar. The power steering reservoir can sit on top the lower larger 1.75 diameter tube. Get some hose clamps and a piece of rubber, wrap the rubber around the chassis, put the reservoir on top, then using the hose clamps over the "feet" on each side of the power steering reservoir tighten it all up.

[hutchey]

Hi, I see that some builds have used a simple breather here and not used the link to the air box pipe but what do you do with the end of the pipe or the air box?

There are also 2 plugs into the loom at the air flow meter and at the filter box - what to do with these if they are not used?