Rich's Exocet Build

[hutchey]

Hi, 
I've done a few kits before but all high end market stuff and were all already in parts.
I'm having issues with lack of clear instruction on removing the fuel tank, steering parts, pedals and then how best to remove the body / undo the bolts.

It also looks like I need to replace the rear suspension as the coil is broken so was thinking of after market parts for my new kit.
Any suggestions here would be handy too folks.

Cheers,

Rich

in Kent

[miket]

Hi, It might be excessive for an experienced bod like yourself, but I found (the appropriate one of) Rod Grainger's MX5 "Enthusiast's Workshop Manual Series" to be a boon for dismantling and later for torque settings etc. Got mine 2nd hand on ebay but also on amazon etc.

Oh and it'd be worth putting your donor's spec in your "signature" so people can tailor their advice (eg re. year, 1.6 vs 1.8 etc).

[hutchey]

Fab, thanks.

[pleurotus]

Did you get the build guide www.mevltd.co.uk/assets/documents/mevexocetbuildguide.pdf

I (and my 9yo) just stripped my 1.8 Mk2.5 with that and a Haynes. Label the loom as you take it apart, undo the wheel nuts and hub nuts before you take it off the ground. The rest is really straight forward. with a 10mm +12mm socket and a interior removal tool you can take 95% of it apart.

Then you undo the subframe bolts which are fairly obvious when you come to them. In fact every time you see them give them a good squirt with a penetrating oil. Toolstation PO has worked great for me.

Once you get to the end of the strip you can see what is on the roller skate and what is on the body.

Any questions just ask. Also put UK in your sig.

[hutchey]

Hi, Thanks for the reply, I'm also doing mine with my 9yr old son.
Why is loosening the wheel and hub nuts a good idea?

We have pretty much everything out except the pedals and master cylinders and the loom. (mostly out just needs marking up and the bit underneath checked to see if its on the body or frame.

I was planning on leaving the subframes attached to the "roller skate" and just see if the bolts will undo to lift the body off.

[jgilbert]

The hub nut are notoriously tight. The extra weight of the body helps with resisting the turning moment generated when trying to undo the hub nuts. Wheel nuts should be fine.

[buildercg]

Apr 4, 2016 8:37:57 GMT hutchey said:

Hi, Thanks for the reply, I'm also doing mine with my 9yr old son.
Why is loosening the wheel and hub nuts a good idea?

We have pretty much everything out except the pedals and master cylinders and the loom. (mostly out just needs marking up and the bit underneath checked to see if its on the body or frame.

I was planning on leaving the subframes attached to the "roller skate" and just see if the bolts will undo to lift the body off.

You only need to loosen the hub nuts if you're planning to replace the front hubs, rear bearings, or axles. If you don't loosen them with the wheels on the ground you will have a hard time getting them loose later. 

[hutchey]

Cheers

[pleurotus]

The rear subframe nuts are 19mm and on tight on very long studs. You will either need a deep 1/2" 6pt socket and lots of patience or an angle grinder to cut the long studs off.
I am ready to lift but my promised loan of an engine hoist has not yet materialised so drumming fingers!

Much easier to loosen wheel nuts whilst wheels on the ground - esp if they were last put on by the trainee with an air wrench.

[hutchey]

Went to do some more dismantling at the weekend and got lost in tasks and got nothing done.
More questions that answers each time I go out and look at what needs done next.

I've got power steering - is it best to keep this all intact or remove and if so what do I do with the pipes in and out of the steering rack?

The charcoal filter?? - same thing again, there are pipes heading off to places that I've no idea what to do with.

Steering rack is a bitch to remove and I don't want to damage it.

Can't seem to find all the bolts keeping the body on?

I need to replace my suspension so was wondering if it's easier to remove the top middle suspension nuts whilst the weight of the body is on there or leave that until the body is off and then use spring clamps etc?

Going to need new discs and pads too before it all goes back together so guessing it's best to crack off these before removing body and handbrake?

Handbrake, brakes and fuel pipes underneath from both ends - did you folks just cut them and then replace pipework etc?

I'm going to sit and have a read through some of the build posts on here to see if there are hints and tips and I'm really wanting the body off by the end of this month so that I can order the rest of the kit as sort of a half birthday present to my boy.

Cheers,
Richard

[bigpaul]

Hi Richard, re bolts (my donor was a 1.8 Mk2) the ones I missed were on the front/rear brace, leading from the rear subframe towards underneath the seats, and on the front, level with under the pedals, disconnect the front anti roll bar as well

I have removed my power steering, if you plan to you can just cut the pipes off and either get a blanking kit from Flyin Miata in the states or use molymetal, you arent looking to maintain any pressure in the rack, just stop crap getting in, with the pump/pipes etc removed its quite a weight to save, if you want to properly depower there are a couple of guides on the web www.flyinmiata.com/tech/depower.php

Re Charcoal filter, mine had three pipes connecting near the inlet manifold, have read various threads on connecting a pipe between two and blanking one off but its not very clear, I have just taken mine off for the time being and will have another look at that when I am nearer firing up the engine, if I find a better guide I will let you know

You will need to remove the outer bolts on top of the springs to remove the body

Good luck with the build

Cheers
Paul

[gwnwar]

Body bolted on with 6 bolts rear, 8 bolts front, remove front sway bar from frame, ground wire under exhaust manifold engine to body,
Brake,clutch,fuel hoses up front, E brake from body/tunnel,rubber brake hoses to body to calipers , harness from battery pushed down through hole on floor then leave on the PPF, Drain fuel tank left front bottom for drain.. U joint for steering to rack, coolant system, shock top mounting nuts 2 per shock, If you just remove the top center nut from shock it works too but will extend the length of units so you have to lift it higher, These are just off top of head.. Before you lift body and while you still have e brake loosen the center 4 axle nuts don't remove them just break loose. Make up 4 pieces of 2x4 or pipe 8" long to put between the sub frames and the lower shock mounts x4 this will keep subs off the ground so you can move the skate around..

[buildercg]

Apr 11, 2016 12:32:27 GMT hutchey said:

I need to replace my suspension so was wondering if it's easier to remove the top middle suspension nuts whilst the weight of the body is on there or leave that until the body is off and then use spring clamps etc?

I used this technique. After removing the center nut the weight of the body will keep the car in check until you remove the last bolt holding the body to the cross member then there will be a very sudden upward movement. Also, the last nut may shoot down at the same moment so you need to be wary of a ricochet.

When I started to remove the body one of the top hats went flying into the bushes (fortunately nobody was standing in that direction) so be aware that you're not fully out of the woods until the body is complete off.

If I had to do this again I'd probably rent a spring compressor. It's less exciting.

[miket]

My findings on the charcoal can varied from 'carry over to Exo' (the green option) thru to removing pipes and blanking off at engine and tank, with some choosing middle ground and installing vent/filter at the tank. My reading led me to believe that there's a mechanism in the tank-vent to prevent fuel spilling when inverted and that it just let's air/fumes out, whereas the fuel filler cap lets air in to replace fuel used. In a warm climate expansion of the tank/contents might be an issue with tank venting, but I suspect we won't be troubled with that in the UK.
I removed, capped and binned. I think there was a 3rd pipe from the char can that just vented thru the front subframe on my Mk1.

I don't think you need to specifically 'crack' anything for the brakes ahead of the work on them, unless you're going to press out the pistons from the callipers with the current brake system. I didn't spot that issue coming and was able to blow them out with a cycling track pump.

Handbrake bits need removing carefully for reuse so don't trash those. The brake and fuel lines are normally replaced, but you can in theory use the originals if they're in good nick - I think I read they will re-bend to better routing. Most choose some combo of hard vs flexible fuel lines. There's a whole adventure waiting for you here!

If George didn't cover them above, then there's also the speedo cable and engine earth strap tp undo pre lift. When lifting go slow and keep checking for anything becoming tight or 'sticking'.

And yes definitely read past threads - in my experience everything has at least been encountered and discussed already - the Search facility is pretty good if you bear in mind people using different words and spellings Initially go for the early threads that have shedloads of pages - they're the ones with all the detail and lots of pictures. Oh and it'd be worth adding your donor's year to your Signature - it becomes relevant to wiring diagrams etc and will help people help you.

I'm sure the community can help you get this sorted out in time for his birthday.

[hutchey]

Thanks all, good advice all round.

I've read a few more build threads now and the Hub nuts keep coming up as either a yes to do or no to leave.

What do I lose by not loosening them?