Rich's Exocet Build

[dave]

Drilling the holes for the seats first mean that you won't put rivets where the bolts should go when fitting the floor. I have cut my floor drilled the holes for the seats and will bolt the floor down with these to make it easier to drill for the rivets.

The pedals are pretty straightforward to fit as all the holes for the clutch and brake master cylinders are there and the pedals attach to these, you may need spacers but will be obvious when you come to line everything up.
Which plastic bits do you mean?
Dave

[gwnwar]

Pedal panel comes welded in with holes. you need to cut gas pedal cable hole..
If using stock seats drop them in place mark frame were tracks are don't rivet there..
If using after market seats you could rivet cross rails later or just drill through rivet if you hit them.
add another rivet it needed..

[hutchey]

Thanks gents, I plan to use the after market seats from MEV.
The steering bits I mean are the black plastic parts that seem to bolt onto the firewall panel and possibly protect the column from dirt etc?

[dave]

I'm using the part pictured below but a few others have used the other plastic parts after a little modification (see jgilberts thread)

[hutchey]

Finally managed to borrow a trailer and take the rolling PPF to the blasters. Should get it back early next week.
Got my order placed for a non-powder coated frame so that I can weld on the brackets I need and also ordered the seats with the bonded frame and double vented nose.

As an aside, I'v ordered new fuel hose, acid etch primer, silver black and green paint and getting a deal on some new bushes.
Have in mind to do the bottom of th engine block Black, the alloy mid frame and gearbox Silver and the Diff and subframes Black.
Calipers in Green and the Rocker cover in Green too.

Next steps are to clean and etch the bare bits that will be seen such as the pedal box, column, master cylinder a fresh coat and any other bits that will be seen.

Planning on running my fuel and brake lines down the PPF as per Luke and John's build for simplicity.

Will be replacing the fluids once back from blasters and then taking the rocker cover off and getting that prepped for a dose of etch primer and then paint.

Looking at replacing my suspension with standard MX5 ones to save a lot of aggro on setting up corner weights etc. As it'll just be a fun car and not a track toy, I think this is the best option.

Braking - hope to just refurb the calipers with new seal kits and bleed nipples if required. Thinking of getting some coloured braided hoses made up once I know where and how long I need them in relation to brackets etc.

I need to practice with my welder as it's on gas-less at the minute and It needs to be wired into a 32amp MCB with 6mm cable run to its socket but until I can get this verified by a sparky, I'm in limbo to practice and see if my welder is up to adding brackets to the chassis.

Depending on the condition once back, I may need to get new Track rod ends and roll bar drop links but will see.

I'm going to need a new exhaust in it's entirety and wonder where you suggest going for the best fitting ones? Doesn't have to be stainless steel but I've heard the ebay ones are generally not great fitting!

[sparkyman403]

Hi what is the total load on the plate of the welder ? . 1 kW -1000 watts is near as damit 4.2 amps
So 3000w or 3 kW = 3 x4.2 = 12.6 amps so you can run on 13 amp plug
Hope this helps

[hutchey]

Hi, it says it's max is 32.5A

[sparkyman403]

Hi yes then it will b a 32 amp supply . Modern mcb breakers are very sensitive to over load so you will be best to go for a 32a type C breaker , basically type C breakers will give you a percentage of overload before tripping . A welder has a high start load as the arc is struck and a normal type B breaker will probably trip . Your welder might possibly have a start up load of up to 40-50 amps for a split second type C breakers will cope with this but still trip with a steady load of over 32 amps
Hope this makes it a bit clearer
John

[sparkyman403]

Hi forgot to say if cable run from fuse board to welder socket is fairly short 6 MM twin and Earth will be fine if a long run I would go up to 10 MM to counteract volt drop , also go for a good quality 32a x 3 pin plug and socket

[hutchey]

[hutchey]

Here it is with the first coat of silver on the gearbox and centre section.
Heading off for new bushes hopefully this week then final coat of black at front and rear sections.

[hutchey]

Hi, been a while and now have new bushes all pressed in and the subframes all painted black.
Trouble is it's all still in bits

Question - there are 2 parts (same one on both sides at rear) under the subframe but in line with the diff mount bushes. What are these for? Do I need them? Is there a part number to replace them?
They look like rubber but fit around a thin plate that is held in under by the diff mount bolts with 2x12mm nuts.

Cheers.

[gwnwar]

They are part of the diff support. The center bushing bolt goes through these first then through the bushing and screwed into the sub frame.. The 2 small bolt hold plate with tits to sub.. These only allow the diff to twist a little.. There will be a little space between the bushing and the plate for movement.. Start the small bolts before tightening center bolt.. Center bolt torque 61>72 ftlbs. Small bolts 13>20 ftlbs
Same parts work 90>05 mx5.. If old ones look good all tits in place clean then then rattle can spray and use them..

[hutchey]

Oh, my new diff ones look like this:

[hutchey]

Are these replaceable? 

Mine are shot to bits and look in worse condition than this: