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Post by jwagner on Oct 29, 2015 0:24:31 GMT
I went after the trunk yesterday. The front of our tank is about a quarter inch off the subframe - as low as possible, and the rear is raised by a couple of inches. There's a fuel filter on top of the tank that raises the overall height by about an inch at the front. It's about two inches too high. I'm guessing you'll be too high as well.
I also secured the fuel lines to the front right tank mount. Right where the body mount bracket wants to be. And put a rivnut in the left tank mount for a chassis ground connection. Right where the body mount bracket wants to be. Argh.
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Post by Trenon on Nov 1, 2015 5:52:01 GMT
Decided to mount my engine fuse block in the passenger foot well to clean up under the hood a bit.  |
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Post by Trenon on Nov 3, 2015 7:10:44 GMT
Decided to dust off the 3d printer and see how printed tube clamps would hold. they are 1/2" thick with 35% infill and 2 shell layers. Haven't decided if I will use them or not. I'm leaning towards welded inserts for the front lights.   |
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Post by driver on Nov 3, 2015 19:57:50 GMT
Seems like everyone has these 3d printers? I want one now....
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Post by Trenon on Nov 3, 2015 23:24:23 GMT
I bought one because I have a ton of money in software for my company that is capable of exporting 3D models that I could print. I thought I'd use it for scale models for clients but I only did it once. The reality is the printer is < 3% of my software costs so it wasn't a really big deal.
Every now and then I end up making something somewhat useful. I'm currently in the midst of converting my manual mill into a CNC mill. Betwen the two I should be able to make some neat things.
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Post by Trenon on Nov 4, 2015 6:33:18 GMT
Trying a different clamp mount with recessed areas for the nut  |
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Post by Trenon on Nov 4, 2015 18:15:54 GMT
I started laying out the electrical last night. Hats off to all you gents that took the time to shorten / lengthen all the lines to the proper lengths.
Welding on the chassis, custom drive train, FI, are all within my comfort limits, hacking the harness and soldering it back together makes me a bit nervous.
I would definitely buy a pre-made harness that fit if someone made that up.
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Post by mrryanbaker on Nov 4, 2015 20:32:31 GMT
I started laying out the electrical last night. Hats off to all you gents that took the time to shorten / lengthen all the lines to the proper lengths. Welding on the chassis, custom drive train, FI, are all within my comfort limits, hacking the harness and soldering it back together makes me a bit nervous. I would definitely buy a pre-made harness that fit if someone made that up. Crimp/butt splices. Never solder wire connections in automotive applications. Vibration, temperature, and humidity will cause shorts and breaks that you'll tear your hair out troubleshooting. As you tear the harness down you'll notice that it's all crimps inside there, and no soldering to be found. It's actually way less terrifying once you take all the black tape and loom off, then it just becomes a game of follow the wire. |
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Post by jwagner on Nov 5, 2015 3:11:39 GMT
I have read the "always crimp" advice multiple times but I generally solder my connections. NASA Standard 8739.4 for CRIMPING, INTERCONNECTING CABLES, HARNESSES, AND WIRING documents both soldered and crimped splices for mission applications so it's good enough for my car. Manufacturers use crimp because it's faster and cheaper to assemble in a production environment. That said, crimp is generally acknowledged to be the better method WHEN IT IS DONE CORRECTLY with the right tools, technique and connectors. It's obvious but worth noting that the tools and crimp connectors you're buying at Harbor Freight are not commercial much less avionics/mil grade. If you're going to put a bunch of crimp connections in your car, ante up for a professional grade crimping system and skip the $3.99 crimp pliers.
Solder is fine if you use good practices - the right solder with the right flux, good strain relief, heat shrink, etc..
From an Aircraft Wiring Best Practices Guide I've got in front of me:
The automotive-style splices are HORRIBLE. Don’t use them for anything except filling a dumpster. In the hands of a real pro they can be just fine, but none of the pros I know use them, oddly enough. If you need to make a connection, solder it and cover it with shrink tube. I’ve spent more hours chasing bad Butt Splices and under-crimped Ring Terminals than I’d care to count. Soldering takes a little more time, but once it’s done, it’s done well and completely and that’s the last you’ll ever mess with it.
Edit: Don't solder high current connections - things like starters and other things with large gauge wire.
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Post by Trenon on Nov 5, 2015 3:41:37 GMT
I'm of the same opinion. I've never had a solder connection fail whereas I've had some crimps that didn't. That being said I have the cheap crimp pliers.
The no soldering in cars is most definitely for cost. It's fast and cheap to crimp.
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Post by Trenon on Nov 5, 2015 3:43:11 GMT
I forgot to ask, any recommended crimp pliers?
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Post by dietcoke on Nov 5, 2015 7:15:12 GMT
" Manufacturers use crimp because it's faster and cheaper to assemble in a production environment."
Manufacturers crimp, because it isn't going to become brittle and snap. Solder is not ideal in a lot of connections, especially those subject to vibration and heat/cold shifts.
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Post by Trenon on Nov 5, 2015 8:28:16 GMT
From my experience running a rally car on rough roads in Canada where we get a bit of temperature difference between the seasons solder connections have been reliable whereas crimped connections have failed. Both mine and oem crimped connections have failed.
I'm sure there is a argument for why each is superior but I have yet to have a solder fail.
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Post by Trenon on Nov 6, 2015 6:25:22 GMT
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Post by zeitgeist on Nov 6, 2015 6:55:20 GMT
Looks good Trenon. Are the flex lines mounted far enough away from the tire once it is mounted and at full lock throughout the suspension travel ? Is the mount in a similar location to the stock mounting point ? I don't have my car close to look but I would have thought keeping the hard mount point close to axle centerline would provide plenty of slack and clear the tire/wheel throughout suspension travel and turning lock to lock. It looks like you plan to assemble partially then disassemble for powder coat or paint. Is that the case?
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I wanted a to mount the flex lines as solid as possible so I welded a clip to the tube behind the wheels on either side. The line has enough length for full turn to turn throughout the suspension travel with a bit of flex in the line but not enough to rub on anything.
