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Post by Trenon on Oct 16, 2015 23:38:00 GMT
That is really helpful thanks. I was thinking I was going to have to cut the top tab off of the top radiator mount but no one was mentioning that they did that.
Any chance I could get a measurement of the center of the bottom bolt on the rad mount to the bottom of the chassis?
Your chassis is the same color I am thinking of going, white on black.
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Post by Trenon on Oct 17, 2015 19:55:29 GMT
I just realized I never really laid out what my build plan was.
My donor was a 94 with a full FM II hydra system that I put in last winter. It has vmaxx coilvers, FM swaybars, Clutch happy meal with lightened fly wheel and full poly bushings. I did a PS delete and the stock brake upgrade kit to slotted rotors and better pads. I have picked up the FM big flex fuel kit and big spark kit to install in the exocet as well. Pretty much have the FM catalog in my car. I picked up all SS braided lines for everything as well.
The plan was to build the exocet this winter, drive it for the summer and build the engine next year. The compression tests weren't great prior to me installing the turbo kit so I don't imagine they are any better now. I was planning on getting a bunch of engine parts painted up this winter for presentation and replacing some leaky seals. I did the timing belt, water pump, and a bunch of seals last winter although some seem to be leaking again.
Last week I came across a built 1.9L for sale with a 99 head, begi intake and 70mm throttle body. I am a weak man. Guess I don't have to worry about cleaning up my donor engine. As an added bonus it is all painted up nice so that will save me a few $$ right? Right guys? Someone back me up here.
It should be arriving this weekend. I've never had a built engine in any of my cars. Should be fun.
In build news I got the rad mounted, much much higher than I thought I should thanks steadfast the extra pics. Started gutting some of the wiring harnesses...I see that as being the longest part of the build.
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Post by Trenon on Oct 18, 2015 7:14:34 GMT
Does anyone have a couple pictures of how they routed the exomotive braided SS brake and clutch lines? The driver side front line seems really long. I might have to go the long way around the brake cylinder.
I'm trying to decide if I want to mount the rear line on the chassis or the subframe. Any guidance?
I have NA parking brake cables. I'm assuming everyone runs them over the PPF? seems like a decent kink in the cable anyone have any issues doing it this way?
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Post by steadfast on Oct 18, 2015 17:12:30 GMT
I mounted my gas and brake like onto the PPF, this keeps them up off the ground (and protected). The driver side (and maybe even the passenger) front will have to be trimmed.
As for the parking brake cable, I only used one (driver side) which was the easiest to route.
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Post by Trenon on Oct 18, 2015 18:22:02 GMT
The exomotive SS brake line is already a fixed length for the driver side, I can't shorten it which is why I'm wondering how people routed it. Seems like its about 8" longer than I would have made it. The only thing I can think to do is loop it around the far side of the brake booster but my turbo is sitting there and I don't want to cook it.
So you didn't use the passenger parking brake cable? I don't know that I'd trust a single wheel parking brake.
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Post by zeitgeist on Oct 18, 2015 21:22:33 GMT
Trenon, I was just over to Jon in Detroit's place to check out his build. Very nice build and he used the Exomotive SS lines. He looped his around the Master cyl and/or brake booster to take up the extra slack. Maybe he can chime in with details or I'll see if I have a picture of it to help.
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Post by Trenon on Oct 19, 2015 6:09:52 GMT
So the 1.9L arrived today. I started stripping my 94 motor to equip the 1.9L.  I have a few questions. Does anyone know how to wire the 3 pin (ford i think) TPS sensor to the 4 pin miata one? I have a hydra EMS if that matters at all. The second question is for the oil supply to my turbo. My 94 had a port that I just used. The new motor doesn't have it. The pics below show where it should be. Has anyone ever drilled and tapped it? Or is there a place on the driver side I can pull oil from?   |
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Post by einy on Oct 19, 2015 11:02:57 GMT
Regarding your question on the parking brake cables ... I figured out a reasonable run 'on the job'. Once you get everything else run, including the exhaust, play around with the cable run. I ran mine before I installed my exhaust system, and ended up having to figure out a better way as the passenger side cable would have touched the exhaust side. 15 minutes of pondering was all it took. In short, you should be able to figure something out. Big, heavy duty zip ties will be your friend for this run!
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Post by Trenon on Oct 20, 2015 18:18:19 GMT
einy any pics of how you decided to do it?
Found out FM sells a reroute kit for the turbo oil supply line. Will just pick that up.
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Post by Trenon on Oct 21, 2015 5:24:37 GMT
Found out the assembled FM header and turbo assembly must be put on before the engine is in the chassis, or the engine has to be lifted and rotated a bit to wedge it in.
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Post by einy on Oct 21, 2015 10:46:05 GMT
I'll get some pics in the next couple of days, as I need to spend a couple hours under the car this weekend making sure everything is tight before upcoming Ohio State Patrol inspection.
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Post by Trenon on Oct 22, 2015 6:19:20 GMT
I have the 1.9L in the car now. I ended up pulling a freeze plug to mount the thermostat housing back on the front and it was full of rust. I was not impressed. I spent the last day googling how to get rust out of the engine and decided a CLR bath was in order. I do not have a rad flush system or an engine that runs so I improvised. Chunk of 1 1/4" hose, 5/16 hose, couple fittings, a 15$ tile saw pump and a couple litres of CLR. I looped the heater core connections and bypassed my oil cooler so the only place stuff could get stuck was in my 5/16 hoses that I was going to take off afterwards anyways. I ran the CLR through the engine (diluted) for about 4 hours just recirculating. Then I flushed the engine with 30 gallons of hot water (on demand water heaters in the garage are awesome). That's when the water was no longer smelling like CLR or looking rusty. I then blasted compressed air through the engine for about 5 min until no more water droplets were coming out. During the flush I rotated the water pump by hand and then with a drill as well. Took a bunch of turbo / rad clogging crud out. Definately happy I took time to flush it.     |
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Post by Trenon on Oct 26, 2015 18:08:44 GMT
I got around to putting in the fuel system today. I have the FM big flex fuel kit. Here is how I decided to route it.  To clear the FPR I had to use 2.25" spacers in the front of the tank and 2" spacers in the rear  I don't like lines bouncing around so I made some brackets to hold the braided lines tight.   There is at least a 1/4" gap between everything, nothing rubs or touches. I'll probably wrap the stainless to make sure nothing gets scuffed up by it. |
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Post by dietcoke on Oct 28, 2015 8:06:34 GMT
Will the tank cover fit with that much spacer?
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Post by Trenon on Oct 28, 2015 16:58:33 GMT
It has to be around 2" to clear the sub frame, I've only added 1/4" to clear the fpr Gage.
I haven't checked fitment of the trunk yet though.
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