Zeitgeist's Mid-west OH race chassis #170 build

[zeitgeist]

Thanks for the info Jon and Einy. I really would like to leave as much on the rollerskate as possible but I need to figure out how to unbolt the last 2 bolts on the front side of the fuel tank. Access is the issue. There are only 4 total bolts holding the fuel tank to the tub correct?

If I can't leave the tank with the rollerskate how is the fuel drained with no power that is safe and easy? I haven't found the drain plug on the tank I thought was on the driver side front of the tank. I suppose I can disconnect a line and put a fuel can under the car and drain it that way but I don't know how much fuel will come out that way.

[jon]

I didn't touch the drain plug (it is small and hard to find). The plug looked a little rusted and I thought it best to leave it.

I got a cheap pump at harbor freight. After removing the cover on the top of the tank that holds the fuel pump, I pumped all the gas out. I did this while the car was still together.

Frankly, I don't recall how the tank was mounted in the miata, but yes, I think there only 4 mounting points.

[einy]

I tried (probably the same) HF pump - didn't work for me. Good old fashioned siphon using the pump's tubing did instead. I pulled the (access panel accessible!) fuel pump out to get the tubing into the tank. I did not touch the bottom drain plug.

Four bolts are all I had holding the tank to the body. Cannot recall how I accesses them, but figured it out somehow - likely with a combo of extensions and u-joints that live in my socket set.

Sorry .... that's all I can recall at this point.

[zeitgeist]

Thanks for the clarification gents. I got everything done to separate the body and rollerskate tomorrow. Removed 4 nuts and 2 bots on the rear subframe and 4 bolts and 4 nuts on the front subframe. I also removed the 2 forward bolts from the rear subframe under brace where it connects to the tub. The front and rear subframes are resting on jackstands. All lines seem to be loose or clear of the body and attachments. I disconnected the handbrake cable from both the rear calipers and the single interior cable from the handbrake lever and pushed it through the center tunnel hole. I finally got the last 2 bolts holding the fuel tank to the body undone. I used a short 3/8 drive socket and no extension and just reached up in the minimal space. They were a bear to break loose but once loose they came off easily.

I attempted to remove the windshield in one piece as I was going to either sell it or try and use it temporarily in the race chassis to pass inspection in OH. That all came to an end when pushing up the windshield with my back thinking the large area would spread the pressure out better. I cut the butle on both sides and was somewhat loose with hand pressure. Obviously it wasn't loose enough. It cracked in the middle with one big cracking pop. Disappointing but not the end of the world.

I stopped by Harbor Freight and bought some chain with hooks, nylon webbing 2" wide and a 2 ton folding engine crane as well as some 1500 lb rated caribiner type couplers. Unfortunately when I got home and set all the parts out I found there was no hardware included but two hydraulic jack assemblies. I called and will return tomorrow to get a complete kit either just the hardware or a complete kit.

3 1/2-4 hours and it feels like I just removed the subframe bolts. I did clean up nicely, talk to my neighbors who keep stopping by to see the progress and cleared my front yard of leaves. I hope tomorrows separation goes smoothly.

[gwnwar]

Did you remove the ground strap from left rear engine to body.. ground to rear of PPF.. push harness from battery through hole in floor.. speedo cable from trans..

[zeitgeist]

I did get the ground at the rear of the engine to body and push the batt cables through the hole in the body. No speedo cable. I believe it is electronic sensor on 99's. I don't recall if there was a ground for the PPF and rear chassis but it worked out. Separation complete.








I did it slightly different from others I read about here. I left the entire brake system intact and didn't disconnect any lines for the brake or clutch hydraulic systems. I plan to replace the clutch master cylinder,slave cylinder and go with the s/s flex line that connects them. I may replace the brake master cylinder depending on how it cleans up. The brake system including ABS worked fine before teardown so I only expected to replace pads,rotors,fluid and flex lines to freshen things up and be more track ready.

The separation went pretty smoothly for just a 1 person operation and the finagling of the brake and clutch lines. The only issue I ran into was a hook like attachment on the body that caught in a hole on the drivers side front of the fuel tank. It started to unbalance the tub until I located it and pryed it free. After that it went up and clear of everything on the rollerskate. My wife helped move it from over-top of the rollerskate as I was too nervous to move the dangling few hundred pounds so precariously balanced.

Once the tub was down next to the rollerskate I took some more pictures and brushed off the rollskate. I would like to roll it outside and pressure wash it before teardown. Alas no pressure washer so that is something I'm on the lookout for. The VIN plate on the transmission is clean and clear and matches the chassis and dash plates. I looked for the engine VIN but forgot where it is located to photograph.

After pulling the front and rear bumper braces,P/S cooler line running behind the front bumper and every plug,clip and fastener I could find on the tub I swept out the garage and called it a day. 3 more hours to add to the time list.

[zeitgeist]

Einy or anyone in OH who has started the registration process. I plan to scrap the tub now that it is stripped If I can't sell it. Do scrap yards require the title with the tub to scrap in OH like some in MI do? If so what does that effect in the registration process if anything? If I sell the tub I assume the buyer may want the title so it is a concern either way. I did title and register the Miata donor as well as insure it all in OH before the teardown. I drove it around 4-5 months seeing how everything worked.

[einy]

They didn't ask for anything when mine was scrapped. I did have it cut into three big pieces, not that I think that made any difference to the yard. I had my donor's title transferred to my name before I ever started disassembly like you did.  I did take pics of the firewall VIN before I sent that to the scrap yard.

Thinking about my registration issues here, I really wonder if using an already titled donor car's firewall section that contains the VIN stamped into it as the 'cornerstone' part of the Exocet chassis would have allowed me to just retain the Miata registration.  From what I have learned very recently, this is somewhat common in the hot rod world.  But I digress.

[zeitgeist]

Thanks for the detailed response and ideas. I may try and talk to the scrap yard closest to me and see what they want or require. If I can cut the VIN off before scrapping I may do so. I wonder if trying to register it as a Miata would make any difference with windshield and bumpers? The windshield for me isn't a big deal as I plan on having one but the bumpers are what I would prefer to avoid.

By the way I checked the VIN tags on the engine and transmission and they match the VIN on all the body parts, the tub and the dash so no replacement parts. I took lots of pictures of all the VINs while disassembling it and once separated but with the tub or rollerskate in the background.

[einy]

It would make a difference. Just go in with your Miata title to the BMV, get your plate, and skip the inspection bs all together! It is a highly modified Miata at that point, with a Miata VIN on the firewall to prove it. (In theory, anyway ...)

I highly doubt any local constable would cite you for no bumper or windshield if you have a legit reg. Worst case you get a "fix it ticket". Heck, we could initially register ours out of state, then transfer the reg to OH without any state patrol inspection. Just a VIN plate inspection at the local DMV like any other vehicle out of state purchase. Funny thing is the state patrol guy "joked" to me that would be easier.

[zeitgeist]

I'm preparing a plan to prep the rollerskate. Below is my plan in order with a few questions for those that have been through the process or if I miss any important steps.

Remove P/S and A/C components and brackets from engine. (Does this require replacing any bracket bolts for oil issues?)
Remove exhaust system after manifold
Pressure wash rollerskate after ensuring all openings for fluids or electrics are sealed
Separate engine from front subframe
clean,inspect and prime and paint front subframe then install new performance motor mounts
remove bushings from control arms, clean,inspect and install poly bushings and zerk fittings for each bushing
Replace any seals or gaskets on motor (Timing belt service was done shortly before purchase but I will inspect the work to ensure it is OK)
Clean and paint motor
clean and paint transmission
Replace transmission gasket and or front and rear seals as needed
Rebuild shifter assembly and add fluid to turret
Install FM Happy Meal with flywheel
Pull diff from rear subframe
Remove rear control arm bushings
Clean, inspect,prime and paint control arms and install poly bushings and zerk fittings for each bushing
Clean,prime and paint diff after draining fluid
Clean,inspect prime and paint rear subframe
Install diff with new poly bushings
Re-assemble rear suspension
Remove front brake disk dust shields


I plan to put on new rotors,pads and SS flex lines after mounting the Exocet chassis to prevent surface rust or oil getting on rotors

I would like to remove or greatly reduce the complexity of the evaporation control system. I've read a few "How to s" for eliminating the small from charcoal canister near the engine on the right side but haven't found any info on eliminating or using a smaller charcoal canister for the large rear charcoal canister on the right rear near the fuel filter in front of the fuel tank. Does anyone have any links or how to info on this? I would like to eliminate it but don't want to have fuel odors in the garage when it's parked or a check engine light and fault codes. I also am not familiar with the single line returnless system to know if it would cause any issues with pressure or vacuum in the fuel tank or work the fuel pump harder? Any info here is especially needed.

Anything on the rollerskate I may be forgetting to address?

[jon]

If the 99+ have the charcoal canister on the rear, I would consider leaving it on your Exocet. I think Flyin Miata did that.

For my NA, I removed the front canister (no rear one on that gen), because it would have been a big hassle to run another line to the back.

[zeitgeist]

I removed the P/S and A/C units as well as both brackets for them from the engine. FYI the lower bolt holding the P/S pump is not accessible with a wrench or socket as there is a boss/spacer that blocks access. I used vice grips and a lot of effort to wiggle and rotate it until it pulled off from the bracket. It pulls forward. The job would have been pretty easy with a slide hammer or puller but I had neither. Once that was off I removed the bracket and then spent a few hours pressure washing the rollerskate and garage floor and apron. I used some canned air and towels to dry it so nothing freezes or rusts further before I take it apart further. +2-3 hours but no exact time on the car since plenty was spent on the garage floor.

[gwnwar]

You should have just hit the spacer to the back with a hammer just to clear bolt head easier then fighting with it..Did you replace the bolt that goes in from the front of the engine. needs to be a little bit shorter then you removed..

[zeitgeist]

I tried hammering the spacer in both directions with no movement. It was really in there. I probably spent 5-7 minutes of hard pulling and twisting to get it out after hammering away on it and trying to turn the bracket and bolt head at the same time to get it loose enough to remove.

I didn't replace the bolt yet for the front of the bracket that needs to be shorter. I just put the stock bolt back in to keep debris out for now. I also pulled the gooseneck from under the P/S bracket for access to it and to clean the block under it and the pipe that goes back to the heater core hose.

Looking at the front small and large rear charcoal canisters I may try and swap the small one and place it at the rear and then eliminate the front canister all together.