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Post by jwagner on Oct 9, 2015 15:54:08 GMT
Your labeling looks good and will save you a lot of time later. Make sure you label the unused connections too.
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Post by zeitgeist on Oct 9, 2015 16:10:59 GMT
Thanks gents. I got the donor for $3200. More than I wanted to spend and the car is quite nice. However I wanted ABS brakes and the newer system 3 channel. I also had a 99 10AE before I tracked so I had some understanding of the regular car. 99's have the good head and compression and the single fuel line so I spent a little more up front. Everything on the car works and works well. jwagner-The car is loaded with most options like cruise,Bose stereo,ABS,etc.. and so far I haven't found any unused connectors but I will keep that in mind. Thanks for the tip.Any connections you can think of to look for?
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Post by zeitgeist on Oct 9, 2015 18:55:54 GMT
Quick question I thought was asked before but I can't find it. Other than the hub nuts are there any other fasteners that should be loosened before placing the car on jack stands?
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Post by buildercg on Oct 9, 2015 20:44:16 GMT
Quick question I thought was asked before but I can't find it. Other than the hub nuts are there any other fasteners that should be loosened before placing the car on jack stands? I just finished my teardown of my '92 donor about 2 weeks ago. Hub nuts are really the only fastener that requires the tires be on the ground but I found that it was helpful - due to ease of access - to have the car on the ground when taking out the steering column. Everything else and you can have the car on stands. When I separated the chassis from the roller I put the car on jackstands almost all the way up and the tires back on to allow the roller to drop. This made most of the movement go down instead of up (I didn't remove the shocks and springs first). Don't forget to block the suspension so you can roll the skate around. |
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Post by zeitgeist on Oct 10, 2015 9:28:46 GMT
Thanks buildercg. I will do the hub bolts and steering column while it is still together and on the ground. I like the safety of leaving it on the ground as long as possible. Did you end up putting the roller on jack stands after the body was off or just left the roller on the ground? I plan or expect to do the subframe and suspension strip and bushing replacement as the donor has 194K miles on it so I thought it would be easier to put the roller on jack stands up high.
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Post by buildercg on Oct 16, 2015 16:52:52 GMT
Thanks buildercg. I will do the hub bolts and steering column while it is still together and on the ground. I like the safety of leaving it on the ground as long as possible. Did you end up putting the roller on jack stands after the body was off or just left the roller on the ground? I plan or expect to do the subframe and suspension strip and bushing replacement as the donor has 194K miles on it so I thought it would be easier to put the roller on jack stands up high. I had the entire car on jackstands until I had all of the main nuts and bolts holding the chassis and roller together loosened and several of them off (the ones in the middle front and back; on my '92 that was 6 bolts/nuts removed) - and everything else off the chassid too. I removed the center ones with wheels off as I would have to be underneath the car if the wheels were on and that didn't feel safe. Once I was ready for separation I put wheels and tires back on and lowered the car to the ground. Jackstands were used to keep the chassis up once the front and rear were separated and I then used my engine hoist to pickup and move the shell. Make sure you have your lifting points firmly attached. My shell fell about 8 inches (back onto the roller) during my initial lift as one of the hooks slipped out. |
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Post by zeitgeist on Nov 2, 2015 1:21:38 GMT
Brief update. I was able to get a few hours this weekend to work on the donor.
3 hours 10/31 which wasn't that scary but there was some blood. I finished removing the dash thanks to those for the tips on removing the HVAC controls and radio. Pulling the cable ends from their connections made it easy. there were alot more connections behind the dash and in the drivers footwell/dash area than I thought there would be. Everything is labled and disconnected except the pedal assembly for brake and throttle and steering column. They are all unbolted but I need to disconnect the column from the rack u joint and pull them out.
11/01 I did 2 hours and labled everything under the hood. All connections labeled and disconnected from the firewall, both inner fender well tops. Airbox and hose out,radiator drained and pulled with fans,Cruise control and cables pulled along with hood latch cable. I pulled the wiper motor, power steering reservior and both radiator overflow and washer fluid bottles. Hood prop rod and hood latch assemblies removed.
I disconnected the wiring from the various sensors or switches that have vacuum hoses attached to them on the top of the passenger side inner fender right near the charcoal canister. Does anyone have a good diagram and/or flow chart in how these 3 switches/sensors work? What is needed or not to have a working system with MIL check engine light illuminated?
On the drivers side top of the inner fender right near the airbox intake tube there are 2 electrical devices mounted vertically to a plastic panel. They have rubber covers that extend down partially over the wires where they connect. What are these devices? Also the forward device had a wire fall out while disconnecting them from the plastic panel they were bolted to. It looks heavily corroded on the end.
I'm waiting for pictures to download as I am backing everything up at multiple locations.
Next time I hope to get the rest of the details finished to prepare for body separation. I need to pull the interior and engine wiring harnesses. Any tips are appreciated here as it looks like a tough go pulling any part of the harness through drivers side passenger side or center holes in the firewall. Does it only go one way or is there a preferred way to pull the harness?
After that I will drop the exhaust, shock top mounts and work on the subframe bolts. I need to break loose the hub/axle nuts and disconnect the handbrake before getting the car on jack-stands which I wanted to do but ran out of time.
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Post by jon on Nov 2, 2015 1:36:45 GMT
Pulling the harness through was indeed hard. It has to pull through to the interior on both sides of the car. Essentially the harness makes a big U shape. Just be careful no connectors snag and you pull a wire out the back of one.
Also, start soaking some of those bolts in PB blaster now!
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Post by gwnwar on Nov 2, 2015 5:11:07 GMT
The connectors in the rubber boot are the fan and AC relays.. check this click on 1999 wiring.. www.mellens.net/mazda/ |
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Post by zeitgeist on Nov 2, 2015 17:26:36 GMT
The connectors in the rubber boot are the fan and AC relays.. check this click on 1999 wiring.. www.mellens.net/mazda/ Thanks gwnwar that helps. Mine has the blue with yellow wire as the corroded wire that came out of the plug housing on the condenser fan relay. I assume that since I won't be using A/C on the Exocet these can be eliminated and there is some kind of work around or re-wiring so that both fans work without the relays in place or that the fans can be set up to work with only 1 relay to run both? |
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Post by einy on Nov 2, 2015 21:18:54 GMT
Or, just leave the a/c side fan off completely to allow unhindered airflow ....
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Post by jwagner on Nov 2, 2015 21:47:41 GMT
Or, just leave the a/c side fan off completely to allow unhindered airflow .... That's what we did. I have yet to see the single fan run, even after a twenty minute track session. Our bodywork isn't on yet, but the car runs a lot cooler than a stock Miata. |
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Post by zeitgeist on Nov 16, 2015 1:49:09 GMT
Made some progress today after watching 71 F-1 parade laps. I got the wiring harness totally marked and removed from the car. Sterring column and pedal assemblies out and stored. That means the trunk and interior are gutted to painted metal with only the odd plastic insert left attached to the tub. Front swaybar disconnected from the tub and all the hoses for the P/S disconnected. I removed the A/C condensor and lines. Removed all 8 shock top mount nuts.
I spent some time clearing the parts not to be reused putting them away in the shed to start making some more room for tub/PPF separation.
I then started under the car. Disconnected the exhaust hangers and handbrake cable to tub mounts. I then worked on the charcoal canister area. This was the only area rusty on the car. Several fasteners broke when attempting to loosen them. Cover around charcoal canister disconnected and pulled away. Fuel filter mount came part nicely. I also disconnected the mounts for the brake and fuel lines to tub so they can stay connected to the rear subframe. I have 1 more bolt to remove to have the lines that run from the rear to the front along the underside tub and they will be loose and hanging. I was able to remove all the bolts from the gas tank EXCEPT the front 2 which are at a slight angle and access seems to be blocked by the front of the rear subframe and diff mounts. Do these come out before separating the tub and rollerskate or maybe after?
At the rear it looks like the only thing holding the rear subframe to the tub are the 6 bolts/nuts (3 each side) Has anyone attempted leaving the rear brake line connected to the flex lines and rear sub frame and just letting it hang when unfastened from the tub where it runs forward to the engine bay?
Tomorrow it is under the car again but this time at the front. Once the shock tops at the front are undone is it just the 8 fasteners holding the front subframe to the tub that need to be undone? I disconnected the brake lines from the plastic clips holding them to the tub.
Rear subframe to tub fasteners sprayed with penetrating oil.
Not too bad I guess for 4 hours I guess.
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Post by jon on Nov 16, 2015 12:42:57 GMT
I ended up taking the tank off once the body was seperated.
I pumped all the old gas out and it was easy to drop with the body suspended in the air.
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Post by einy on Nov 16, 2015 14:10:30 GMT
I did the opposite of Jon. I unbolted the fuel / brake line mounting clips from the body, as well as the fuel tank. All stayed with the rollerskate when I lifted the body off. Sounds like either way is viable.
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