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Post by OzExoNinja on Sept 19, 2015 5:11:44 GMT
Hi Kiwicanfly, no such restrictions here for club sprint or hill climb, but I'm sure it would be a problem going further than those events.
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Post by Stiggy on Sept 19, 2015 8:11:15 GMT
This is missing off every mevabusa.... ?? Good point! Fortunately not a real problem to put right as any completed cars can have the braces welded from underneath and paint can be repaired with a rattle can. Imagine a rear impact without the bracing, it offers very little resistance to deformation. During development measurements were taken of flexing with and without a cross tube between the two bends in the engine bay. FEA was not part of our brief and was not carried out. Imagine the flexing over sustained track use, fatigue may well set in but it maybe that for occasional road use and low miles that it is not going to cause problems. The prototype car was a cut and shut tR1ke but trikes do not tend to suffer too much from torsional rigidity issues. It is crucial that owners set these high performance machines up correctly. Roll axis very important and anti dive should be considered due to the weight distribution. I do not have this info unfortunately.
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Post by james13009 on Sept 19, 2015 8:27:32 GMT
Thanks stiggy visually from the picture above makes sense. Interested in seeing it implemented.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Sept 19, 2015 9:51:28 GMT
Hi Kiwicanfly, no such restrictions here for club sprint or hill climb, but I'm sure it would be a problem going further than those events. I am not so sure, according to this www.cams.com.au/motor-sport/regulations/cams-manual/general-requirements Schedule J states you need a roll bar or cage unless you are in an event whereby you stay within legal road speeds or you are in club events in a closed vehicle. Our regs seem pretty close to ours and I got caught out thinking I was ok at club level but the rules change as soon as you turn up in a open car. Of course if you are only going to do basic events, Motorkhana or keep to the speed limit then you will have no problems. ........... Bet you need a cage to take passengers as well. Not telling you your rules but I would double check, tell me if I'm interfering though
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Post by OzExoNinja on Sept 19, 2015 10:59:19 GMT
Absolutely not mate, feedback is very important, good or bad. And you look to be quite correct, things have moved on me since my last build.... Not good actually, looks like I'm going to making some big changes, grrrr.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Sept 19, 2015 22:01:59 GMT
Had to throw something in otherwise, given your earlier comment about my build length, you might have yours finished before me I was about one week before heading to the paint shop and decided to give the car a good shakedown by entering a local event. Had such a good time I decided to see what was required to race at this level and found that I needed a change of roll bar minimum, then decided to go to a cage after the local scrutineer told me he would refuse to pick my head up if I went through a five wire fence Didn't want a permanent structure so designed it to be removable. Had to have a full structural analysis as it didn't conform to the standard design. However I am well happy with it. mevowners.proboards.com/thread/6067/rocket-roll-cage?page=2
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Post by OzExoNinja on Sept 24, 2015 5:25:53 GMT
Ok guys, I need some help, unfortunately I have had to give up on Paul at Exo, never returns emails and is almost as hard to get onto via the phone. My purchase from Exo has become an extremely frustrating process and I'm done asking him, which I am sure is how he likes to do things, where eventually people stop asking him. He owes me 400 of your UK dollars for custom drive shafts that were never sent, as well as several other parts that were not packed into the shipment. Mostly I can get around the short supplied parts but the major concern is the brake master cylinders. I do not have, nor can I find any information on the type/model/spec of the recommended type and will now have to source them myself. Any help would be appreciated.
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Post by kiwicanfly on Sept 24, 2015 5:45:07 GMT
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Post by mawdo81 on Sept 24, 2015 5:49:53 GMT
Don't give up, that's when they win.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2015 6:03:03 GMT
If it's like my Triabusa you don't have a pedal box like the rocket. The cylinders are bolted to the chassis and to the pedal. I know they get them from rally design so they might be worth getting in touch with. They are a good bunch. Pretty sure kev (slugshot) will be able to help as he should have some and will be able to read the part numbers off them. My car at a my dads (mid house move at the mo) so if you have no luck by the weekend I'll get the part number off mine
Cheers
Adam
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2015 6:09:47 GMT
Looking through my pics I found this. Seems kiwi was right. 0.7 wilwood The clutch master cylinder is your rear break cylinder from the bike Cheers Adam
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Post by OzExoNinja on Sept 24, 2015 6:39:37 GMT
Thanks all, it's good know there's help out there. Thanks Adam, atd exactly what I needed, will start the search for them. My ZX12 engine uses a cable clutch so I will be looking to adapt to a cable system rather than the hydraulic version there.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 24, 2015 7:20:14 GMT
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Post by slugshot on Sept 24, 2015 9:32:08 GMT
Ive not bought any m/cyls for mine yet but think ill go for the integral cyl type this time.
Cabletec make some very strong cables, they do 5 and 6 mm versions, they have threaded ends to fit either rose joints or a clevis. Not cheap but nothing quality ever is.
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Post by OzExoNinja on Sept 24, 2015 12:47:47 GMT
Thanks Adam / Kevin, will look up Cabletech once I figure out exactly what I need. Also thanks to whomever spoke to Paul at Exo, it has certainly got his attention and hopefully I can now get back on track with SVE and start being more positive about my experience.
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