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Post by Shane on Jun 8, 2016 16:03:46 GMT
Good to know miket! When the first bolts broke off in the knuckle (the 3 you need to remove to fit the front stays) i didnt have the patience to sit their trying to remove them, if im honest, i threw my dummy out the pram, got on the phone and ordered a new one of ebay straight away lol The way the lower ball joint snapped it needed a new one. I think i will try the extractors next time if im feeling a little more patient
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Post by p5curly on Jun 8, 2016 18:53:38 GMT
You could drill and re tap them the 3 bolts that's what I had to do
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Post by bignik on Jun 9, 2016 5:14:24 GMT
I wouldn't even bother with the extractors, I'd go with p5curly and drill and tap them out. The extractors are prone to snap off!
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Post by jwagner on Jun 9, 2016 16:54:28 GMT
I wouldn't even bother with the extractors, I'd go with p5curly and drill and tap them out. The extractors are prone to snap off! That's what I had to do as well. Takes a while, but not a big deal. Home Depot (US) has a drill/tap pair for $8.
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Post by Shane on Jun 9, 2016 22:20:44 GMT
Duelly noted!
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Post by Shane on Jun 18, 2016 13:19:23 GMT
Finally had a break in the weather and got the front stays on today, well designed and fit perfect! I had an issue with a few of the castle nuts on the bushes being seized and having got them off I dont think they are any good to put back on. I have a bag of NYLOC nuts that fit perfect, can I use these rather than having to source new castle nuts?
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Post by gwnwar on Jun 18, 2016 17:04:20 GMT
I don't remember any castle nuts on the control arm bushings. are you talking about the control arms?? or the ball joints if ball joints use castle nuts and cotter/split pins..
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Post by Shane on Jun 18, 2016 19:47:47 GMT
Yeah sorry ball joints, are Castle nuts a must? Or can I get away with nyloc and maybe a little pu adhesive?
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Post by h20boynz on Jun 18, 2016 21:03:31 GMT
Yeah sorry ball joints, are Castle nuts a must? Or can I get away with nyloc and maybe a little pu adhesive? Definately use castle nuts and pins.
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Post by Trenon on Jun 18, 2016 21:08:02 GMT
If you are in a pinch and don't care about your ball joints use permanent locktite. Just keep in mind you are going to have to cut them off afterwards.
I had a rally car where we stripped one of the castle nuts the day of a rally. The locktite held on for a couple rally's until the ball joint was done and needed to be replaced, had to cut it out with a grinder.
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Post by Shane on Jun 18, 2016 21:20:20 GMT
Thanks guys, kind of reinforced what I already knew was the right answer
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trident
Senior
Improvise, Adapt and Overcome
Posts: 629
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Post by trident on Jun 19, 2016 9:16:54 GMT
I hear what tenon is saying but your not in a fix at the moment ..... your building a car to pass the IVA test and to impress the examiner.... For IVA over here the safest option is the original castle nut with new split pins. If you want to pass the IVA test then read the manual and check to see what is allowed etc. Nyloc nuts will probably be OK but check the manual and then check it again...
I can not express enough how important it is to know what the manual says when it comes to IVA as the examiner is going to ask you questions etc and it really pays to be able to know roughly what the manual says.
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Post by Shane on Jun 19, 2016 13:49:06 GMT
Thanks Trident
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Post by Shane on Jul 9, 2016 6:55:59 GMT
Managed to get the Pedal Assembly and Steering column on yesterday! I found the servo to be VERY tight against the chassis frame and without cutting the spacers of the pedal and fitting servo side you cant actually get the servo in, luckily i had to cut them off any way as the steering column wouldn't have lined up/fit. Apart from messing around with the servo for a while, it all went pretty smoothly Next job on the list is to fit the throttle cable I think.
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Post by exoRy on Jul 9, 2016 9:16:15 GMT
nice work Shane, you're catching me up quick! I see you had a donor with steering wheel airbags too, have you sourced an IVA compliant one for the test yet? would be good to see what you were thinking of
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