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Post by franknbeans on Aug 29, 2015 14:45:32 GMT
What type of oil pan baffles are people using? I've seen a couple people put these on and i also read up on a whole dry sump system.
I'll be building my Busa for 75% track use.
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Post by james13009 on Aug 29, 2015 15:41:50 GMT
I'm looking into this now dry sumps the best but the cost is phenomenal in my eyes
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Post by james13009 on Aug 29, 2015 15:42:22 GMT
I'm considering a baffel, and an accusump
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Post by Deleted on Aug 29, 2015 16:01:49 GMT
Depends on usage. Myself, more road use. Haven't even had it on the track yet. I just baffled it with a plate. Everything seems ok. If like you say you are track using it a lot then a dry sump is a must and I think others will agree with this. If I decided to start tracking mine it's the first Mod I would do.
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Post by slugshot on Aug 29, 2015 19:10:25 GMT
I dug deep and forked out for the full dry sump setup from SBD, I just couldn't risk doing trackdays with just a baffle plate, all it takes is oil starvation one time and the damage is done, so its not about percentage of time you use it on the track. There are those that have done trackdays with just the baffle and had no problem, when I hear these stories I just wonder how quick they're driving and does the track have long corners that give the oil the chance to stop pumping.
If you're planning on using it for 75% track then I would definitely go down the dry sump and the electric water pump route.
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Post by franknbeans on Aug 30, 2015 15:04:31 GMT
Thanks for the info.... I think the dry sump is the way to go.. But after spending $28k USD on the kit.. money is getting thin.
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Post by slugshot on Aug 30, 2015 16:01:57 GMT
Lol, tell me about it....the problem is that if you don't and it goes pop, the cost of one engine rebuild makes you wish you had.
I don't know the cost of a busa motor is in the US but here they're well over £1000 used.
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Post by franknbeans on Aug 31, 2015 3:15:12 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Aug 31, 2015 8:21:51 GMT
I think what a few have said is if you are taking it on the track and driving hard then a dry sump kit is the way to go. Expensive but would save you a fortune in the long run. There are alternatives but fit at your own risk..... Could work out a hell of a lot more.
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Post by franknbeans on Sept 2, 2015 14:42:37 GMT
Yeah, Understand...
Now to start searching dry sump kits available in the US.
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Post by franknbeans on Sept 11, 2015 20:06:23 GMT
Another problem that we found. On the Hyabusa motor there is a housing containing the clutch slave cylinder mounted right next to the chain sprocket. Since we remove the jam nut from the sprocket shaft and replace it with a gear that is engaged by the electric high torque reverse motor, the housing will not fit any more.
We were able to modify the housing so it will fit alongside the reverse gear so that the slave cylinder will work fine. However there is no way to retain the speedometer sensor - there is just no room. That means that the instrument cluster will not read speed. One solution is to get a separate GPS speedo.
What was some of your solutions to this issue guys?
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Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2015 20:15:57 GMT
Only solution I know if is not to fit the reverse I can't see how you will be able to fit the standard sensor. I have the digi dash with its own speed sensor on the from Hub. With the extra gear for the reverse leaves very little room for a Sensor. Sorry this ain't much help
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Post by franknbeans on Sept 11, 2015 20:38:01 GMT
Yeah, I think the reverse is a must. May look into a digi dash for it... Last time I checked that was another $1,000 USD. ugh
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Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2015 20:43:25 GMT
If it's any comfort I went well over my budget too
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Post by slugshot on Sept 12, 2015 8:14:00 GMT
I know it's too late now but rather than cutting the casing to clear the reverse gear, would it not be possible to mount the casing on spacers to regain the clearance. The clutch pushrod and the gear change shaft would need extending but I don't see any other reason why it wouldn't work.
As for digi dashes, there are plenty to choose from that take a signal from a wheel or pro shaft and no need to spend $$$.
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