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Post by jon on Jun 3, 2015 18:07:09 GMT
The quote was for a system that bolts right on to where the stock downpipe ends. He told me that the metal core cat is narrow and *should* fit. I am a little nervous about that. Still deciding my options.
That quote also included shipping, FYI.
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Post by JIDiesel on Jun 3, 2015 22:27:26 GMT
Stock 1.6 header and downpipe clear perfectly fine with new tunnel design. How much did they quote you for a downpipe back system? I have to pick a direction on that soon. Thank you! I appreciate the clarification. Do you know if any of the other headers work like racing beat? I would assume most of those follow the same path as the stock header, but I want to make sure before I spend the cash. $800 for the dual tip exhaust with metal core catalytic converter. Racing Beat or any 4 into 1 type header does not clear the steering column without a lot of custom modification, Look for a triple Y header config. Hope that helps. Also most mid B-pipe with or without catalytic will hit the tunnel either middle or end of tunnel. |
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Post by jon on Jun 4, 2015 3:24:27 GMT
Ok, thanks for the heads up. I'll stick with my stock header for the time being.
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Post by Luke Anker on Jun 4, 2015 22:20:49 GMT
Arg SOOOO jealous!!! I want mine :/ Im #142...so i have a bit of time to wait
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Post by Luke Anker on Jun 4, 2015 22:21:12 GMT
Arg SOOOO jealous!!! I want mine :/ Im #142...so i have a bit of time to wait
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Post by steadfast on Jun 4, 2015 23:17:30 GMT
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Post by einy on Jun 5, 2015 11:24:31 GMT
steadfast ... do you have the "new" tunnel design, or the older design? I have the new design (s/n 110), and from pics I see, there is significantly less room on the bottom side for exhaust as the trade-off for more room up top for seats. Jon's is also a new tunnel design chassis.
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Post by steadfast on Jun 5, 2015 16:32:50 GMT
Good point, I have the old/original tunnel design.
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Post by jon on Jun 5, 2015 18:05:58 GMT
Also, I have a 1.6L engine, so that header won't work.
I'll stick with the stock one, it fits everything!
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Post by jon on Jun 5, 2015 18:14:09 GMT
Some progress: Bought this at HF to push bushings out. It works, but is still hard.  Did the three step process of POR15 on the rear subframe. Matches the powdercoat used on the arms well.  Took my engine to the engine builder. He seems extremely knowledgeable. Looking forward to having a brand new motor. Here is the grossness that i dropped off:  |
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Post by gwnwar on Jun 5, 2015 22:53:28 GMT
That is a short crank engine.. Have you checked the crank key way, key and hub for damage.. Are you keeping the short crank or changing to a long nose one?? Are you going forced inducting.. What problems were you haveing with the engine to have it rebuilt.. For the price of a full rebuild you can get a good 1.8..
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Post by jon on Jun 5, 2015 23:17:55 GMT
Yes, short nose engine. The keyway was fine the last time I had it apart 5 years ago. I loctite'd it in place to keep it that way. I expect it to still be fine.
The builder is going to explore a few options to permanently fix the crank nose so I'll never have to worry. He has some ideas, once it is apart we will decide. We think it cheaper than finding another big nose or long nose crank for it.
Yeah, I could get a junkyard 1.8, but then I would have a junkyard motor. I am trying to make my car 'like new' in as many ways as practical.
The 1.6 that I have runs, but is a 25 year old motor and burns an appropriate amount of oil for its age. Turbo is an option in the future, so we plan to put better rods in while the engine is apart.
I know that this work is excessive, I could find a running motor that would likely last me forever (or keep using my own), but having a 100% fresh motor appeals to me.
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Post by greg on Jun 6, 2015 0:15:34 GMT
New tunnel chassis need NA headers.  Curious if the NA version of that header will clear the shaft on an NB donor. |
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Post by jon on Jun 6, 2015 22:16:49 GMT
Added grease fittings to the poly bushings.  |
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Post by jon on Jun 15, 2015 14:44:08 GMT
Did some painting on the half shafts.  Reassembled the rear subframe and diff.  I took apart the front suspension this weekend. Generally went well except for the camber bolts. I put some torque on one bolt and the mount fell apart Now I need a new subframe. I think I am dealing with one of the more rusted Miata donors out there.  |
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