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Post by greg on Dec 9, 2014 18:43:29 GMT
Score! Found a post on a Harley forum where a guy bought these and explained how to hook them up.
I was correct in my guess about the colors of the low and high beam but it turns out, this unit with two bulbs is actually a day time running light with a separate headlight. The actual headlight bulb is a two filament bulb with a high and low beam.
One set of the green and brown wires goes directly to the day time bulb (which I'm thinking I could use as a fog light going to its own separate switch). The other two join up and go into the head light bulb. The extra wiring will make it easy to join two units together.
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Post by JIDiesel on Dec 9, 2014 21:08:31 GMT
Headlights came today. They are bigger than I thought. Not sure if I like that. They look nice other wise. The only issue is I can't find a wiring diagram for them anywhere. The model number is TL007-BS. If they follow the rules of some other generic headlight setup that bikes have, my best guess is: Brown is battery Green is ground (earth) White is high beam Blue is low beam There are 3x 2 pin connectors with green and brown wires coming in/out so my guess is that's power and ground. There's another 2 pin connector with a blue and white so that's probably high/low beam but then there is an individual blue wire too so I'm a bit baffled.... That light is for a BMW motorcycle. should have a B-35 dual filament and a BA-20 daytime running light in it. High/ low and DRL shared ground wires.
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Post by JIDiesel on Dec 9, 2014 21:10:14 GMT
note to self, read to the bottom of forum before posting, lol
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Post by greg on Dec 9, 2014 21:21:46 GMT
Haha! Thank you for backing up my findings. Just noticed something else that bothers me a bit. There's no grommet for the wiring to shield the housing from letting water get in. Not that this thing will see rain. Just concerned about leaving it parked outside on a humid sunset then condensation coating everything.
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Post by JIDiesel on Dec 9, 2014 22:06:07 GMT
Haha! Thank you for backing up my findings. Just noticed something else that bothers me a bit. There's no grommet for the wiring to shield the housing from letting water get in. Not that this thing will see rain. Just concerned about leaving it parked outside on a humid sunset then condensation coating everything. Most of the motorcycle headlights are sealed at the bulb to the mirror glass, not at the back of the housing. Same thing goes for the Dominator lights sold by Exomotive. You should be fine on the condensation issue.
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Post by greg on Dec 13, 2014 21:38:20 GMT
FM little big brake kit and V-Maxx suspension came earlier this week. I was in the process of taking pics when my cell randomly died... These are all I got. Got the rear brake lines routed too but no pics. Will get some tomorrow. These are the FM sways. The front one won't be installed till I get the Exocet chassis. I have to get adjustable sway bar end links. These won't be installed till I can get the car assembled and on the ground to set ride height. Ideally, you don't want the end links to hold any weight of the arms. This is the only picture I got of the coil over... Really wanted to do an in depth write up about how to assemble and "tune" these but alas, faulty cell battery. They reuse the stock miata strut caps and interestingly I found out the front are identical to the rears. More to come on this later. The other thing I started was powder coating the pedal assemblies. Back at it tomorrow.
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Post by greg on Dec 14, 2014 18:28:23 GMT
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Post by jwagner on Dec 14, 2014 19:09:18 GMT
That brake block tee on the rear subframe looks like the same Goodridge part I tried to use (NA subframe though). Once you drop the frame on, the rear bulkhead is really close to the forward facing connection so you're either going to have make a really tight 90 degree, move it back, or figure something else out.
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Post by JIDiesel on Dec 14, 2014 19:10:10 GMT
Your pedals look like mine. Here they are installed.
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Dec 14, 2014 19:33:21 GMT
Pretty sure the yellow connector is the airbag.
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Post by greg on Dec 14, 2014 19:41:47 GMT
That brake block tee on the rear subframe looks like the same Goodridge part I tried to use (NA subframe though). Once you drop the frame on, the rear bulkhead is really close to the forward facing connection so you're either going to have make a really tight 90 degree, move it back, or figure something else out. Came with the Flyin Miata brake kit. Thanks for the heads up!
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Post by greg on Dec 14, 2014 19:42:27 GMT
Pretty sure the yellow connector is the airbag. That's what I thought. Was confused why there'd be only 2 pins for the air bag, but 4 pins for the horn.
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Post by JIDiesel on Dec 14, 2014 20:52:56 GMT
Pretty sure the yellow connector is the airbag. That's what I thought. Was confused why there'd be only 2 pins for the air bag, but 4 pins for the horn. The yellow is the air bag, the horn in the factory wheel has two contact points, one left and one right, the wires are series/ parallel in the steering wheel its self. hope that helps. I think I still have the diagram if you need it. Or look at page 19 in the pdf link. guides.exomotive.com/hc/en-us/article_attachments/200034178/2000_System_Wiring_Diagrams.pdf
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Post by greg on Dec 14, 2014 21:31:41 GMT
Got it. All the horn button does is ground the relay. Should be easy to setup with the NRG wheel adaptor.
Thank you!
Now to figure out how to get the key lock cylinder out of the socket.
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Post by JIDiesel on Dec 14, 2014 23:30:45 GMT
Got it. All the horn button does is ground the relay. Should be easy to setup with the NRG wheel adaptor. Thank you! Now to figure out how to get the key lock cylinder out of the socket. I used the NRG hub adapter also. I just did away with the guts of the clock spring just using the lower housing and installing a contact spring. Trimmed the cover with a dremel tool and the spring wire is inserted into the contact. the horn grounds against the steering column. hope this helps. John
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