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Post by greg on Sept 4, 2015 22:16:46 GMT
So the FM front sway bar was making slight contact with the upper control arm. I couldn't adjust the links to be any shorter so I decided to swap the front and rear links. Doing this brought on another issue with the struts and this mounting bracket (which we don't need for the Exocet)  So I cut it off.  Even still, on the loosest setting, the links come close. Ill test drive later to see if it rubs. If it does, I will have to keep the bar on the tighter setting.   The rear bar sits more level with the ground with the longer links too.  Can't help but wonder if this is the way the links are supposed to be and I either misread something or if they were mislabeled from FM. It's been so long I can't remember.... |
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Post by boileralum on Sept 4, 2015 23:13:11 GMT
FYI, that's the looser setting. The inner hole is the stiffer setting.
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Post by greg on Sept 4, 2015 23:32:24 GMT
FYI, that's the looser setting. The inner hole is the stiffer setting. LOL yes I know. |
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Post by boileralum on Sept 5, 2015 1:01:43 GMT
 When are you going to autocross or track it? |
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Post by greg on Sept 5, 2015 5:22:45 GMT
There's an event in Dover in a couple weeks I'm hoping to be ready for. It all depends on how long it takes to get inspected.
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Post by dietcoke on Sept 7, 2015 12:16:17 GMT
Why not put the link on the other side of the bar? Hard to see the angle, might not reach?
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Post by greg on Sept 8, 2015 14:14:41 GMT
Why not put the link on the other side of the bar? Hard to see the angle, might not reach? Might work. I will try it to see how badly it angles them. |
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Post by thestig on Sept 12, 2015 3:18:13 GMT
Greg, I'm cleaning up wiring and was wondering where you purchased the mesh wire wrap you used on your exocet and what size you ended up going with?
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Post by greg on Sept 12, 2015 12:47:05 GMT
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Post by jwagner on Sept 13, 2015 4:05:52 GMT
Looks like there are a bunch of people using this thread as a build reference. Earlier in the thread you show a 90 degree hose for the fuel filler. Don't suppose you remember what that is?
thanks, Jim
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Post by greg on Sept 13, 2015 12:55:15 GMT
Looks like there are a bunch of people using this thread as a build reference. Earlier in the thread you show a 90 degree hose for the fuel filler. Don't suppose you remember what that is? thanks, Jim It's not the best setup. It's a generic 2" ID hose I found at Autozone. It barely fit over the cut off from the stock piece that houses the cap. The nozzle out of the tank is only 1.75" so I have the 2" hose squeeze over a 1.75" hose like a gasket. There's also a stainless 1.75" 45 deg pipe (used for making exhaust headers) inside that bumps into the gas tank nozzle to bend the 2" a few inches towards the passenger side so it fits up nicely with the body work and not kink. To be honest, I wish I would have gotten this instead of ghetto rigging this setup to use the stock filler. Wasn't worth the $$ saved. www.ebay.com/itm/311399061520 Steadfast had the best idea with mounting the filer on the passenger side and using a quality flex hose. |
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Post by greg on Sept 18, 2015 0:02:08 GMT
So I've been driving the car around a bit to work out the bugs. First off was the wiring tray cover rattling. Fixed this with some thin, sticky back rubber strips.   Next, the stupid Chinese turn signal light broke mysteriously.  Replaced that with some non-smoked American made ones.     Couple more issues to fix. The drivers fender comes up and touches the headlight. Scratched up the paint real good. There's also a small oil leaking coming out of the stock oil pressure sender. One of the few original pieces left from the donor... Debating installing a real oil pressure gauge in the cluster now. Also been getting the run around between the title company and the inspection company as to which place I'm supposed to start with to get the car registered.... If I'm reading the laws correct, I'm pretty sure it gets inspected before registration but alas, neither company seems to have registered one of these before so they're dumb founded.... That's alright though, gotta fix this oil leak before it'll pass anyway. |
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Post by jgilbert on Sept 18, 2015 6:42:03 GMT
Greg, lovely looking car, wheels work really well as does the colour and rear spoiler. May have to think about a rear spoiler as my winter upgrade.
Are you going to install a front grill, would hate to see you nice intercooler damaged by a stone.
Very jealous of your wheels. Great work!
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Post by greg on Sept 18, 2015 12:50:21 GMT
Thanks John!
No plans for a grill. It restricts airflow. I also need to be able to reach thru the opening to undo the connectors for the lights to remove the body.
I did create a cardboard template for some radiator ducting though. More on that later.
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Post by greg on Sept 24, 2015 0:39:59 GMT
Had a small oil leak from the stock oil pressure sensor. Tried to fix it with some JB weld but it didn't last. Decided to upgrade to a real gauge. Figured night as well get a coolant and boost gauge as well. Rather than getting 3 separate gauges, I researched some multi digital display gauges. Found this: www.ebay.com/itm/371419296461%20Did some research and got some mixed reviews. For the price figured it was worth a shot. It's mounted to the roll bar by this: www.ebay.com/itm/181495946657%20Installing it was easy. The Begi thermostat spacer has a port. I need a 3/8 to 1/8 NPT adapter for the coolant sensor. Luckily this style sensor fits perfect under the ignition coil pack.  The boost gauge map sensor is mounted on the plenum and has its own source separate from the ECU. The oil pressure sensor swapped right in place with the stock switch. Wiring was also simple. One constant source which came from the rear defroster fuse. One switched source which came from the radio fuse. Then a ground. There is a wire for dimming the gauge when the lights are on but I decided not to use it for now. Fits nicely down in this space. My hands don't block it while holding the steering wheel, it's protected by the windshield and it doesn't stand out at all when viewing from the outside the car.     There is a huge discrepancy between the stock coolant temp gauge and this one. The new gauge will read 180degF while the stock one is only half way warmed up..... Glad I upgraded. My fans aren't working though... They were working before so I wonder what's up. Will test them manually with my laptop connected to the hydra tomorrow. During my shake down runs, I found a serious issue. The front fenders flex so much they were touching the bottom of the lights going over large bumps in a turn.  Fixed this by flipping the headlight mounts. Liked them better the other way but this way there's no contact.  Really don't like how high they stick up but it'll have to do.   |
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