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Post by gwnwar on Aug 28, 2015 14:51:27 GMT
Greg.. In your pic of the right rear upright the top bolt securing it to the upper control arm is way to short..
You should have at least 2 whole threads through the nut..
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Post by greg on Aug 28, 2015 16:34:25 GMT
Greg.. In your pic of the right rear upright the top bolt securing it to the upper control arm is way to short.. You should have at least 2 whole threads through the nut.. Good eye! Thats the stock bolt and note that the upper arm isn't even attached. The bolt and nut are just sitting in there so they don't get lost while I was working on the stays. It's all back together now and torqued to 32ft lbs per the manual.  |
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Post by greg on Aug 29, 2015 12:05:25 GMT
Fender mounting 101. All 4 fenders are identical so there's no need to worry about which one goes where. There's also two ways you can orient them. This is the easy way.  This is the hard way (which looks better IMHO)   The hard way requires you to drill two holes for the stays to fit thru. Spent a couple days pondering the best idea for this. First off I centered the fender on the mounts. With 13" between the stays I came up with 7 7/8" between the stay and the fender end to mark center. Then I masked off the insides and outsides with tape to make my marks. I found a few oval grommets and ordered them. Will post them later when they get here but for starters, I made two 3/4" holes then connected them with a grinder.   Decided to try rubber back stainless 1/2" P clips as they seemed like the simplest mounting solution. I also used 1.5" long 1/4x20 stainless screws with nylon locking stainless nuts to bolt thru the fenders. Used the grommets from China and they suck. The rubber is so hard they're more like plastic. The grommets that came from Exomotive are much nicer but they don't give you any for the fenders.    Note: these aren't torqued down yet. I was testing to see if they would touch the tires (which they don't. When torqued they sit higher than the 1/2" fender stay itself.   Here's where you find out that not all the stays are quite the same. I used the bar handle from my jack to fine tune their straightness and make sure there was enough clearance for the wheels. In the end, they turned out good.   Was surprised at how tight the fenders fit with only the clips. Gave them some good tugs and the only give was from the brackets flexing. Time will tell but if need be I can always add more P-clips and even some epoxy. One wheel down, 3 more to go! |
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Post by greg on Sept 3, 2015 10:26:00 GMT
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Post by einy on Sept 3, 2015 11:29:36 GMT
Awesome work, Greg!
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Post by jon on Sept 3, 2015 14:02:34 GMT
Looks dope
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Post by Exoteric on Sept 3, 2015 14:11:18 GMT
It looks great!! Congrats on finishing it up, hope you're enjoying it!!
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 3, 2015 19:28:05 GMT
A ceramic coating on the muffler would really finish off the rear.. Love your build thread and finished car..
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Post by gwnwar on Sept 3, 2015 19:43:12 GMT
Greg.. Without going back through your whole build thread to see electric tray.. Will there be any problem with water if caught in the rain or washing with water coming off the wind screen or rear of hood getting into the electric tray..
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Post by greg on Sept 3, 2015 20:06:26 GMT
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Post by greg on Sept 3, 2015 20:09:37 GMT
A ceramic coating on the muffler would really finish off the rear.. Love your build thread and finished car.. I'm looking into a silver ceramic coat. I've got satin black but I want something to contrast with the wheels. Greg.. Without going back through your whole build thread to see electric tray.. Will there be any problem with water if caught in the rain or washing with water coming off the wind screen or rear of hood getting into the electric tray.. The tray needs a rubber seal of some sort as its rattling a bit. That aside, I'm not worried about water getting into it because the hood covers it up completely. The windshield doesn't sit agains the bottom either. There's a 1/2" gap at least. I did that on purpose so that airflow doesn't fold the shield down. Got the idea from Jilbert I think. It was someone else's UK build on this forum. |
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Post by jwagner on Sept 3, 2015 21:17:24 GMT
Greg, Back on page 36 it looks like you cut the nose back to end in front of the bottom of the radiator since the bottom of the radiator sits about an inch and a half below the nose. Do I have that right? We're going to tackle bodywork pretty soon.
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Post by greg on Sept 3, 2015 21:20:49 GMT
Greg, Back on page 36 it looks like you cut the nose back to end in front of the bottom of the radiator since the bottom of the radiator sits about an inch and a half below the nose. Do I have that right? We're going to tackle bodywork pretty soon. Yes. This gave me more room for the IC pipes too. |
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Post by jgilbert on Sept 3, 2015 21:28:55 GMT
Greg, just catching up on recent posts. I agree will others your car looks very very nice. Colour combo works really well. You must be very proud. Well Done!
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Post by einy on Sept 4, 2015 21:21:11 GMT
Greg, Back on page 36 it looks like you cut the nose back to end in front of the bottom of the radiator since the bottom of the radiator sits about an inch and a half below the nose. Do I have that right? We're going to tackle bodywork pretty soon. Did the same also, Jim. No apparent loss of front glass rigidity as a result. |
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