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Post by einy on Aug 26, 2015 12:55:13 GMT
Greg - not that I have fiberglass experience myself, but couldn't you just patch the holes that you no longer want, fill / sand / repaint your current rear cover instead of buying (and waiting for) a new one?
John
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Post by greg on Aug 26, 2015 17:08:49 GMT
Greg - not that I have fiberglass experience myself, but couldn't you just patch the holes that you no longer want, fill / sand / repaint your current rear cover instead of buying (and waiting for) a new one? John I don't have the skills or tools for that. |
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Post by greg on Aug 27, 2015 4:12:56 GMT
Figured out a solution to the gas tank cover. Started off with removing the heat shield. From the bottom of the tank. This gave me a bit more room than I thought.  Next I stuck on some left over thermo TEC insulation onto the bottom of the tank and swapped out the front mounts with 1.75" 5/16 stainless bolts and nuts.  Kept the rear mounts on the spacers. Hopefully this will help some with the high speed cornering fuel cut out some guys are experiencing when the tank is less than half full.  The tank cover was almost a perfect fit at this point. Decided to enlarge the front holes a bit and cover the excess with these rubber washers.  Final detail was finagling the fuel filler to fit just right.  Remember this was the stock piece.    To be honest. The cost savings wasn't worth it. Wish I would have just gotten something else and powder coated it. Would have looked nicer. But at least this fits and functions. Front mounting bolts with the rubber washers. Doesn't look bad at all.  Dat A$$!  Continued on the next post. |
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Post by greg on Aug 27, 2015 4:25:10 GMT
Finally the part I've been procrastinating till the very end. Drilling the holes for the rear fender mount. Start off by grinding a flat service to drill on.  This is why I put this off. Didn't want to mess up my coating. Wish I would have known way back when I did the bearings that the fender mounts themselves don't come predrilled like I assumed. Otherwise I would have just done this in the drill press and gotten the holes more precise and powder coated.  The holes are spaced about 3/4" apart and are only a 1/4" big. Using 1.5" long 1/4x20 bolts to mount the mounts. Will press out the holes and powder coat these brackets tomorrow if there's time at work. Note I had to remove the coil overs and the upper mounting bolt for the knuckle to drill these holes. Luckily this metal is softer than the steel used on the chassis so drilling out the holes at high speed took only seconds. Hope to finish up these tomorrow and mount the fenders. Then the car will be completely done! |
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Post by einy on Aug 27, 2015 11:07:58 GMT
Oh, fudge .... I drilled / tapped two holes way back when I had hubs out of the donor car, but on the surface that is 90 degrees to where the pic above shows them. Well, that sucks.
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Post by greg on Aug 27, 2015 13:24:10 GMT
That sucks!
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Post by jon on Aug 27, 2015 15:20:41 GMT
Oh, fudge .... I drilled / tapped two holes way back when I had hubs out of the donor car, but on the surface that is 90 degrees to where the pic above shows them. Well, that sucks. Maybe you could use some angle iron and make an adapter. |
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Post by einy on Aug 27, 2015 15:54:19 GMT
Thinking about the best way to undo my mess-up now. I may try to just drill the holes in the correct direction, and hope there is enough strength in that boss to still hold the fender stay. Bummer is I had machined the surface I did drill and tap flat, and was feeling good about having a solid surface to register the fender stay tab on. If I were paying attention, I would have had the same result on the correct surface.
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Post by gwnwar on Aug 27, 2015 16:46:27 GMT
Filling the holes with JB Weld might help some..
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Post by einy on Aug 27, 2015 18:22:28 GMT
Actually thinking of drilling the cross holes, threading in and fixing with epoxy some (relatively soft steel) studs into the incorrect holes, then re-drilling the cross holes to go through the studs. That probably restores most of the otherwise lost strength due to my mistake.
Either way, looks like the hubs are coming back off of the car as I'd really like to at least file - if not mill - a flat surface for the rear fender stay to register against.
While I'm "here" - what bolt does the front fender stay get attached to? Mine came undrilled from Exomotive, so also wondering what size hole to put in that stay's tab. |
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Post by greg on Aug 27, 2015 19:19:13 GMT
Brake caliper bolt.
I honestly can't recall what hole I punched into the stays... Might have been a 7/16ths. Oh, drill your holes as close to the bottom of the stay as possible. This will give it the max height away from the wheel.
Edit: no sorry it was an 11/16ths hole.
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Post by einy on Aug 27, 2015 21:48:37 GMT
Thanks!!
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Post by greg on Aug 28, 2015 2:17:03 GMT
Finally all the fender stays are mounted.   Front ones are spaced 17" apart and the rears are only 14". When I punched the holes for the rear most bracket, it forced the angle to be more straight up than off towards the rear like I wanted. No biggie though. Started cutting the holes in the fenders but realized I took my air cutter back to work the other day and forgot to bring it back. Will post pics when that's all finished. |
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Post by einy on Aug 28, 2015 10:49:15 GMT
Greg - looking at the fender stays that I have, it's easy to see which one goes to the rear of the rear wheels, and which goes to the former splash guard holes on the front wheels, but the remaining four stays look identical from what I can tell. Are these remaining four stays interchangeable, front to rear? Or does something identify the remaining four stays as either front or rear end parts? (Hope this makes sense!)
Your upcoming pics will be HUGELY appreciated!
John
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Post by greg on Aug 28, 2015 13:39:57 GMT
Well the remaining 4 aren't all identical. They're two pair being identical. The rods are all identical but the mounting plates are mirrored.
I punched the hole in the same spot on all 4 though.
If you need more pics or details, let me know!
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