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Post by JIDiesel on Feb 22, 2015 16:27:10 GMT
Looking forward to seeing the finished windshield. I am trying to fit the bodywork today. wish me luck.
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Post by greg on Feb 23, 2015 0:37:07 GMT
Rear brake lines and prop valve are done. I decided not to run the lines along the bottom of the tunnel as the new design of the trans tunnel has extra bends in it which was the reason I needed 80+ inches of line. Instead I ran a single 60" line from the master, to the top of the engine bay, down to the trans tunnel where the last mounting point is located. The line then goes straight to the prop valve then straight to the rear of the car. I will add a couple more mounts inside the tunnel after I figure out where to source more of the plastic OEM style ones. Then it was time to mount the prop valve. I used 2" long stainless bolts with a half inch nylon spacer between the tunnel and the prop valve. To cut the hole I used a titanium step up bit ($20 but worth it) and thanks to Improbable Construct, I got a nice grommet for the prop valve too. The rear line is a single piece 41" line. Sorry for the bad picture. I'll get a better one later. Looks good! One last piece is mounting the rear parking brake cables. FM sends you NC cables with their little big brake kit. They have these clips on them. Some clever placement of a couple riv nuts and they are cleanly mounted. I need to get a couple washers but you see the idea. They mount perfectly on the square tubes and thankfully I didn't have to lower the rear subframe to drill the holes! Now to source a grommet for the 1.25" holes for the cables in the tunnel.
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Post by greg on Feb 23, 2015 0:41:39 GMT
Looking forward to seeing the finished windshield. I am trying to fit the bodywork today. wish me luck. Something tells me I will be separating the chassis from the roller skate for that part of the project.
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Post by JIDiesel on Feb 23, 2015 0:50:54 GMT
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Post by JIDiesel on Feb 23, 2015 0:53:21 GMT
Looking forward to seeing the finished windshield. I am trying to fit the bodywork today. wish me luck. Something tells me I will be separating the chassis from the roller skate for that part of the project. I have considered a few times separating my chassis from the frame but I have already had it aligned by Wes at Treasure Coast Miata. So I have worked around the issues. Good Luck.
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Post by greg on Feb 23, 2015 1:39:05 GMT
ID is too large. It's going to be some funky size grommet which probably doesn't exist. The cables are only 1/4" diameter.
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Post by gwnwar on Feb 23, 2015 5:40:27 GMT
Why not get a rubber plug for the hole in body and cut hole to size for cable in it..
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Post by JIDiesel on Feb 23, 2015 11:12:04 GMT
ID is too large. It's going to be some funky size grommet which probably doesn't exist. The cables are only 1/4" diameter. What is the largest size section of the cable? It is larger than 1/4" correct. that is the size you will need to go from.
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Post by greg on Feb 23, 2015 12:30:08 GMT
Why not get a rubber plug for the hole in body and cut hole to size for cable in it.. Good idea!
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Feb 23, 2015 14:46:03 GMT
I had a bunch of grommets left over from my laser build. The ones I used are 1/2" id 3/4" od. I had to drill my own holes so I could make the od whatever I wanted. 1/2" was still a bit of a struggle to get to go over the cable parts. Look on McMaster-Car. They have tons of grommet sizes searchable by panel thickness, id, and od.
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Post by greg on Feb 27, 2015 3:05:37 GMT
Not too much to report. Took this week off to save $$ on propane (spending a fortune keeping the garage heated) and to focus on real life stuff. Hit the gym hard and tomorrow I'm going out with friends. Today was the only time I could get the donor Miata ready for its new owner. $1100 for the clean title rust free shell. I paid $3000 for it. The Mazdaspeed master cylinder came too. Now I can pivot the fitting in any spot I need. It was $20 for it used on eBay. Much cheaper than even the braided line replacement. Debating if I want to use this brake line for the clutch. The concern is having it be too close to the turbo/exhaust.
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Warren van Nus
Junior
Live every day as if you are Tony Stark
Posts: 83
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Post by Warren van Nus on Feb 27, 2015 5:45:27 GMT
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Post by gl21133 on Feb 27, 2015 15:23:26 GMT
Interesting that you included the title with the shell. How are you going to title the Exocet?
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Post by greg on Feb 27, 2015 16:04:45 GMT
PA just needs a manufacture statement of origin and its registered as a dune buggy. As long as it passes inspection, they don't care what's under the hood.
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Post by greg on Feb 27, 2015 16:46:28 GMT
Hmm... I wonder how other states would handle "imported" Exocets from PA that are already registered and titled here. .
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