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Post by steadfast on Feb 20, 2015 17:01:50 GMT
Seriously, that color blows my mind. Looking great, coming along very quickly! Thanks Geoff! I still find myself staring at it in awe. Now with the grey panels it looks better in person than it ever did in my imagination. Oh! I got the windshield in today. Had an idea for a simple and cheap setup you might like. Grey panels.... pictures please Windshield..... pictures please Now that I'm road legal, I'm thinking about doing something like this: bauerltd.com/new-wind-screens-brackets/
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Post by papabear on Feb 20, 2015 17:10:24 GMT
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Post by greg on Feb 21, 2015 0:00:16 GMT
Well I thought it was a good idea. Till I messed it up. Start off with a sheet of clear acrylic. I got 3mm 2'x4' sheet. More than enough to get a 10x"44" piece (Pa requires at least a 9" tall windshield) We got a full wood shop at work and the table saw gave me perfect cuts. Then I marked my design an used the band saw to cut it out. A hole saw gave me a nice radius to mark the lower corners. I found these large windshield clamps on eBay. They're for an ATV windshield. Cost was $50 shipped for 4. Here's where I messed up. I marked and cut the holes and just as I got to the last hole, the bit caught and pulled up the acrylic which cracked it. Good thing I have enough to make another one although I wish I would have gotten 5mm or even 10mm thick acrylic. The 3mm is fine mounted up like this but its fragile.
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Post by JIDiesel on Feb 21, 2015 3:12:11 GMT
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Post by greg on Feb 21, 2015 4:07:57 GMT
Few more things done in short time. Functioning parking brake. Pretty straight forward install on this. Only suggestions I have for you guys is to drill a hole for the spring between the cables in the cable mount bracket, bend one end of the spring a bit so it'll loop thru your hole and into the weld gap between the mount and the tunnel. One other suggestion is to mount the handle with the tensioner set to fully loose. This way you can make it tighter as the pads wear and the cables stretch. Mine is 4/5 clicks before its completely tight. I also mounted this as high as I could in hopes the seat won't rub against it. Judging by the location of the passenger seat I'm feeling less optimistic. Couple other things done, I got more riv nuts in the mail so I could mount the brake vac bolster tube. Also drilled the holes for the brake line mount. That coat hanger you see is the planned route for the rear brake line. Somehow I have to track down a pre-flared line that is longer than 72" (86" would be ideal). If you're going to do this, just be aware the hose that goes from the plenum to this hard line will not work. Fortunately the one way valve is in the other hose so a silicone hose will work for this. I like this setup because it holds the throttle cable up and out of the way.
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Post by gwnwar on Feb 21, 2015 6:22:29 GMT
You could always use 2 or 3 shorter brake lines and adapters. They are under the car and won't be seen..
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Post by greg on Feb 21, 2015 7:30:08 GMT
You could always use 2 or 3 shorter brake lines and adapters. They are under the car and won't be seen.. True. It would be a lot easier to bend and assemble as multiple pieces too.
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Post by nigel on Feb 21, 2015 14:27:54 GMT
..... Good thing I have enough to make another one although I wish I would have gotten 5mm or even 10mm thick acrylic. The 3mm is fine mounted up like this but its fragile. I suggest you use 'polycarbonate', 'acrylic' is far to brittle for this application. UK MEV kits use 6mm works a treat nigel
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Post by greg on Feb 21, 2015 17:55:12 GMT
..... Good thing I have enough to make another one although I wish I would have gotten 5mm or even 10mm thick acrylic. The 3mm is fine mounted up like this but its fragile. I suggest you use 'polycarbonate', 'acrylic' is far to brittle for this application. UK MEV kits use 6mm works a treat nigel You're right. I should have gotten Polycarbonate (we call it Lexan here in the States). It's the same material we get with the side panels on our Exocets too. I can also add rubber grommets for it like the side panels too. Ah well, there goes another $45....
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Post by JIDiesel on Feb 21, 2015 18:18:55 GMT
The side panels on the exomotive are not lexan. they are poly acrylic. I would use no less than 3/16" thick.
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Post by greg on Feb 21, 2015 19:33:46 GMT
This is what I was thinking of getting. Little bit thicker than 3/16s but oddly cheaper than the same size sheet that thin. www.ebay.com/itm/160560445770
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Post by einy on Feb 21, 2015 20:10:30 GMT
Greg ... You can make your own drill bit for plastic work from a low cost standard drill bit by taking the positive geometry off of the flutes with a whet stone. Basically, you want to make the lead edges of the bit neutral, so they don't pull the plastic you are drilling into the drill bit (or vice versa). A lot cheaper and quicker than sourcing a special bit, but if you do this, don't try to use the same bit for metal later. Also, dish soap diluted 50/50 with water is a great lube to use while drilling plastic.
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Post by greg on Feb 21, 2015 21:31:50 GMT
You guys are awesome! Thank you for all the advice! Today I stopped into Autozone to pick up the brake lines I needed. While there they let me browse thru their selection of radiator hoses and I found this guy. It's not the same hose the Miata turbo suggested using but it looks like it will work perfectly for the FM cross flow radiator and the BEGi rear coolant adaptor (whenever that gets here).
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Post by JIDiesel on Feb 22, 2015 1:22:43 GMT
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Post by greg on Feb 22, 2015 1:54:19 GMT
That's odd. I don't know why I copied and pasted the wrong link but the 3/16th one you linked is the one I was looking at. Not the acrylic. That's just like the one I bought.
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