Greg in PA build

[greg]

Finished up the pedal installation. The kit comes with 3 spacers. Two of them attach the top of the pedal assemblies to the bottom of the dash. The 3rd is supposed to have a hole in the firewall and attach to the gas pedal mount to reenforce it but there was no hole.

Rather than drill one, I came up with an idea. The gas pedal already has a rubber backed stopper. All I did was pop it off the stock bolt and press it onto the one that came with the kit. Then threaded the bolt into the spacer and bolt the spacer to one of the open holes in the assembly.




Easy squeezy.

Next up I mounted the vin plaque. Chassis #101. Same number my grandfather had on his late model race car. (No pics of this online unfortunately)



Then it was time to tackle the steering wheel. The kit doesn't come with bolts for this so I used some spare bolts out of my Mitsubishi parts car.



Just one little issue.



Fought with this for about 5 min before realizing I could just loosen the steering rack and re-adjust.

Then came the stock steering wheel cover. Doesn't cover up my modified clock spring as well as I was hoping... Oh well. I'm sure I can get another on eBay and try again.

]


The gauge cluster is just loosely sitting in place for now. I also put the passenger panel into place temporarily so I can find out where to cut the holes for the wire harness.




Ordered up a riv-nut gun for installing the trans cover and wire tray cover.

Tomorrow I think I will finally pull the gas tank from the donor and move it to the Exocet.

[tehjeffman]

[quote author="greg" Rather than drill one, I came up with an idea. The gas pedal already has a rubber backed stopper. All I did was pop it off the stock bolt and press it onto the one that came with the kit. Then threaded the bolt into the spacer and bolt the spacer to one of the open holes in the assembly.

[/quote]



OOOOOOOOOOO so that's where the 3ed one goes. I'm selling a 16mm FM rear bar. Have a 14mm 3 hole on order. 15mm is the defacto race bar so 14mm seem like a good place to start.

[lhintze]

You gonna PC the tranny tunnel? I did mine to match all my interior panels and I think it looks good.

[greg]

Yes. It will be dark grey like the bulkhead panels.

[greg]

Tools needed to work on an Exocet. Lets see...

Sockets
Screwdrivers
Lights
Uh.... Socket extensions?

Maybe beer?

[greg]

These mirrors are completely useless... Not even sure why the law requires them. They look good though! Thinking maybe I will get a large mirror to mount in the center front of the roll cage like a normal car. ...or even one of those long mirrors that stretches the width of the bar so you can see your blind spots.

[tehjeffman]

www.ogracing.com/longacre-spot-mirror-2
www.ogracing.com/longacre-wide-angle-mirror-kit-17-with-1-2-to-2-1-2-bracket-range-2

Let me know if you want some or anything for OG, I'm a reseller.

[einy]

Looks just like I'm imagining, Greg! The color chip I have from Prismatic looks OK but your large scale pics look even better!

[greg]

Seat install check list

*64" 1/4 gauge 8 flat bar
*Titanium drill bits (full set)
*5/16 grade 8 3/4" long bolts with washers, lock washers and nuts (8 of everything)
*3/8 grade 8 2" long bolts with washers, lock washers and nuts (8 of everything, 16 washers)
*punch point and hammer
* cutting oil (WD-40 is okay)
*Paint pen
*clamps or bench vise
*tape measure
*grinder (air powered or electric)

Start off with the steel flat bar and use the grinder to cut it into four 17" pieces. Then sand the edges smooth.






I had these leather Corbeau ZR1s installed in my VR4 but kept them when I sold the car. Got them from Terry at Maximal performance a couple years ago. They were comfortable and fit me well. Figured they would be good for the Exocet.

The seat brackets I had for them were for a VR4 though and they were only single side mount brackets. Sent a message to Terry and ordered the SCCA legal double sliders. He had them to me in 2 days.

Anyway, time mount the brackets to the steel bars. We have a 20,000 lb punch press at work, but someone asked me if I could show them how to install these using tools from the hardware store.

Start off by laying out the steel and the brackets to gauge where to drill the holes. Use a paint pen to mark them and buy a set of titanium drill bits for drilling the holes.




To ensure both sides are identical, clamp both pieces together.



Use a punch to mark center. This will serve as a catch point for the drill bit.



Start off with a small bit and work your way up incrementally. Drill slowly and oil the bit frequently. Each hole was cut using 3 different bits. The seat bolt holes are 5/16ths holes and the frame holes are 3/8 holes.



After all the holes are drilled attach the seat brackets. Note that the releases on either side face towards each other.



It's easier to install the release handle before the tighten down the last two seat mounting bolts to the seat. After they are tight, raise the rails to the forward most position.




Take the seat and set it into the car to mark the front holes to drill into the floor bars. Take note the seat belt mount isn't center. Don't know if this is on purpose but I kinda wish Exomotive wouldn't weld this piece in and instead make you drill/bolt it in.

With the front holes marked, also mark the rail sides. Remove the seat and remove the bars. Set the bars back into place to mark the rear holes.




I made 1/2" holes in the floor raila even though I'm using 7/16" bolts. Gives a little wiggle room and makes the bolts easier to install.



After the holes are drilled, debure the edges on everything, reinstall the bars to the seats and set the seats back into position. Start with the front bolts, leave them a little lose till you get the rear ones installed.

Since space is limited, you won't be able to move the seat all the way forward but you can get it far enough to get the nuts on by hand.



Note: I installed the bolts facing upwards and torqued to 36 ft/lbs. It's also a good idea to coat the steel bars in something so they don't corrode.

Here are the seats installed. Even with the new trans tunnel design, it's quite snug.










This is one of the issues with the seat. With it too far back and the recliner handle assembly would be against the side panels. I might try enlarging the holes in the steel bar some more to allow a bit of wiggle room towards the trans tunnel.



In its current position there should be plenty of room for the e-brake.

[greg]

Updated my seat install post and also got this piece done. It's the bar assembly that goes under the rear subframe. The front pieces need to be removed. Handy air grinder was the tool for this job.





The other side I just cut flat off and sanded the edges to be round. Tomorrow I will powder coat it with the seat brackets.

[einy]

Greg - did the Exomotive VIN plate come with the frame when you picked it up, along with a Mfg. Certificate of Origin? Or did you get those 'after the fact' ?

John

[greg]

Got them both with the frame.

[gl21133]

Wanted to add in another +1 for Terry at Maximal Performance in here. I took the recommendation from this thread and ended up buying my seat, harnesses, and helmet from him and I'm very happy with the price and service.

[thestig]

Any updates? My build is going to be so similar. Just not as clean, everything looks so tidy.

[greg]

Well lots of progress today but some hang ups too. Starting with the good news, I finally got all the wiring out of the donor car. Ready to sell it now.





Finally got the tank out and cleaned up.



So now for the bad news. Starting with the new style FM rear brake cables. They switched to NC cables and they are just too long. Not so bad that I can't use them but I need to come up with something creative to keep them out of the way of the driveshaft and exhaust.



Also need to track down some grommets to seal these off. I'm thinking of using the rear bulkhead panel for mounting them but we will see...



Love the new trans tunnel. This will look good when finished. Going to mount the e-brake handle using riv nuts.



Just a heads up here for you guys using the FM little big brake kit and Holeshot wheels. First off, you NEED 5 mm spacers and even then, things are tight. Looks good here but...



This barely touches when fully extended. Kinda wish I had a 6 or even 7 mm spacer to give a bit more clearance



Good news is with the 5mm spacer now the rear center caps fit.