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Post by greg on Feb 16, 2015 3:44:22 GMT
My trans cover doesn't fit right either. There's some edge trim to help with the gaps but this can't be right. Can't even use the upper gear position without hitting the cover.   See what Kevin and Warren say about it. |
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Post by JIDiesel on Feb 16, 2015 4:02:10 GMT
Don't feel so bad the old style cover doesn't fit either.
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Post by tehjeffman on Feb 16, 2015 4:54:04 GMT
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Post by lhintze on Feb 16, 2015 12:08:35 GMT
I had to trim my tranny cover at least 3/4" in the front, works fine now. I removed the OEM clips from the NC lines and used regular P clips to attach to the rear subframe before I riveted the rear bulkhead panels in. They are plenty long though
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Post by greg on Feb 16, 2015 13:35:05 GMT
I had to trim my tranny cover at least 3/4" in the front, works fine now. I removed the OEM clips from the NC lines and used regular P clips to attach to the rear subframe before I riveted the rear bulkhead panels in. They are plenty long though Yeah I left the passenger panel off to take care of the rear brake line setup and mount the battery. Should have left the drivers side off too.... Ill figure something out. Maybe mount a hanger on the passenger top rear square tube that lines the end of the trans tunnel. Oh! I forgot to mention I did a rough line up of the brake lines and came up with a way to use the OEM clutch and front lines. Obviously I need to make my own rear line for the cock pit mounted prop valve but this makes the job much easier. |
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Post by pepperinyoureye on Feb 16, 2015 14:26:29 GMT
Tunnel fitment looks just like mine. Can't get into 1st, 3rd, and 5th Without hitting the tunnel.
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Post by greg on Feb 16, 2015 14:31:28 GMT
Tunnel fitment looks just like mine. Can't get into 1st, 3rd, and 5th Without hitting the tunnel. 3 for 4 then since the new design release. If #99 shows up on the forums I bet he will have the same issue. |
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Post by ashneyder on Feb 16, 2015 15:37:05 GMT
Thank you guys for making me feel a little better with having the old design frame.  |
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Post by einy on Feb 16, 2015 15:39:10 GMT
Sure hope this is addressed before s/n 110 is ready for pickup. Jeez ...
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Post by Exoteric on Feb 16, 2015 19:45:00 GMT
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Post by greg on Feb 16, 2015 20:00:12 GMT
Yeah. I remember about the rear tabs needing to be bent up. Just wasn't 100% confident I was installing it right. Wanted to get some better pics to show Kevin before drilling the holes. It's probably fine. I just need to do what Ihinze did and enlarge the shifter hole.
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Post by lhintze on Feb 17, 2015 1:03:54 GMT
That was me on the GRM thread, my whole PPF wasn't aligned after reassembling. My shifter was not centered on the car, now it is and it's dead nuts on.
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Warren van Nus
Junior
Live every day as if you are Tony Stark
Posts: 83
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Post by Warren van Nus on Feb 17, 2015 1:57:43 GMT
Sorry about that, but it's nothing a little jigsaw, hacksaw, rotary cutter, or sheet metal shears can't fix. Just throw down some tape, lubricate the blade if nessasary, and go to town.
There are significant variations from car to car and between applications (you may want to check your motor mounts), so I made the shifter hole big enough to cover 90% of situations. If I made it any bigger, it would have reduced the shift boots that everyone can use. I'm sorry it wasn't plug-and-play for you, but the previous designed tunnel required making the entire shifter opening from a starter hole, and the UK-style trans cover didn't have a hole at all.
The gap between the tunnel and bulkhead is intentional. If they were to touch, that part of the car would squeak and rattle like crazy.
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Post by greg on Feb 17, 2015 3:13:50 GMT
Ah okay. I was afraid you'd come in any tell me the front tabs get mounted on the engine bay side of the tube. Okay so something to do tomorrow. Glad I didn't powder coat this piece yet. Looks like I wasted $$ on this thing too. It sticks off to the side a bit (which doesn't bother me too much). Originally I was going to use riv nuts to mount it but the bottom holes go into the steel tunnel.  Tonight's updates: Got the gas tank mounted. Hardware list: 8x 5/16 1" long stainless bolts 16x 5/16 washers 4x 2" coupler nuts (they don't make these stainless so I will powder coat them later) Install is straight forward for that and the FM fuel rail kit for the Exocet.     Then I moved onto the rear spacers. Sorry to beat this to death but I finally came up with a good mounting solution. Hardware: 8x 3/4" grade 8 5/16 bolts, 12x stainless washers and use the washers and nuts that came with the spacers from Exomotive. The issue is the stock top hats stick up to high and the 1" bolts that Exomotive provide are too long.    Mounted the bolts to the chassis facing up although it doesn't matter. Also note I mounted the spacers first. Now see the issue with the stock NB top hats and the spacers  Thankfully the studs just pop right out with minimal effort from a hammer.  New bolts attach the top hats to the bottom of the spacer with plenty of room. Doing this setup now gives you the ability to torque both sets of bolts now (I did 28 ft lbs which I believe is stock).  Next post is about the brake lines. |
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Post by steadfast on Feb 17, 2015 3:29:50 GMT
Good info on the spacers. Seems to me that Exomotive would just move the mounting points to no longer need the spacers. . . I know this is easier said than done for Exomotive. Either way thanks for the tips, my spacers hopefully get here this weekend and this will be useful knowledge.
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