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Post by greg on Feb 7, 2015 2:05:57 GMT
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Post by greg on Feb 7, 2015 2:18:14 GMT
Back at the garage, middle of winter and no heater I installed the driver side panels. They use about a dozen 3/16 pop rivets. Sealed the panels with silicone to keep them from vibrating.    Too bad they don't make black rivets. Didn't think it would be wise to powder coat them either. Clutch pedal and master cylinder installed first.  Then the gas/brake pedal assembly with brake booster.    No room for the dead pedal with the roll cage.  The 2015 trans tunnel means the gas pedal fits without modification.   I will be installing this with machine screws or something that will allow me to remove it for easy maintenance. |
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Post by JIDiesel on Feb 7, 2015 3:11:51 GMT
Install the trans tunnel with riv-nuts, that is the best option.
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Post by tehjeffman on Feb 7, 2015 3:13:40 GMT
^ V maxx's are out of Netherlands, granted they are low end though. No sense in spreading wrong info Everything I looked for said China. I stand corrected. Maybe it was China internals. Oh wow! So you can literally give them your corner weights and they will give you a valve matched perfectly for that weight. Definitely something worth while saving my money for! My biggest complaint about these so far is that they are not height adjustable. They are high adjustable. The double spinning spring perches on the bottom are high adjustments. If your springs are to long the light car might not compress the springs enough to get the right height. Custom valuing cost extra but is worth it. |
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Post by greg on Feb 7, 2015 4:23:12 GMT
They are high adjustable. The double spinning spring perches on the bottom are high adjustments. If your springs are to long the light car might not compress the springs enough to get the right height. Well... That's more setting the preload. Heavier pre-load will raise the height but I'm talking height adjustable tube body like a tein or other higher end setup. True height adjustments. |
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Post by tehjeffman on Feb 7, 2015 16:00:25 GMT
They are high adjustable. The double spinning spring perches on the bottom are high adjustments. If your springs are to long the light car might not compress the springs enough to get the right height. Well... That's more setting the preload. Heavier pre-load will raise the height but I'm talking height adjustable tube body like a tein or other higher end setup. True height adjustments. That's why you have helper sprining. The low lb springs compress while the normal spring does not preload. It might get a little bit of preload but not enough to mater. In most cases with the car sitting neutral the spring isn't even getting preloaded when using these adjusters as it's the shock is losing or gaining travel buy pushing a stiff spring up and down. |
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Post by greg on Feb 7, 2015 16:50:56 GMT
Ah gotcha. Makes sense now. Problem is I can't use the helper spring in the rear. It rubs the axle.
Well... That's not entirely true. I can use it but the helper spring has to be completely compressed to clear it. Rendering it basically useless.
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Post by einy on Feb 7, 2015 19:42:16 GMT
Greg - every time you show another Kingsport Gray part, you make the clock slow down just a little more, as I continue to wait for the "it's ready!" call from Kevin! ~ 6 more weeks to go.
Keep up the good work !
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Post by tehjeffman on Feb 8, 2015 0:04:54 GMT
Ah gotcha. Makes sense now. Problem is I can't use the helper spring in the rear. It rubs the axle. Well... That's not entirely true. I can use it but the helper spring has to be completely compressed to clear it. Rendering it basically useless. I run 0lb helpers, their job is to be compressed flat when the car is on the ground and to keep the main spring in place when the wheel comes off the ground from jacking it up or air over a bump.  |
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Post by greg on Feb 8, 2015 0:50:49 GMT
Won't your strut bar end links also do the same thing? (Yes I know that's not their purpose but it's a side effect)
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Post by tehjeffman on Feb 8, 2015 2:29:37 GMT
No, the swaybay is what make the wheel lift in hard corners as it's limiting the travel of the A arms. Removing the swaybars give you more travel.
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Post by greg on Feb 8, 2015 3:02:58 GMT
Is that what you do? No rear sway and use the dampeners to control rear stability?
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Post by tehjeffman on Feb 8, 2015 3:41:46 GMT
My shocks are not that good. No bar sucks at high speed. We talked about doing something like that with some eshock that you can program like a ecu for the track your at so each one gets stiff or soft based on the corner you are coming up on. I have a 14mm 3 hole bar in order that I think will be the best for the weight.
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Post by greg on Feb 8, 2015 14:04:28 GMT
Thank you Jeff. You've given me some things to think about!
I've got an FM rear sway which I'm thinking maybe too stiff even on the lightest setting. With the end links adjusted to fit perfect at ride height, they don't let hardly any downward movement from the control arm. I'm afraid 3 wheeling could be a serious issue for me on some auto x courses.
Now you got me thinking I should start with the stock bar and set up the rear coil overs with the helper springs completely compressed to clear the axle yet still function during hard cornering. I honestly prefer a mild under steer anyway.
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Post by greg on Feb 8, 2015 14:12:53 GMT
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