montgom
Full
Love Exocet
Posts: 274
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Post by montgom on Dec 16, 2014 23:23:45 GMT
I do powder coating at my job so I got almost limitless access to everything I need. Except my boss wouldn't let me use the large oven for coating the chassis itself. Have to pay the guy Exomotive hires to do the frame unfortunately.  Wow!!!!!!!!!!! Robert |
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Post by gwnwar on Dec 17, 2014 5:51:02 GMT
Why don't you pay your boss to do the coating of the frame. That way you can weld on what you want before coating..
Money in boss pocket will make him feel better..
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Post by greg on Dec 17, 2014 14:58:20 GMT
Steering shaft is finished with the horn electrical hooked up and NRG quick release. Started off with modifying the clock spring to accept the NRG hub adapter.   The metal plate on the back side of the hub adapter is what gets the hot wire for the horn. What I did was cut the wiring for the horn and SRS and stripped away the coating exposing the copper wire.  I only needed one wire but decided to use two of them for extra reassurance one of the hot wires would have good contact. The ground wires and SRS wires will be deleted from the plug so they are dead. Last thing to do was solder the wires to the hub to ensure good connection. After that, some assembly required.   Ground becomes the steering shaft itself so to ensure good connectivity there, I'm going to put a long strap wire onto this bolt and attach it to the firewall. This way the ground won't be the steering rack itself.  That whole joint gets covered up by a circular black plastic shield so it won't be visible. That's it for today.  |
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Post by greg on Dec 17, 2014 15:11:22 GMT
Why don't you pay your boss to do the coating of the frame. That way you can weld on what you want before coating.. Money in boss pocket will make him feel better.. Wish that were an option. |
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Post by steadfast on Dec 17, 2014 20:32:07 GMT
The horn wiring that you did is much better than mine. I was too lazy to mess with it and wired it to a button that I mounted on the plastic cover near the key hole. You are going to love the hub though. It is the same one I have, it is rock solid and makes getting in and out of the Exocet very easy. What wheel are you going to use?
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Post by greg on Dec 17, 2014 21:12:56 GMT
Driven deep dish. For the horn button, JiDiesel found me a Mazda speed horn button which mounts in the middle of the wheel. Will match the pedals!
I'm still on the fence about changing colors of the frame from shocker yellow to that Kingsport grey (same color as be steering wheel and pedals). I don't have much time to decide. My car is next on the cue I believe.
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Post by gwnwar on Dec 17, 2014 23:14:51 GMT
Are you running both a ground and hot wire to the horn button? Are you using the OEM horn relay?
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Post by greg on Dec 18, 2014 0:01:45 GMT
Just a hot to the wheel hub. The steering shaft is the ground.
Yes. OEM relay and horn.
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Post by JIDiesel on Dec 18, 2014 1:28:49 GMT
Just a hot to the wheel hub. The steering shaft is the ground. Yes. OEM relay and horn. You need a louder horn, so it will be heard above your engine. |
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Post by gwnwar on Dec 18, 2014 4:02:50 GMT
If you are going to use the OEM wire harness.. The horn wires in the wheel are just a ground supply to the relay no hot to the wheel at all. The relay gets its power from the STOP Fuse to both W/G wires on relay.. The G/O is the ground wire to relay from the horn switch. GY(gray)/B is the power to the horn from the relay.. Horn is grounded to frame..
If your horn button has two wires to it.. ground one to frame and run the other to the horn relay in the main fuse box in engine compartment..
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Post by greg on Dec 19, 2014 13:45:08 GMT
You need a louder horn, so it will be heard above your engine. Nah. Just need a horn to be street legal. I never ever use it. Besides, my middle finger will be highly visible should I feel the need to communicate to fellow road goers. |
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Post by greg on Dec 19, 2014 22:55:21 GMT
MazdaSpeed horn button showed up today. Unfortunately its just a bit too small. Not sure what I'm going to do about that yet. Maybe I will machine a 2" ID by 2 1/8" OD ring that will press fit into the wheel to keep it secure.   Also finally got the wheels mounted and balanced. Had to install them just to see what they look like.     Some notes: *The center caps done fit the rear without a spacer. I believe I need a 5mm spacer for the rear wheels anyway for the fender mounts. Wish I would have realized that before pressing in the new rear hubs. I would have installed longer studs. *Probably going to be removing the helper springs from the V-Maxx suspension as they rub the rear axles and front upper control arm. |
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montgom
Full
Love Exocet
Posts: 274
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Post by montgom on Dec 19, 2014 23:58:39 GMT
That is one beautiful car.
Robert
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Post by JIDiesel on Dec 20, 2014 0:05:17 GMT
 For the horn you will need to machine a insert ring make sure you make a split in it. |
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Dec 20, 2014 0:53:27 GMT
*The center caps done fit the rear without a spacer. I believe I need a 5mm spacer for the rear wheels anyway for the fender mounts. Wish I would have realized that before pressing in the new rear hubs. I would have installed longer studs. *Probably going to be removing the helper springs from the V-Maxx suspension as they rub the rear axles and front upper control arm. I was under the impression that I would need a 5mm spacer in the rear, but the center caps wont fit without it? Why do the helper springs rub? The V-Maxx are mad for the miata aren't they? Shouldn't they clear? is it because the Exocet mounts are higher? Would the new exomotive spacers fix the problem or is the car just too light? |
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