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Post by lhintze on Dec 20, 2014 1:23:34 GMT
I'm almost positive the vmaxx's won't rub once the chassis is installed and they are bolted it, now they are just hanging freely. Correct?
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Post by greg on Dec 20, 2014 2:15:11 GMT
 For the horn you will need to machine a insert ring make sure you make a split in it. Wait! I have one of those! It came with the NRG adaptor. |
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Post by greg on Dec 20, 2014 2:19:33 GMT
*The center caps done fit the rear without a spacer. I believe I need a 5mm spacer for the rear wheels anyway for the fender mounts. Wish I would have realized that before pressing in the new rear hubs. I would have installed longer studs. *Probably going to be removing the helper springs from the V-Maxx suspension as they rub the rear axles and front upper control arm. I was under the impression that I would need a 5mm spacer in the rear, but the center caps wont fit without it? Why do the helper springs rub? The V-Maxx are mad for the miata aren't they? Shouldn't they clear? is it because the Exocet mounts are higher? Would the new exomotive spacers fix the problem or is the car just too light? The center caps will not fit without a spacer. The axle nut protrudes out too far. The V-Maxx are for a miata so I have no idea why they won't fit with the helpers. Maybe the fronts will fit with the spacers but there's no way the rears will clear the axles. |
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Post by linuxd00d on Dec 20, 2014 8:10:35 GMT
For the horn you will need to machine a insert ring make sure you make a split in it. My NRG 2.5 QD came with that ring. |
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Post by greg on Dec 20, 2014 17:56:45 GMT
These two pictures just show the racing beat adjustable end links setup and the issue with the helper springs in the rear suspension rubbing the axle. The helper has to be completely compressed to clear the axle so I'm thinking of pulling them out.   |
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Dec 20, 2014 20:30:03 GMT
I was under the impression that the helper springs should be compressed under normal load and that they are just there to help with droop travel. I would wait until the frame is on and the suspension is under compression before deciding.
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Post by JIDiesel on Dec 20, 2014 22:58:54 GMT
I agree with Improbable.
Also again I am copying you I have the same sway bars and link ends.
Why is the shock rubbing the axle? Wait you don't have your frame yet. I think the shocks lean a little back from the axles. Can you flip the spring arrangement over?
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Dec 20, 2014 23:49:24 GMT
Well at least I found something that I am doing differently. I am using the stock sways (for now) and 949 end links.
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Post by boileralum on Dec 21, 2014 23:45:22 GMT
I was under the impression that the helper springs should be compressed under normal load and that they are just there to help with droop travel. I would wait until the frame is on and the suspension is under compression before deciding. That is correct. The helpers will be compressed except under droop, in which case the axle will also be drooping. Greg - get the chassis mounted before trying to re-engineer the suspension - it will all come together  |
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Post by JIDiesel on Dec 22, 2014 1:52:15 GMT
What is the spring rate on that set of shocks?
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Post by greg on Dec 22, 2014 21:30:40 GMT
John, I asked for the lightest rate FM could get.  Also, that machine ring fit perfect into the NRG adaptor and the horn button snapped right in. All that was left to do was get six M5x.8 bolts for the steering wheel.  Thank you for the idea for the horn button! |
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Post by greg on Dec 23, 2014 16:17:07 GMT
Think I might sell the headlights and get a smaller set of projectors. Anyone want them? I paid $100 for the pair.
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Post by greg on Dec 30, 2014 23:48:59 GMT
So this part number was supposed to be for a replacement 4.1 speedo sensor. Doesn't seem to be anything like the stock 4.3...  |
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Post by ImprobableConstruct on Dec 31, 2014 1:04:38 GMT
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Post by greg on Dec 31, 2014 1:26:20 GMT
Found a (correct) used one on eBay for $50 shipped.
M528-17-400A is the part number.
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