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Post by r1ckbuilder on Nov 27, 2014 19:41:06 GMT
Cheers guys,
Day off tomorrow so I'll have a play and do some checks. Forgot to mention, the bias bar doesn't seem to do a lot either.
Someone has told me the standard pads aren't very good. Any recommendations or should I just persevere for a while?
Thanks for the advice,
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Post by slugshot on Nov 27, 2014 20:43:08 GMT
I would get them bedded in before trying different pads. I use hispec calipers so cant help with pad choice, do you know what make the pads are.
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Post by r1ckbuilder on Nov 28, 2014 8:08:20 GMT
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Post by r1ckbuilder on Nov 28, 2014 16:04:12 GMT
Hi all,
Took the Tr1ke out again today. Got a bit braver and got it up to about 10,000 revs in third or second, can't remember which as I was too busy holding on. It's the engine that just keeps giving . After a few involuntary expletives, I slowed up a bit and got back to the job in hand, bedding in the brakes. I think they're getting better but I still may try a higher quality set of pads just in case.
Hopefully the weather will hold for tomorrow as well,
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Post by slugshot on Nov 28, 2014 16:24:14 GMT
When the pads and discs are bedded in the disc has a nice smooth surface and all the machining marks are worn away, if that makes sense, lol.
Can't help with the pads, I don't know what brand they are, I would give them time to bed in before buying others. It does take some time to really get them fully bedded in unless you use my method or similar.
Why did you opt for the wilwood calipers rather than the Hispec, the pads in mine are the basic cheap ebc road pads £16 and they're great for the weight of the tR1ke.
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Post by nigel on Nov 28, 2014 17:16:18 GMT
The famous 'smart pads' yes I started with these but have upgraded to mintex 1144, very dusty but also far more grippy. However I would persevere with the smart pads for the time being as they should be more than adequate. Nigel
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Post by slugshot on Nov 28, 2014 18:12:22 GMT
I would agree with Nigel give them time, I have tried 1144 mintex when I switched to hispec discs and they took an age to bed in and squeaked real bad, I think they're for heavier kits as for me they don't have that instant bite when cold, though ok on track but still no better than the ebc blacks plus they're £68.
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Post by r1ckbuilder on Nov 29, 2014 7:58:11 GMT
Thanks guys,
I'll keep going with the bedding in. Perhaps I'm expecting too much, like it's going to slow down as quickly as it speeds up. After a lot of braking yesterday, the disks are starting to get a bit of a shine on them.
Went for the Wilwood as they were mentioned in the build guide and I was doing an order with RD at the time. No particular reason and it didn't occur to me to check the prices of pads as a part of the future running costs.
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Post by nigel on Nov 29, 2014 11:20:45 GMT
I know this maybe a stupid question and I don't wish to embarrass, but I've just replaced the brake discs on my daughters KA this morning and it sprung to mind. New discs when supplied are coated with a wax to prevent rust, did you clean, wipe with thinners or petrol, this off from the disc friction surfaces before using the brakes for the first time?
If not the wax will become impregnated in the pads and lead to apparent poor brake performance.
nigel
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Post by r1ckbuilder on Nov 29, 2014 12:28:46 GMT
Hi Nigel,
No embarrassment here, I'm after advice in whatever shape or form. In short, no I didn't clean the disks before I put them in but now you mention it I suppose there's a reason that the disks on my car can rust over the weekend and the new disks are bright and shiny regardless of how long they have been on the shelf. I just thought the silica gel took care of any moisture.
Is it too late for the pads or will it just take a bit longer to burn it off?
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Post by nigel on Nov 29, 2014 12:47:46 GMT
Hi Nigel,
No embarrassment here, I'm after advice in whatever shape or form. In short, no I didn't clean the disks before I put them in but now you mention it I suppose there's a reason that the disks on my car can rust over the weekend and the new disks are bright and shiny regardless of how long they have been on the shelf. I just thought the silica gel took care of any moisture.
Is it too late for the pads or will it just take a bit longer to burn it off? Without knowing the exact substance that the discs were coated with it's difficult to advise. If it were me, then I'd just put it down to experience throw away, buy and fit some new pads. Brakes are a key safety issue and I wouldn't mess around waiting / hoping that they come good. nigel
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Post by 4sfed on Dec 30, 2014 15:30:43 GMT
Rick, I was looking at your build. Were you able to cut the lower piece of aluminum under the steering column? The part with the ignition, yours looks like an aluminum sleeve. I trimmed mine to fit the steering wheel hub adapter, but didn't know how far I could cut. I would love to remove the most of it. I also left it there because mine came with a cable attached, it must have been an adjustable column. I thought of using it as a hood release with the nose cone tipping forward like the old Jag XKE of Triumph Spittfire. Also could you send me a picture of how you mounted your canard wings in the front? I was hoping to use the canard mounts as the mounts for my hood hinges .In the pictures yours seem very low to the ground, like too low. I will have to deal with speed bumps here and the curbs to the driveways here have a wicked pitch. Even our regular cars must attack the bumps at an angle as not to remove the lower ground effects. I think I'll clean my rotors too while I'm in the garage. Thanks, and have a great New Year, Derrick
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Post by erik on Dec 30, 2014 22:33:41 GMT
Rick, I was looking at your build. Were you able to cut the lower piece of aluminum under the steering column? The part with the ignition, yours looks like an aluminum sleeve. I trimmed mine to fit the steering wheel hub adapter, but didn't know how far I could cut. I would love to remove the most of it. Derrick MVSA dictates 2 anti theft devices and your insurance company may demand even more. I have 5 anti theft devices integrated in my tR1ke... I had to chamfer only a small amount of alu to fit my steering boss and retrieved 2 out of 5. br, Erik
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Post by r1ckbuilder on Dec 31, 2014 13:00:58 GMT
Hi Derrick, seasons greetings to you all,
The wings were a bit low until I wound the front springs up and now at least, it's fine on our uneven roads but speed bumps are things to be avoided I believe.
On the steering column I pretty much took the top part of the aluminium sleeve as a guide and cut to the same depth underneath and removed all the ignition stuff and steering lock. My donor had an immobiliser, which I left and I've got the bike ignition that seemed to kept the test people happy.
Cheers,
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Post by erik on Dec 31, 2014 13:18:29 GMT
Hi Rick,
Just browsing to your thread an noticed you have chrome dominator lights. Are they all chrome or only front cap? I'd like to have a pair of these for my bike but only source chrome/black ones. Do you have a link?
Thanks in advance, Erik
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