Hi Erik,, Is the "mass switch" one that disables the power from the battery ? I have an electrical issue that drains the battery unless I keep a charger on it. What would the connections look like ? Thanks for your reply.
Keep in mind to route a red wire to the dash. It'll reset the trip gauge and clock without power.I haven't got into this because I need to remove the seats+ tunnel to get me to the loom. Other than that no issues.
Cheap hazard kit turned up today. Looks simple to fit, so a job for tonight.
The Cable-tec website is a bit confusing and no prices.... always a bad sign (I imagine, it's so when you ring them, they can tell you to sit down before telling you! . I caught your video on Youtube, you know the one, the Hummingbird type fly by/around your TR1ke. Clocked the clutch cable and it's proper meaty.
Lol... I forgot I did that vid, its changed a bit since then.
Ebay Lightweight gear change cable and their cables are there, click on one and it'll give you a link to their web shop Mine's a 5mm cable with 5mm screw on clevis fittings for each end, they are quoted as having 50mm inner cable travel which is enough. The 2.5metre cable is £39 + £4.75 each for the clevis ends + £12 post. Cheers Kevin
Late 2010; Got interested, visited RTR & ordered a tR1ke February 2011; Purchased and dismantled a R1 April 2011; Started building June 2012; UK Approval by RTR July 2012; NL Approved and licensed! August 2012 and on: Driving & fine tuning.... August 2015; Sold my Tr1ke. Up for a new project.
Yes, the curveball was a curvy rear brake disk. A bit form over function. You live and learn but I suppose, with hindsight it did make it a bit of a lottery when you pulled the handbrake (not the best idea). That's why it went to RTR for the test though, to check bits like that before I get it out on the road.
I'll get the clutch switch connected to the pedal while I wait though, so it can be started in gear. The guys from RTR said it's a bit of a pain to try and find neutral on the flappy gearshift when you're sitting stalled in traffic. I can imagine!
Still the goal was a positive test, which happened. Now the tweaks begin.
Since my build has been road legal I have managed to dodge the rain showers a couple of times and get out for short runs to familiarise myself with driving the Tr1ke. I'm not really using the whole rev range yet until the roads have a bit more grip and my confidence increases. It's hard to get the smile off my face while I'm driving. Just wished I'd done it years ago!
I'm still bedding everything in but I'm not happy with the performance of the brakes so I'm after a bit of advice from you guys who have had your builds a lot longer. I have the Wilwood four pot callipers from Rally Design. They also recommended the pads and disks I'm using. The master cylinders came with the kit and I bought the Venhill brake line kit from RTR. I'm using Dot4 brake fluid and everything's bled fine.
Problem is, I have no idea what to expect but I would have liked to have thought if I stamp on the pedal, something might feel like it's close to locking up but it doesn't.
If you're sure the callipers sit square to the discs and its put together right it should just be a case of bedding the new pads to the new discs. It does take a while, i find a quiet road and trail brake a little to speed the process up. But being careful not to get the brakes too hot by letting them cool between trailing.
If you have the steel fabricated uprights ( I have ) then I found they are not quite square to the disk so took a while to bed into the whole disk, and like Slushot says they do take a bit of bedding anyway :-) once bedded in though they have plenty of power and I find they don't lock very easily the tR1ke just stops really well :-)