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Post by r1ckbuilder on Aug 3, 2014 19:39:49 GMT
Evening,
So the fuel pot is all done and plumbed in. Fuel is filling the pot a treat and there's a nice flow back to the main tank indicating the pot is full all the time. I also wired up the original fuel sender on the pump just to indicate that was the case. 
For some reason it's a bit of a pain to start the engine now. When it does start it's very weak and will eventually just stop. Any increase on the throttle just kills the engine as well. Not sure what's going on but with all it's been through I think it deserves a good service by someone who knows what they are doing, so I will get someone in to give it the once over. I have a couple of concerns about the test and I am after some advice also -
The lights - are the same as they cam off the bike currently. IE, on all the time when the engine is running (low beam). Is that OK or do I need to fit a master switch?
Will I need a speedo healer or DRD? Probably will in the long run anyway but for the test?
Does the handbrake need to operate the rear brake lights?
The cheap fuel pump I got to fill the pot has a leak (get what you pay for), any recommendations for a decent quiet pump?
Thanks in anticipation, Richard.
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Post by paulh on Aug 4, 2014 8:49:53 GMT
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Post by r1ckbuilder on Aug 4, 2014 17:34:27 GMT
Cheers Paul,
Good price on that pump. It's a good job your TR1ke is a different colour, at this rate most of the bits will be the same. Put my mind at rest about the test as well.
thanks again, |
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Post by slugshot on Aug 4, 2014 17:56:04 GMT
I use the posi-flow pump on mine, they have at least 3 versions of flow rate, the one paul highlighted might be the lower flow rated for upto 150bhp (4psi), they do one for upto 180bhp 7psi) flow rate. It might not need it but at least the pump wouldn't ever be at max output.
I have seen cars with the pump mounted on little rubber bushes to help quieten them,tough I don't think you will hear the pump once the motor starts.
Kevin
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Post by r1ckbuilder on Aug 17, 2014 18:25:29 GMT
Evening guys,
So much the same as any rowdy youngster, my TR1ke has undergone a bit of a growth spurt recently. I uncovered the reason for it running like a dog and as it used to be OK, I had a feeling it was something I had done... and it was. When I had the R1 fuel pump apart a few weeks back to clean the strainer, I knocked an O ring out of place. Net result, all the fuel pressure was going back into the pump rather than to the injectors. Put the O ring back and now all good. In fact, just about done,
Just one major issue now. The clutch won't release, it closed all the time. After having a look online apparently it can be a problem with a bike that's been left for a while and as the clutch plates have been together for a few months, I suppose mine counts. One tip is to put it in gear and rock it backwards and forwards a bit until the clutch plates break apart but that hasn't worked. Anybody got any other ideas apart from stripping the clutch? (NB, there was a clutch switch, but I'm not sure what this did, I just left it open circuit).
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Post by slugshot on Aug 17, 2014 20:38:29 GMT
Are you sure that you have the clutch cable free play and the peddle stop set correctly so it operates the clutch enough to separates the plates.
To check the clutch plates are not stuck together you can remove the outer clutch casing without draining the oil.
Kevin
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Post by edwinwl on Aug 18, 2014 5:19:22 GMT
I had similar. My clutch was together after one year of building.
Before opening the clutch housing:
Put the car in first gear, push the clutch and push the car forward and backward to gently break it free.
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Post by r1ckbuilder on Aug 18, 2014 6:53:32 GMT
Cheers guys,
It's proper stuck. Got the cover off and will dismantle at lunch time when I have a break from work. |
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Post by r1ckbuilder on Aug 18, 2014 17:50:42 GMT
Evening guys,
TR1ke all good now. Had the back wheel up, popped her into gear, let the clutch off (gently) and away she went. A full 12mph if the speedo is accurate. I don't really know what was wrong with the clutch, probably nothing but I am new to this, so it was nice stripping the clutch.
May have underestimated the force needed to activate the clutch but now I realise this, I'm worried that the clutch cable may not be man enough over time. The screw on nipples slipped a bit, so the whole thing may need a rethink after the test. It's a lot stronger now thanks to some thread lock and some solder. 
Some minor cosmetics to deal with, then off to RTR for the good people there to check my work and deal with the test people for me. |
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Post by 4sfed on Aug 18, 2014 23:58:53 GMT
Richard,
Your car looks awesome, you do nice work!!!!!
Derrick
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Post by r1ckbuilder on Aug 20, 2014 5:46:32 GMT
Hi Derrick,
Many thanks for your kind words. Couldn't make my mind up about a preferred colour scheme, which is why I bought RTR's show kit as the decision was made for me. It's fair to say I've warmed to the black and gold as you will be able to tell from my liberal application of gold paint and vinyl. I am very pleased with it for my first try in the kit world.
My TR1ke is more function over form at the moment to get it through the test but like many before who have caught the bug, I intend to tinker when I get it back (fingers crossed). I got a better 'wrap round' matching rear hugger and the DRL wiring is in place in the front mudguards for starters.
Cheers, Richard. |
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Post by 4sfed on Aug 22, 2014 3:22:31 GMT
Richard,
Good luck with the test, hope it goes smooth and pain free. Looks like you have a built in passenger, by his smile I can tell he can't wait. If I was him I'd be out there in the garage sleeping in it, you'd have to kick me out. It's like getting a bike for Christmas and waiting for the weather to clear to ride it. Hope your JPS lives up to all your expectations and more.
My dealer said my kit should be here next Friday, I'm freaking out, can't wait. Even my wife is excited. I hope I make it seem as easy as you did.
Derrick
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Post by edwinwl on Aug 22, 2014 12:00:21 GMT
May have underestimated the force needed to activate the clutch but now I realise this, I'm worried that the clutch cable may not be man enough over time. The screw on nipples slipped a bit, so the whole thing may need a rethink after the test. It's a lot stronger now thanks to some thread lock and some solder. I have had some difficulties getting the clutch right. While driving the tR1ke it is used all the time, so it must be very robust. First versions were way to weak. The 180 degree bend in the beginning causes a lot of friction. Finally: I am using a 7mm teflon inlined outer casing + 2,5mm 7x7 wire insert cable. (the thickest inlined cable I could find) While making it I also made an extra one and some extra spare inserts. I haven't used them. Current clutch operation is very good. www.cable-shop.nl/ |
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Post by r1ckbuilder on Aug 24, 2014 11:16:18 GMT
Thanks for the tip,
It'll probably be one of the first tasks after the test. Don't think the solderless nipples are too great either as you must make a weak point when you screw into the side of the cable.
On the subject of the test, I have been spending some time reading the MSVA document. The devil is in the detail as they say and it says the hazard lights must work with the ignition off. I've just gone with the stock bike electrics so the key has to be in the on position (engine running or not) for them to work. Is that a potential issue?
many thanks for any help, |
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Post by erik on Aug 24, 2014 11:26:53 GMT
You need the hazard lights to work like your commutter. It needs to work without ignition keys. The hazard lights aren't in the older loom and new wiring had to be made on mine BUT the flasher solenoid (turn indicator) may show a conflict when wanting to flash all 4 side lights which took quite some time to correct. There may be a short circuit in my original loom which gave issues. This was a tough part for me to tackle.
reconsider installing a mass switch too. It kills potential shortage/fire hazard when stored or parked which might be needed for insurance. It's an additional safety and anti theft item worth reconsidering.
br,
Erik
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