Tr1ke build in Suffolk by complete newbie

[slugshot]

Do you need the seats to adjust ie for other drivers because they will add 5kg to the weight. I removed mine to be lower for better handling and a little more out of the wind blast behind the nose cone.

[r1ckbuilder]

Evening,

I have a feeling that when it's up and running, I will agree with you completely.  At the moment though the missus has suggested she may take it for a spin from time to time.....  Thinking about it though, that may be a good reason to fix the seat so only I can drive it!

[seabee70]

Not letting the missus take it for a spin might a bad idea.

[r1ckbuilder]

Agreed, bad idea. The runners are in,

Got the bits back from the paint shop. Couldn't believe how good they looked. I used a small business in Felixstowe called Tri-colour, or Dave as I know him.  Found his mobile number on a motorbike forum, he doesn't advertise, have a website, nothing, just the sort of businesses I like.  Dave took a front wheel to match the gold and the black is like a mirror.  Excuse the manky carpet but I wanted something soft for them to sit on until the tyre fitter is ready.  Tanks already in Tr1ke.

Got the throttle cable in.  Used the 'through frame' method to give the pedal more travel.  The Venhill cable is that smooth I don't think I'll need a return spring on the pedal itself.

The electrics are just about there apart from wrapping the harnesses but I'll probably leave that until I'm sure the engine starts.  Turn the key and the clock do what they're supposed to do and the engine makes those self checking noises.  Messy at the moment but it works.

Need to build a fuel pot to house the original R1 pump and sit it above the engine, bits on order to complete the coolant system and then should be ready to turn her over for the first time.

I'm a bit unsure about the exhaust system.  The old 5VY one came through the swing arm and had twin exhausts under the seat.  Looking at other builds I need to cut the original exhaust and fit a new Y piece that splits around the back wheel.  RTR have quoted £250 for a new Y piece but I wondered if there was a more cost effective way and could I use the original R1 cans?

[r1ckbuilder]

Hi all, had a productive time recently.  Seat mounts all done, coolant and fuel systems nearly done.  Not sure how other builders have felt but when I collected the rear wheel from the tyre fitters and put it on the back of the kit, I got a real feeling of 'you're no longer a bike, you're a Tr1ke!'.  Not far off starting the engine.  But it's time for my holidays, so the builds going to stop for 10 days.  Actually looking forward to coming back off my holidays for change.  Haven't done that for a while but I did get the time to pop and get the fuel pot welded this morning.

 

[r1ckbuilder]

Clocked in some hours in the garage recently. Don't know what it is but the usual rules for the passing of time seem to speed up in there!

Been on the welder and made a battery bracket.  Pretty happy with the result.

Got some bits from CBS and finalised the coolant system.  Major respect to Slugshot as the design is a complete rip off of his excellent work.  Believe me, in this case imitation is the sincerest form of flattery.  I think things are slightly different on a 5VY engine but hopefully it will still work well.

[r1ckbuilder]

Morning guys, I'm after some bank holiday advice. I took delivery of a Hi-spec spot caliper during the week.  You know the usual 7.1 ratio one (for 6mm disks) that seems to be the choice for the handbrake system.  All ready to start making the bracket this morning and when I offered the caliper up just to see how it sat around the disk, the rear part of the caliper hits the wheel hub which stops full contact of the pads to the disk.  At best it looks as though 80% of the pads will be used and then it will be on the edge of the disk that I assume the hydraulic caliper will make a ridge on over time. 

Is this normal? - I have read the manual handbrake is not the best and I may just be being picky.

Have I ordered the wrong bit?  wouldn't be the first time!

Am I being daft?  certainly wouldn't be the first time.

Any help appreciated.

[paulh]

You`re right. the handbrake isn`t the best. mine was only around 50% contact with the disc. I rounded out the back of the caliper to get more contact area and had to make up a pulley system to get enough movement from the lever to make the handbrake work. It was just about good enough to get through msva and didn`t last long after. Some have used hydraulic handbrakes, which is what I will probably end up doing. I think the handbrake only needs to hold the tr1ke on a 30 degree slope for the test, rtr would be able to confirm this

[r1ckbuilder]

Cheers Paul,

You have confirmed I wasn't going mad.  By the sound of it, I won't be pulling any handbrake turns.  When I activate it manually it feels like it will do a sort of job but at least I now know not to rely on it too much,

[andy7b]

Hi
I also skimmed a bit off the inside of the caliper to get it closer, also the caliper is designed for a 1mm ish thicker disk so if you split it and turn 1-1.5 mm off the 2 spacers it makes it a lot better as I found that it necks out so it feels like your pulling loads but the caliper isn't actually squeezing any harder.
Andy

[r1ckbuilder]

Cheers guys for the advice, have done a bit of grinding, adjusting and fiddling.  Hopefully will do the job.

Next issue, the chain.  I can't remember reading anything but on refection it stands to reason, the relationship and distance between the drive sprockets has now changed leaving the stock chain 6-8 inches too short.  Is the solution to order two stock R1 chains and fit them together?

 

[edwinwl]

Standard chain fits.
Also with a bigger 47 teeth rear sprocket.

[andy7b]

Hi
A new chain is usually over long so is ok on mine but If I remember you have a newer donor with the swing arm brace on the bottom and I think it is longer that the older style arms. Maybe PaulH would know as he also has a newer donor. 2007 I think
Andy

[r1ckbuilder]

Not sure it does although it looks as though there's a change in frame design from the original build guide. If you could have a look at the picture of the swing arm I posted on the 4 Apr, the swing arm pin/bolt goes through and screws directly into box part of the frame. In the build guide there's a plate on either side which moves the swing arm closer to the engine and the pin/bolt then needs shortening.  I assume I've put the swing arm in correctly, although there was no other way I could see but I'm guessing the net result is swing arm further back and longer chain needed?

[r1ckbuilder]

Hi Andy, sorry if my reply looks a bit odd as I was replying to Edwinwl at the same time you must have typing.  Hopefully PaulH will be the fount of knowledge for me.