Tr1ke build in Suffolk by complete newbie

[r1ckbuilder]

Evening,

Originally I questioned it as I thought to be neat the wing stays must go on the other side of the steering arms but RTR confirmed the assembly.  Net result outside mudguard to outside mudguard is 6 ft 2 in. RTR did mention the offset in the wheels was different to the norm. 

[slugshot]

Its only 4 bolts to take a wheel off to measure the offset, the distance from the mudguards isn't accurate enough. The offset might be stamped on the rear of the wheel along with the wheel rim width.

Providing you have the hub assembled right it looks like your wheels have very little offset or non at all.

[martinw]

Thought the same as you when I first saw the photo Kev

Just had a look on the Midland Wheels site - they stock minilites, and they all appear to be ET0, so zero offset. 

Not sure if that'll be workable......I've got ET40 or ET42 offset (can't remember which!) on the front of my Sonic (I guess you'll be similar on your tR1ke Kev?) and that gives an overall track or just about 5' 11".

Martin

[slugshot]

Yeah my Rota's have +40ET with a 5mm spacer so +35ET, the spacer is for clearance from the calipers.

I'm sure +35 to + 45 was the recommended setting

[r1ckbuilder]

Morning,

Not a lot on the wheel, just 7x15, Minilite.  Using a square to measure the wheel from the inside rim to the hub flange is 114mm.  There is something that says 9884 on the inside flange but that's it.  Thanks for your help.

[slugshot]

Still not accurate enough really, lay the wheel on a flat surface with the outer side facing down and put a straight edge across the top(back side of the tyre) and take a measurement down to the flat surface.
Half the total that you get to get the centre of the wheel.
Then with the tape measure still on the flat surface measure up to the hub surface, lay a short straight edge across it to get an accurate reading.

The offset is the difference from the centre of the wheel to the hub surface if there is any.

Positive offset is if the hub surface is closer to the outer side of the wheel.

PS...ignore all above if you can't be arsed

[r1ckbuilder]

Hi Kev,

Got the rulers out again and with the wheel on the floor with the inside rim facing up - 214mm from a straight edge laying across the tyre to the floor through the spokes.  From the floor to the hub surface it is 95mm.  Would that give a positive offset of 12?  Everyday is a school day as they say!

[slugshot]

Ok so 214 div by 2 = 107 centre, 95 to the hub surface is 12 from the centre as you say.

But providing you have the wheel with the back facing up the reading is -ET 12MM NOT +

For example mine is +35 which means your wheel is 47mm further out than mine.

This is why your wing stays look wrong....sorry

Ideally you would measure the wheel from front to back rim, but this result will be near enough.

[r1ckbuilder]

Cheers, I appreciate your advice.

As long as the implications are purely cosmetic, I can live with it and I like the extra width at the front end. Hopefully it will go around corners quicker and help control wheel spins easier!

[slugshot]

It will never lift a wheel that's for sure

PS...I was hoping you would put me right regarding the offset after the little lesson...as you got the measurement correct first time ....+12mm

[r1ckbuilder]

This is all new to me and as Ronnie Corbett famously said 'I know my place'.  Give it a couple of weeks and I'll up the cheek level.

I pretty confident the front end is all together properly, especially as the stub axel issue was indicated by the brake disks not lining up and they're both bob on now.

More help needed though - seat runners. I am having hells only job trying to track down runners that span the 310mm gap between the cross members on the Tr1ke frame. The mounting holes to the frame need to be 330 to 340mm apart and I can't find any runners this length. I note in other build guides extra mounts have been made but ideally I'd like to keep it simple especially as the frame is already powder coated.

[martinw]

I'd be concerned that with that ET, your steering may feel really horrible, and really heavy, as you're changing the geometry so much.

I know there are plenty on here better able than me to describe the technicalities - but it seems to be that the centre of the contact point that the tyre will have with the road will be far outside the swivel point of the steering. I've seen a diagram somewhere on t'internet that describes it very well.....just can't find it now.

And ....if I'm (hopefully!) wrong, I'm sure others will chip in.

Martin

[biggunz]

Mar 4, 2014 10:28:17 GMT r1ckbuilder said:

More help needed though - seat runners. I am having hells only job trying to track down runners that span the 310mm gap between the cross members on the Tr1ke frame. The mounting holes to the frame need to be 330 to 340mm apart and I can't find any runners this length. I note in other build guides extra mounts have been made but ideally I'd like to keep it simple especially as the frame is already powder coated.

I just bought these from Europa spares, they've got a total length of 360mm with predrilled holes at 330/340 and with a middle bar the width can be 'adjusted' by bending/straightening the middle bar

www.europaspares.com/double-lock-runner-middle-bar.html

It does say on the website that the length is 340 but just checked mine now and it's defo 360mm! Only problem I've got is they sent me 1 left runner and 3 right ones!

Shaun

[r1ckbuilder]

Hi Martin, The wheels came with the kit from RTR as it was a show kit for display purposes. I'm hoping this means the wheels are fine for the Tr1ke.

Hi Shaun, they look perfect.  Don't know how I missed them.  It felt like I'd looked everywhere but obviously not.

[biggunz]

Mar 4, 2014 19:06:41 GMT r1ckbuilder said:

Hi Shaun, they look perfect.  Don't know how I missed them.  It felt like I'd looked everywhere but obviously not.

I was exactly the same, they say they're a standard size for many cobras, corbeau and sparco seats so we both must have been looking in the wrong place!