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Post by Toed64 on Apr 9, 2014 15:06:31 GMT
That looks like the inner wheel bearing has split, leaving one part on your hub. You should be able to pry it off. The hub surface underneath the bearing is not absolutely critical, so long as the new bearing seats nicely on the hub, so don't fret overly about scratching the surface. If it won't move, try turning it with a hammer and chisel first. You could also heat it up as it will expand more, and faster than the hub, thus loosening it.
Good luck.
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Post by miket on Apr 9, 2014 16:11:18 GMT
Thanks Toed64 I'll give it a try.
It be good to be able to clean out those inner bearings, re-grease them and put it back on, but I guess it'd be hard to do without getting solvent in the inaccessible inner bearings and ruining their grease. Looks like time for a replacement hub.
I've learned a couple of things since the earlier post:-
1. On mine there are holes in the front upright at the back of the 3 dust shield bolts - the ones that need undoing for the front stays. So you can soak 'em from the back as well as the front. Shame I only realised this after shearing one!
2. I talked to Stuart at MEV and it seems these new rear stays have been created with the 1.8 in mind i.e. with its bigger brakes. On the 1.6 the new stays snag on the upper slider sleeve so my new rear stays'll need trimming a little.
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Post by Toed64 on Apr 9, 2014 18:20:16 GMT
No, not a new hub, just new bearings...
I'm interested in your new design back mudguard stays. My hubs are the early type that do not have the handy stub, so mine were complicated!
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Post by miket on Apr 9, 2014 18:42:01 GMT
I'm afraid the new rear stay still uses the handy stub on the upright (or not in your case!) and the upper calliper mount bolt. Only one hole needed in to the stub rather than 2, but I guess that's no consolation.
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Post by hunchfront on Apr 9, 2014 20:21:11 GMT
if you hit the race with your chisel you'll take the edge right off it
either warm it up & pry it off or cut a nick in it with a grinder then hit it with a chisel & it will crack allowing you to lever it off with ease
you'll need a new/second hand hub as bearings aren't available seperately
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 10, 2014 6:05:34 GMT
You will need to replace the hub unit (comes with bearings).. Use a sharp chisel between the back of bearing race and stub axle.. You can rebuild the hub unit but not worth the time and money..That race looks really buggered up, makes you wonder what the other side looks like.. Torque the axle nut to 123>159ftlbs and stake nut.
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Post by Toed64 on Apr 10, 2014 8:05:32 GMT
if you hit the race with your chisel you'll take the edge right off it either warm it up & pry it off or cut a nick in it with a grinder then hit it with a chisel & it will crack allowing you to lever it off with ease you'll need a new/second hand hub as bearings aren't available seperately Sorry, I stand corrected - I was thinking about a Toyota front wheel bearing assembly I replaced...
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Post by Deleted on Apr 10, 2014 11:34:54 GMT
No, not a new hub, just new bearings... I'm interested in your new design back mudguard stays. My hubs are the early type that do not have the handy stub, so mine were complicated! Looks a much better design to me
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Post by Toed64 on Apr 10, 2014 12:57:35 GMT
Yes, much better - the two bars cannot move independently of each other, so the wheel arch would be much more secure...
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Post by miket on Apr 10, 2014 16:24:18 GMT
Thanks for the hub-removal tips. I started with the gentle nudge with a sharp chisel and it came loose easily - funny old world eh! I've ordered the replacement hub and an 'easy out' to help with this and future bolt shearing.
I offered up the new rear stay to mark out the crescent I need to cut away to fit around NA/Mk1 1.6 upper brake slider sleeve. Got that roughly removed and put it in place on the upper calliper mounting bolt. There can of course be some rotation around the bolt to allow an arc of possible drilling places in to the handy stub. So I thought I'd better put the wheel back on so as to judge the optimum place to drill the handy stub... then found that without the spacers on the hub the tyre presses in to the stays and prevents my fine tuning. So I guess it's more shopping now for spacers. It's a shame default ones aren't a part of the kit if they're needed, but I guess it allows people options. I've heard of cheaper non-hub-centric ones, local-boy "Freaky" ones and some branded ones (Eibach?). I guess the holy grail is cheap hub-centric ones ... any recommendations or other options out there for the budget builder?
It feels like the PU-adhesiving of stays to wings won't be a precise science. How much time and effort have people had to put in to getting wings looking like they're in the right place around their wheels? Or do they seem to look fine whatever goes on with stays and adhesives?
The other thing with the rear stays is that the calliper mount fixing and the handy-stub fixing aren't quite in the same line (front to back of car) so some shims and longer bolts will probably go on the shopping list too.
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Post by Toed64 on Apr 10, 2014 18:36:51 GMT
The spacers that Freakyparts have made and sell are the best value/quality hub-centric spacers you're likely to find. They are excellent. I (and most others) would advise very strongly against the other stud extenders and rattly square thingies. They are dangerously crumby. The studs are too short for most alloys - might work on steels rims.
Getting the wing stays about right does not seem to be an exact science. None of the cars I've looked at have the stays in the same exact positions in relation to the mud guards, so you're likely to have to play about with getting them equidistant from the tyres (clearance). When I was mounting them, I clamped a straight edge to the chassis (all the way across) and another onto the disc. That helped a lot. However, you'll be drilling each mudguard to suit each set of brackets in order to get the mudguards in similar positions in relation to the car and the ground. The straight edge across the chassis was a massive help with this.
Oh, and remember to use lots of masking tape on the gel-coat or it'll chip like mad... and a dremel is a marvelous thing...
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Post by Toed64 on Apr 10, 2014 18:41:00 GMT
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Post by miket on Apr 11, 2014 6:47:31 GMT
Good info - thanks. And Dremel added to birthday list!
For my budget build I'm going to have to run with the original standard 14" alloy wheels (at least initially) which I believe have an ET of 45. The Build Guide says I need a 32mm spacer for 45 ET wheels. I think I've read somewhere that spacer sizes are the total of both spacers, so does that mean I need to buy 2 pairs of actual 16mm each rather than 2 pairs of actual 32mm each?
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Post by Toed64 on Apr 11, 2014 8:45:47 GMT
I rather like the minilite style original wheels - I've still got them on my stripped out Eunos that I take to track days... although now that my Exocet is finished, maybe it'll only go to the wet and very cold days from now on. Keep the centre caps for IVA as he might decide that the lip is too sharp... I know that spinners fail Cobras, so sharp edges on wheels might too.
You'll need 32mm spacers on each corner with standard wheel rims.
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 11, 2014 19:38:39 GMT
Check the back of the wheel for offset numbers just to be sure.
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