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Post by gwnwar on Feb 27, 2014 20:26:53 GMT
Like Mathew said take it off. You can wire brush and paint with exhaust paint.. I would not wrap it that will lead to more rusting faster.. Run it bear metal..
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Post by miket on Feb 28, 2014 18:24:43 GMT
Thanks guys - it came off all too easily.
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Post by miket on Mar 7, 2014 18:21:59 GMT
Since last time I've collected the kit... and run out of room in the garage. The shopping's started with a vengeance with a cambelt kit & basic discs/pads kit. I've tried to remove the dampers and as ever this forum's been key to making progress (see separate thread) tho' rusty old lower bolts are resisting on 3 of 4 dampers so far. The two rears' nuts are no longer captive and the offside front nut is a different size to the nearside's.
I need to see if there's a way of confirming whether the current dampers work okay and then perhaps just leave them on. The gaiters are long gone, but I think I read gaiters aren't a formal requirement. Or perhaps I can find some 'generic' ones.
I've also removed the brake calipers and discs. the rears were straightforward, but the fronts' top caliper mounting bolt/slider seems locked. Locked solid in one case and on the other I could prise the caliper away from the disc only with leverage force. I'm starting to wonder if the top bolt/slider needs to be unbolted rather than just sliding the caliper off it like the rears. Rod's book says it should slide off, but it also said the lower bolt was 10mm when mine was 14mm so perhaps my car's "special".
Other than that I've broken-the-back of the suspension de-rusting ready for some POR15. I also had a dabble in electolysis rust-removal using and old desktop's power supply - looked promising for manageable sized bits.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2014 18:24:45 GMT
Good work mate, keep it up
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Post by jgilbert on Mar 7, 2014 20:27:44 GMT
A post on the electrolysis would be useful.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 7, 2014 20:44:35 GMT
A post on the electrolysis would be useful. I looked into this years ago. Be aware you really need to read it and if you don't the fumes can and will kill you and are extremely volatile
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Post by gwnwar on Mar 8, 2014 6:43:48 GMT
Miket.. If you shocks have more then 50000miles on them replace them and the boots.. While you are doing the timing belt do the water pump too..Did your kit come with tensioner and idler pulleys.When doing WP don't forget the new "O" ring for the tube under the exhaust manifold front end.. with the front brakes the bolt thread is 10mm head of bolt 14mm.. and your caliper should slide off the pin.. Remember you have a screw adjustment on the rear calipers don't just press the piston in.. You might just get a good pair of rear lower control arms..
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Post by miket on Mar 12, 2014 17:40:17 GMT
Thanks for the support/info above. I'll make a few notes on my electrolysis dabbling elsewhere.
Not a great day today; I made progress I guess, but it was painful... Having soaked the seized front brake top caliper mounting bolt/sliders for a few days I put them back on the car to try get them moving/sliding... and the first one promptly sheared, so that's a replacement caliper to find. The other one has freed up and is pending on me being on talking terms with brakes again to investigate what's still usable.
I moved on to the rear dampers' no-longer-captive nuts and they still wouldn't shift. Taking in to account gwnwar's comments I had a look at the dampers and they were marked "900807" - so I presume that's date related and they are all the original dampers having done 135k miles - so I'd best replace them. So I cut off the nsr one's bolt - and made a right meal of it due to lack of forethought - thank goodness for power tools - I've generated more swarf than I thought there was rust-free metal, broke 2 drill bits and need some new reciprocating-saw blades. Tomorrow the other rear damper bolt bites the dust.
I keep thinking I'm close to starting actually building rather than dismantling/fettling, but there keeps being more things to have to reduce to component level.
I also need to decide on the best way of replacing the old rear no-longer-captive nuts with something that'll be tightenable/undoable through the ridiculously small aperture available.
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Post by biggunz on Mar 12, 2014 17:52:49 GMT
Do you have access to any welding equipment ? If so easy way to get rid of sheared bolt it to weld a blob on the bolt so you can get a pair of mole grips on, not only do you have something to grab a hold of but the heat from the welder is enough to loosen to the bolt as well!
It's frustrating having things hold you up but keep at it! Good things come to those who wait!
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Post by miket on Mar 12, 2014 21:17:21 GMT
It's a good tip - thanks, I don't know any welders thus far in my rookie season, but I'm more likely to uncover one now that the needs arisen.
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Post by miket on Mar 13, 2014 18:39:24 GMT
What a difference a day makes. Yesterday despondency at 3 damper bolts I couldn't free and I cut one out. Today the other 2 surrendered. Then I checked the rear caliper pistons - both seem fine. Then found out that front caliper pistons are best removed by using the braking system I dismantled weeks ago...
Any ideas on how to get the pistons out without hydraulics / compressed air? Would a puller on the seal 'trough' be too brutal/risky?
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Post by gwnwar on Mar 13, 2014 22:41:30 GMT
Compressed air is best..Go down to an auto shop ask them to blow them apart.Give the guy a couple of buck for his trouble.. Bring a couple of rags because there will be fluid coming out under pressure.. If cly. are not pitted hone them good install kits.clean and lube the sliders on all calipers.. If pitted replace them..
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Post by miket on Mar 18, 2014 15:55:36 GMT
Thanks gwnwar, that sounds like a plan. I presume the air's blown down the slightly loosened/opened bleed valve with a bolt blocking off the brake-pipe 'hole' so that the air doesn't head off out that way?
I've spent some time cleaning up the calipers - or trying to, brake cack is really tough stuff to shift but I wanted to do the cleaning spadework before my caliper service kits arrive. When I bought the donor it was apparent that its brakes were in a poor state and the service history shows a story of brake issues.
If anyone has any advice on whether to stick the brakes back on the car before or after starting on the kit I'd be interested to hear. Cheers.
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Post by gwnwar on Mar 18, 2014 18:21:36 GMT
Rebuild on bench use vice if you have one.. Get a couple of spray cans of break clean. Watch your eyes.. Leave the bleeder in place and tight..(remove it later for cleaning) Blow air into the pipe hole. Have cal on rags and also over it as fluid will flying.. WATCH YOUR FINGERS DON'T HAVE THEM BETWEEN THE PISTON AND CAL BODY WHEN BLOWING PISTON OUT... Wear glasses.. You can do this at home if you have an air tank for tires and a nozzel for blowing.. Don't use break clean on painted cals. it will strip paint.. Use small piece of hose on the bleeder tip into a bottle when bleading to save paint too..
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Post by miket on Mar 21, 2014 7:47:39 GMT
Thanks - I'll give it a try.
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