eastbaymatt
Junior
Exocet Race - Honda K engine
Posts: 26 
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Post by eastbaymatt on Mar 23, 2015 3:08:19 GMT
Wow before I can even suggest option 4) LS3 .... You already bought another. Sounds like a great deal for a good engine.
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Post by steadfast on Mar 23, 2015 5:46:38 GMT
I would love to LS3 it, but then we are talking about $10-12k...
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Post by einy on Mar 23, 2015 11:52:40 GMT
For the 'uninformed' (meaning, me) ... what is the benefit of buying a JDM engine vs. one originally sold in the US? Lower miles? Different specs that are beneficial? I have a moderately OK 1.6 that will be the starting point engine in mine, but am keeping an eye out for future upgrades as budget allows.
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Post by greg on Mar 23, 2015 13:36:05 GMT
Just a heads up. You might want to consider at least popping off the valve cover off your new engine just to gauge how well the motor has been taken care of. Japanese guys don't seem to care about changing their oil very often.
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eastbaymatt
Junior
Exocet Race - Honda K engine
Posts: 26
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Post by eastbaymatt on Mar 23, 2015 15:44:13 GMT
I was kind of eyeballing LS1s 300-330 HP and seem to be around $4K ish (Plus parts to install...and CTS-V tranny) Not sure if it would fit....but there is a 99 Miata project near San Diego that somebody stuffed a Lexus 1FZ V8 into. Pretty light for a V8....project was unfinished....but could give someone everything they would need for a V8 exocet? Asking was $2,500.
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Post by steadfast on Mar 23, 2015 22:25:49 GMT
Just a heads up. You might want to consider at least popping off the valve cover off your new engine just to gauge how well the motor has been taken care of. Japanese guys don't seem to care about changing their oil very often. Yeah, I'm already have a timing belt kit along with all seals, tensioner, and idler pulleys from FM. I also will be removing the oil pan to tap an oil return for the turbo (when I install it in a few months). I'll inspect everything. But the compression numbers give me hope that I'll get something decent. |
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Post by steadfast on Mar 23, 2015 22:40:49 GMT
For the 'uninformed' (meaning, me) ... what is the benefit of buying a JDM engine vs. one originally sold in the US? Lower miles? Different specs that are beneficial? I have a moderately OK 1.6 that will be the starting point engine in mine, but am keeping an eye out for future upgrades as budget allows. The only real benefit on the motor is that it comes standard with the BP5A cam. This cam has slightly more lift duration than the 99-00 USDM intake cam (.326 lift / 248*). I'm hoping that with this cam, intake, header, exhaust, and MS2 I can get an extra 10-15hp. Time will tell. Another aspect of using this engine is I feel like I got a good deal. I called around to many places to get pricing on NB1 and NB2 USDM motors. Many of them had 150k-200k miles on them, and everyone wanted $1k-1.2k. That is crazy talk. By the time I pay for shipping and sell off the 6 speed the new engine will cost me around $900-1000 which should have 50-60k miles on it. Again, fingers crossed... |
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Post by gsrflyby on Mar 23, 2015 23:54:55 GMT
As another option that I have been looking into is a 4.8L GM small block. They are the same as a 5.3L just reduced stroke, which is great for higher revving. But the best part of all is they are CHEAP! A complete engine from a local junkyard is $700 with 50,000 miles on it. It would be the only way I could afford to put a V8 in a Exocet that is hopefully in my future. Don't pay ludicrous money for an LS1 dropout when a truck motor is easily converted into one for much cheaper!
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Post by greg on Mar 24, 2015 1:38:42 GMT
Just a heads up. You might want to consider at least popping off the valve cover off your new engine just to gauge how well the motor has been taken care of. Japanese guys don't seem to care about changing their oil very often. Yeah, I'm already have a timing belt kit along with all seals, tensioner, and idler pulleys from FM. I also will be removing the oil pan to tap an oil return for the turbo (when I install it in a few months). I'll inspect everything. But the compression numbers give me hope that I'll get something decent. It's toobad you can't run the motor and get a reading of oil pressure. That's really the tell tail sign of health. |
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Post by nomdenom on Mar 24, 2015 19:25:15 GMT
1) Replace with used motor from ebay, get up and running and FMII no electronics turbo shortly there after cost: $5-6k hp: 220-240 +: best bang for buck for hp -: not a set and forget setup Why not a set and forget setup ? I thought that was the main selling point of the FMII when compared to putting together your own turbo kit ? |
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Post by steadfast on Mar 24, 2015 19:30:25 GMT
I guess that was a poor statement, to be honest nothing with these cars are set and forget. For instance:
Build car, dial in, megasquirt, dial in, replace motor, dial in, megasquirt, dial in, turbo, dial in, dynotime, then set and forget...
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Post by gl21133 on Mar 24, 2015 19:40:38 GMT
If you're going FMII, why not ditch the MS and get the Hydra? A bit more set and forget.
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Post by steadfast on Mar 25, 2015 3:42:20 GMT
I don't mind the tinkering. I have trackspeed engineering in my backyard, so I'll have them dyno tune it for me to dial her in.
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Post by steadfast on Mar 29, 2015 5:02:02 GMT
I've never pulled an engine from a Miata before, so I'm not sure if it is always this easy... I had the engine/tranny out in less than two hours. This includes drinking a lot of coffee and chit chatting with neighbors passing by. Overall a pretty good morning. I have a lot of upkeep to do on the new motor when it arrives on Monday. I hope to have everything back in by Sunday of next week. Before:  After:   |
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Post by gwnwar on Mar 31, 2015 23:20:53 GMT
If you are going to pull the oil pan there is no gasket just sealant also there is a baffle plate between the block and pan.. don't mess it up taking it apart.. There are 2 spots at the rear of the pan to use a large screwdriver to pry/pop pan apart.. Really no reason to remove pan to drill hole just wrap tape around bit to stop it from going in to far just need to go enough to cut hole maybe a 1/2".. use grease on bit and tap when drilling and tapping hole.. Flush good.. pick up screen really fine openings to catch anything left after flushing..
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