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Post by gwnwar on Apr 11, 2014 19:21:10 GMT
Shaun.. Do you have power the the blue/red and red/black wires on the ECU with key on and in start position?? Also the black wires from ECU to frame/engine ground.. Don't know if you have this.. check 2nd and 3rd diagrams.. Click control and + on computer to enlarge for easy read.. www.miataforumz.com/1990-200-Miata-Wiring/90diag.pdfFar reaching question.. Are your cams turning (check through oil fill cap) when you turn engine over..They turn the CAS.. |
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Post by biggunz on Apr 25, 2014 13:28:39 GMT
Checked the injectors to see if I'm getting a pulse and all I'm getting is a constant voltage no pulsing on the yellow wire. Used an led as well and it didn't flash just stayed on. The only thing I couldn't check on this is the ground, mine only has two wires (white/red and yellow) where does it get it's ground? Is it through the casing itself?
Blue and red wire at ecu has power. The only red and black wire I have at ecu is for tail lights which works when on. There is a red/black wire on automatic cars from throttle sensor but not on mine.
Checked the cam and cam sensor are turning and they are.
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Post by gwnwar on Apr 25, 2014 22:53:52 GMT
Shaun.. The ECU grounds the injectors.. Are the black wires at the ECU grounded to the frame/engine..use OHM meter to check.. The 2 ground wires at the rear of the intake manifold secured..
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Post by biggunz on Apr 26, 2014 9:02:25 GMT
Yep they've all got good grounds
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Post by Stiggy on Apr 27, 2014 16:35:49 GMT
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Post by biggunz on Apr 27, 2014 17:31:18 GMT
I believe so, I tested resistance readings from what I've found online through the pins and it was fine. Is it actually working? I couldn't say! I don't wanna buy one only for it to have been fine! Is there a way I can test it?  |
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Post by Toed64 on Apr 27, 2014 19:16:39 GMT
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Post by snowbird1 on Apr 28, 2014 13:42:48 GMT
No spark and no injector pulse still seem to indicate that the ECM is not getting a signal from the cam position sensor (CMP). You say you have good power and ground, checking the signal to the ECM will require back probing the white and yellow/blue, I'm guessing the CMP is a Hall effect sensor, on of the wires should be a 5 Volt reference and the other should a high low switching signal. Make sure you are using a high impedance tester and it will need a fairly good response to see the switching signal.
Alternately if you can get a 'known good' sensor, plug it in and spin it by hand and see if you get a spark.
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Post by biggunz on Apr 29, 2014 6:42:28 GMT
No spark and no injector pulse still seem to indicate that the ECM is not getting a signal from the cam position sensor (CMP). You say you have good power and ground, checking the signal to the ECM will require back probing the white and yellow/blue, I'm guessing the CMP is a Hall effect sensor, on of the wires should be a 5 Volt reference and the other should a high low switching signal. Make sure you are using a high impedance tester and it will need a fairly good response to see the switching signal. Alternately if you can get a 'known good' sensor, plug it in and spin it by hand and see if you get a spark. Found a cam angle sensor on eBay for £12. Wasn't sure if my meter is up to the job so buying this seemed cheaper option. If it doesn't solve the problem I'll just stick it back on eBay! Everyone reading please cross your fingers! I need all the luck I can get! Shaun |
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Post by Stiggy on Apr 29, 2014 8:29:29 GMT
the solution should be very simple here. The car worked before you stripped it so how can the cam angle sensor suddenly not work? I wonder if your car is fitted with a key reader on oe near the ingnition barrel and a key with a transponder or a dangley bit on the key ring. If that is the case then maybe you are using the spare key for the boot or doors and not the one with a gizmo?
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Post by biggunz on Apr 29, 2014 9:16:51 GMT
Nope I'm using the same key as before.
There is nothing left in the wiring loom which isn't standard apart from the Clifford alarm which I've removed and installed with no result!
I agree how can it just break but there's nothing other than mazda components left too blame! Everything is connected, grounded, got power and good continuity!
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Post by nitram on Apr 29, 2014 10:24:51 GMT
Shaun
I've got a different model to you so this question might be irrelevant. Are you sure you have no spare plugs and sockets disconnected? On mine, I had a plug and socket at the rear of the car (near the battery) which appeared to have nothing to do with the engine; I thought that they were left over from something like the radio aerial or heated rear screen. But when connected, engine started and ran sweetly.
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Post by biggunz on Apr 29, 2014 11:13:28 GMT
Shaun I've got a different model to you so this question might be irrelevant. Are you sure you have no spare plugs and sockets disconnected? On mine, I had a plug and socket at the rear of the car (near the battery) which appeared to have nothing to do with the engine; I thought that they were left over from something like the radio aerial or heated rear screen. But when connected, engine started and ran sweetly. I'll check again near there again but have been through the whole loom checking against wiring diagram what every plug is for. Cheers for the help though! Please keep it coming!!! |
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Post by jgilbert on Apr 29, 2014 18:20:32 GMT
Shaun I've got a different model to you so this question might be irrelevant. Are you sure you have no spare plugs and sockets disconnected? On mine, I had a plug and socket at the rear of the car (near the battery) which appeared to have nothing to do with the engine; I thought that they were left over from something like the radio aerial or heated rear screen. But when connected, engine started and ran sweetly. I'll check again near there again but have been through the whole loom checking against wiring diagram what every plug is for. Cheers for the help though! Please keep it coming!!! Shaun, just a thought. When you go through your loom connectors you might what to coat the connectors with something like Contralube. It's a weatherproofing and corrosion protector designed specifically for electrical connectors (EBay I guess is as good place as any to get it). If you do this it won't seem like a wasted job. Protecting the connectors will benefit the long term reliability of the electrical system. Once done and with the connector remade Tipex the connector so you know you have checked it/ protected it. Good luck. |
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Post by jgilbert on Apr 29, 2014 19:46:00 GMT
Shaun, This is the stuff.  |
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