Here is a clip on the mirrors. They come as a pair so that is what I am installing . I have some CNC'd mounts that will be welded to the frame to mount the mirrors on. It should be a clean and sturdy way to install them.
You would not want to paint the real carbon fiber shells that are clear coated from the factory. My bonnet is also made epoxy and carbon fiber cloth. By clear coating the top windshield part it will match the mirrors and give the bonnet a high tech look if everything turns out right.
I loved the way your Tr1ke looked so I am trying to get everything to work together without breaking the bank.
By next week I will have most of the tabs welded on. I will post some pictures so you can get a better idea where I am heading. It will not match the quality of your Tr1ke build but should look pretty good if my Billet top A-arms get made and shipped. That will give me adjustable caster and camber and 52 degrees of travel on my A-arms instead of 19 degrees that I have now.
Nice clip. I'm not too keen on carbon since I have had a Monster900 with a lot of carbon parts.At the end it'll cost a fortune for little over all effect. I was lucky to find most parts 2nd hand. carbon layups are overrated too much IMO but it will be a better base for painting as plastics.
My tR1ke isn't exessive more expensive as a regular build, but the paint job and carefull choice of parts make it look as it is now. Keep in mind I had to wait 16 weeks for my kit to arrive wich helped a lot. It gave me a lot of time to read other threads and make up what I like and dislike with fundamental arguments both directions. For instance, the front wheels have been selected by a lot of parameters: not black or silver, 2 tone,great emblem, easy to clean,good view on the calipers and disc, decent match of the spokes and nut holes (5 spoke and 4 holes are a poor match in general). The bonnet has been painted identical anthraxite as the wheels to make a perfect match. After all, there are too many wheels to chose from and I had too weed out the bad ones with reason. Only 2 turned out to be usefull for me.
I just have seen your brackets and they look nice. hope to see more pics soon to get a better view on this chasis.
I was able to get the carbon cloth to do the hood and all my pieces for $80 so it was cost effective for me and it really made a very stiff bonnet so the cost was worth it overall. I bartered with a friend that does CNC work at his shop so that helped quite a bit to keep the cost down. Thanks for the compliment.
Hmmm, The order for the steering wheel got cancelled for no reason. Had my pc serviced and haven't had a reply since. However, on ebay i found identical wheel and slichtly cheaper.
Now this is me in conflict here: the seatbelt Scott is using looks a bit too long and I was reconsidering to use a silver colored seatbelt as well instead of black. In my tr1ke I have short Sabelt 4p-harness wich I'm reconsidering to test fit in the Exo-r later to see if it works out nice or if I am in need for the longer version. I did notice they make nice red ones as well which would be nice along with light blue panels and orange chasis but that'll require a red steering wheel If I go this sheme I will not have any issues matching blue steering wheel with grp panels. The steering wheels tend to be plain blue which is too dark for me so basically: back to the drawing board
Of corse, ordering the lights,indicators, mirrors and seatbelts will be posponed as i'm planning to order them at CBS at once to reduce shipping costs.
i did manage to locate all front wheel parts needed for the Exo-r exept the tacho sensor. i may have to make a dummy on a lathe later as i am not interested to buy a new one at 200 euro.
btw, How do you experience the steering wheel diameter? is a small version in favour on this vehicle?
Over here I think everyone is using the NRG 320mm wheel. The trike is sensitive to steering inputs and this seems to be in the middle for sensitivity.
I also made and welded my stops for the brake and gas petal. The welds will be cleaned up but this will give me the adjustments I need to prevent stressing the cables and components for these systems. Gas Petal top stop IMG_1331 by evanbelkom, on Flickr Gas Petal This was a tough one to weld on as the top Gas petal stop was right above it. It will be cleaned up. The top stop was made out of 1/2" x 1/2" rod tapped for 1/4-20 and welded on. IMG_1333 by evanbelkom, on Flickr
I saw a lot of vehicles with a master cylinder using one so I included it in my build. It is set so it just touches before the brake cylinder does. Everything is being tacked in before the final welding.
On my tr1ke the master cilinder is rock hard and sensitive. The minimal free play ensures me the brake pads are fully free in movement even when the brake fluid gets hot. On the throttle cable I have a little more free play to ensure good idle setting. I did add an aditional spring to the lever to close the carbs fully. this might be good for the Exo as well because it is a pull-pull system but not in the Exo.
The drawing board showed an interesting result. I'm definately heading for red steering wheel, seatbelts, a-arms and hub. I recon powdercoating everything orange is overdone and red i a nice addition to the sheme.
Scott informed me he used 250mm steering wheel and found this a bit sensitive but good for low speeds, his brother uses 310mm D-haped steering wheel which gives more leg room. I browsed for a long time to find a 300mm steering wheel which would be eastatically okay for me . Still looking a bit too stealthy but fully weather resitant. A bit black matches the top fairing panel and seat. I discarted the chrome lights/ind/mirrors concept and I'll use black items.
I'm highly suprised the sheme is set in this early stage. On the tR1ke I needed about 8 months and a bonnet repaint to find what i was looking for.
The hub comes with the steering wheel but i don't think it will be a fit. Any input regarding the use of a removeable hub highly appreciated.
apology for the low qty of pics. The camera is a cheap one (AA cell type) and struggles the flashlight option pretty bad but it gives you an idea what is in my head LOL!! Mini-me forgot to place the caps on the markers but I managed to squeeze some colors out of them finally. The markers, not her
Nice steering weel you got there too! I cannot see the brake stop in this pic. I didn't knew the chasis was this narrow LOL!! Now I see a quick release makes sense here. thx for the link might be very helpfull. when I have measured the PCD I can order this one.
How do you deal with the horn wiring route? This seemed to be not too easy to route and because of this I used the original bike switches on the tR1ke (and they are water resistant).
The horn is wired through the Stalk assembly and through the Quick release. I will use a Stebel Nautilus horn going through a relay as it takes up to 12 amps of current to run. I have a circuit using 12 gauge wire to run this and the lights directly from the battery using a 20A fuse for that circuit. I will get you some info I put together how everything is wired using the Fiat ignition switch.
I just noticed the quick releae has horn wiring on it. That's great to disconnect the steering wheel. However, the wiring will turn 2.5times around the steering rod and this part I'd like to see some details of. I recon spiral wiring needs to be used here but that'll hang in between the driver's knees right? This issue can be adressed to the Sparco steering wheels where push buttons are on the brackets and I have no clue how to convert this to gear change buttons for a quickshifter on my tR1ke. A paddle system between the hub and steering wheel works identical but VERY expensive.
The stalk assembly has a round wiper and contact assembly that turns inside for the horn. The steering hub is keyed so it turns the contact it has a two prong plug that connects to the quick release hub for the horn. The quick release hub has two spring loaded contacts. The steering wheel side also has two contacts that are connected to the horn button. you do not see any wiring as it in all internal inside the hub.
Hope that explains it OK.
I also got 95% of my loom done today cutting out the connectors and redoing some of the wiring really cleaned it up. It hardly looks like I have anything installed.
Your steering hub tutorial is perfect just seen your front loom and it looks like a sharm. worth cloning LOL!!
Just went to the painter and got the ral codes: 3020(traffic red),2004 (pure orange) and 5015 (sky blue).
Steering wheel has been shipped. Basically there is nothing left to do exept reading threads and finding black lights, indicators and mirrors. it's temptingg to clone Scott's choice. he did an exellent job on this. Very tempting...