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Post by edvb on Aug 22, 2013 23:31:12 GMT
Is that still a 300mm or a 320mm?
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Post by erik on Aug 23, 2013 15:40:59 GMT
Horizontal 310mm,vertical 280mm, diagonal 330mm. The size feels spot on.
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Post by roger32849 on Sept 21, 2013 23:47:56 GMT
Erik
I have been tied up with a lot of projects this summer (along a very wet holiday). I have started to do more work on the Eco-Exo as time permits. My wiring is all sorted out, but NOT CONNECTED. It dos run and start quite nicely. The 2008 motor purrs like a kitten. What I have to do is simply splice a LOT of wires. I bought an extra salvage wiring harness and trying to maintain color code and wire gauge integrity. I removed all unnecessary wires, like the plugs for grip heat and any other unwanted lines.
Since my test build is in the basement, I will have to partially disassemble it in order to clear the outside stairs. I believe if I remove the front suspension and place a wide board on the steps I can make it out. It is only about 8 or 9 steps and about 44 inches wide.
The last photo I posted is actually a video of the first start up. Just double click the photo and it will start. , the fuel injection system was absolutely dry, so it took a few shots of starting fluid to get any POP out of the engine. It seems sensors like to have all systems go before it fires. Of course I didn't record all that unnecessary priming.
Anyway, it is about ready for the paint shop. A few mor solder joints and some more tabs and I will be all set. Thanks for the nice comments you posted on my build.
Best regards
Roger
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Post by erik on Sept 23, 2013 16:12:09 GMT
Hi Roger! I didn't realise those pics are all vdo footage! That's very nice to post up here! I had a lot of fun watching them and they might be of help for me later  I wasn't aware you were building in a restricted area. It seems The Exo is very narrow without the a-arms on it and should be moved outdoors easely. Do reconsider to remove the oil before taking her up. not sure if the engine likes the angles you'll be forcing him on the stairs. it's ggreat to read the wiring is doable. i thought this was the hardest part of the build but I guess not. On my Tr1ke loom i did extend most wires instead of modifying the internals of the loom which at that moment seemed to be the most comfortable and reliable way to modify the loom. With spiral hose i am able to open the added loom easely if needed and because of this I kept my wires all black which worked like a charm. However, I did take a lot of care to place all connectors and hardware on the loom high and dry to minimize failure. Because of this I am in favour to extend the engine sensor wires and not the loom side. I guess this is just me picking on little details LOL!!! I am looking forward to receiving my kit. Scott is nearly finished with my kit and I hope a fellow tR1ke builder will be heading to RTR with his tR1ke for MVSA within a few weeks. He likes to bring my kit back home which is great service  I am looking forward how my GRP parts turned out. I chose Sky Blue which appears to be a trendy color these days. Have you made up your mind about the colorsheme? br, Erik |
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Post by roger32849 on Oct 3, 2013 1:44:55 GMT
Hello Erik......
I thought I would graze through the MEV PROBOARDS a bit. I will try to answer some questions and address concerns. My color scheme is yellow gel coat and gloss black chassis. As we speak, the chassis is upside down getting the belly pan fitted, and trimmed. I need to do a little perimeter trimming and filing and tweak the front curve a bit but it is almost ready for the powder coating to be applied.
When I take the engine up the stairs my son and I will be doing it. Engine will always stay in the upright position. When everything finally arrives upstairs in the garage it will be assembled after the coating process and after I return from going down to Alabama and Georgia. I will silicone wrap my wiring harness... Double check all connectors, run 2 additional 30 amp circuits for lights and horn and complete the harness as a finished product.
The most difficult part of the build was nothing to do with the kit or the wiring.... Pretty straight forward stuff.. My headache was adapting a 2008 donor to the chassis, then buying all the extra parts to blend it all together. It is wise not to deviate to far from Scott's/ Stuarts design parameters on major stuff like that. Once I get it back from the powder coasters, the assembly will be straight forward and I am hopeful for a few test rides before it gets to cold..
I put new pictures on my page if you care to check........
Best Regards
Roger
Worcester Massachusetts
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Post by erik on Oct 3, 2013 15:31:50 GMT
Hi Roger, yellow and gloss black is nice! I'm looking forward to the end result already. I hope my 2004 engine will be a drop in fit. I don't think my injector shows tank issues but the airbox is more forward as Scotts version. i can live with a hole in the bulkhead plate or no plate at all. We'll see The kit should be ready by now. i try to get her home with some RTR costumers from Holland. I'm working on that but this might take a while. grtz, Erik |
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Post by erik on Oct 19, 2013 18:47:58 GMT
Yes! Yesterday the kit arrived at home! The kit has been packed with great care. I haven't seen this for a long time in industrial packaging! All grp parts have been packed multiple times in bubble foam and all small parts have been packed with great care as well! Even a decal set and cd-rom has been included in the kit. The chasis has been islolated from rain so well, only a smaal part on the lower pipe has been corroded during poor weather during shipping which is easely be sanded off. The grp color turned out very well. in sunlight the true teint is in between light blue and stock blue. Light blue seems to be a rage incars lately and tough I did fancy the Gulf color sheme I'm happy the "sky blue" is a more timeless color. The sky blue is light enough to use an orange chasis but i am slightly in doubt to go for red instead for makeing it easier for selling (yeah right, when I'm shrunk,deaf and blind ) A silver chasis looks neat too but I'd like this one to be euhm... noticed LOL!! My tR1ke will be converted to dutch plates within a few days and it's very likely she will be home soon. The garage is a bit small and I will have to store the chasis for a moment and need to do some minor work on the tR1ke first (calibrate speedo healer, add a ground switch, make the engine start reliable). So basically cleaning up the donor parts and start orientating where to start first before welding the seat brackets. I guess the pedals and steering column need to go in first. later! Erik     |
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Post by edvb on Oct 20, 2013 0:36:30 GMT
Hi Erik
Glad you got your kit in such good shape. Scott does a good job the same as Kevin did on mine. Scott will take care of you if you have any problems as he sure helped me out in getting some parts we cannot get here in the states.
Now the fun begins. Your engine is the same year as mine so you will find some duplicate problems that I ran into. No worry's, as the are all solvable with different solutions depending what you want to do.
Roger's is being powder coated at this time and I am not far behind. Mine will have all the final welds done next week and will be at the painters as soon as that is done. I should have the frame back around the first week of November so feeling pretty good about that.
I checked out your tr1ke again and I must say you sure have an eye for color coordination. It is just beautiful and well thought out.
I think you will really like this one and it will grow on you every day. The problem with that is you end up getting more ideas to incorporate in the frame and pretty soon you might be where I am at.
Good luck and I will be glad to help any way I can.
Edward
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Post by erik on Oct 21, 2013 20:44:14 GMT
Hi Edward, Yesterday i did find some issues on my chasis. The shock and pivot brackets are off position to match my 2004 engine. i adressed this to Scott and we will work on this. The tank brackets need to be repositioned and remodeled to my tank and if lucky I could reuse the original airbox. The seat square tubes might have to be repositioned as well but I might be able to weld some strips on it to fit the seat rails. Strangely enough the kart chasis drawing shows the rails mounting brackets being level but this isn't very comfortable. The front needs to be raised by 15mm or so. I'd like to build mine as straight forward as possible but the restricted area forces us to show some creativity LOL!!! I'm looking forward to your coated chasis. I think it will look good with your setting. Thx again for liking ny tR1ke the choice of color setting and wheel design was primary based on easy cleaning. The wine red is still dark red in sunlight and dust isn't too noticable. Ditto for anthraxite,silver and black. The exo will be very bright      |
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Post by edvb on Oct 22, 2013 22:26:22 GMT
Great start Erik!
Yes, you will find some issues but most are pretty easy to solve. The gas tank issue will be a little more involved. Roger was able to cut reshape and have his re-welded to make his fit. I made a new one so you will have some options. Once the engine is fitted correctly you will be able to move to the next task.
We just finished welding a few more tab's on mine including one for the AM/FM antenna mount. The stud for the GPS is mounted so not too much longer for the painter to do his thing.
Edward
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Post by roger32849 on Oct 23, 2013 2:59:20 GMT
Erik
Welcome to the funhouse. The kit color you chose is very nice. Darker than sky blue, and lighter than medium blue. I think any color you would choose for the frame will be acceptable.. Silver, red or carbon fiber black would be great but not to keen on the orange idea though. Fad color schemes come and go quickly.
You have options when it comes to buying spares. There are differences in parts based on year groupings. If an older part doesn't work or fit then the newer one just might. Radiators, shocks, gauge clusters, and so on are all different, but will work on this trike.
I saw where the rear shock was about 3/8" (8-10mm) misaligned. This happened to me because my engine is a 2008 and the mount is in a different spot. Only slightly though!! What I did was buy the 1/4" (6mm) flat stock and remade and welded mine again, so the same might have to happen to you as well. Since the misalignment is very minor you might be able to keep it as it is..... That is if the shock functions properly. Mine isn't exactly a perfect match either even after welding in new mounts, but everything works quite well.
Between Ed and Me we have nearly completed out projects. I pick my frame up from the powder coater tomorrow. It is gloss black, red calipers and bright yellow gel coat panels.
If you have questions, ask Either of us, We both will be more than happy to answer. Again, welcome to the active build section of this forum.
Roger
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Post by erik on Oct 23, 2013 15:36:53 GMT
Having the chasis powdercoated doesn't mean it will be road legal soon LOL!!! Yes I could place the shock misaligned in the brackets and cope with side forces wearing parts out but considered taking a mile extra would give a smile on my face when it's completed. The color setting i have in mind isn't common seen in vehicles and I think this is pretty timeless and will match the design. The tank seems to have good clearance but the brackets need to be reshaped first. I do hope there will be space left to use the original airbox but I think I might be asking too much for now only cleaning the donorparts and staring to the front end how to make het pretty |
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Post by erik on Oct 27, 2013 20:35:45 GMT
I've been pretty busy this weekend on the Exo. I haven't made any progress on the shock brackets and started to the front ,thinking the only way to find the best location for the seat is to install the pedals and column first. It occured to me I am in need for the steering wheel hub and ordered one. Without this one cannot position the steering colun and cut and weld to lenght. I picked up the new tires, bought 1/2" unf bolts (hard to find),drilled the bottom ball joints, trimmed the wishbones and hubs,prefit the pedals. I mounted the brake cilinder. Need to link the cilinder with the brake pedal to set the pedal position. then it occured to me the throttle pedal lever is curved pretty strange. The pedall travel seems to be limmited by the shoe tip hitting the top of the throttle lever instead of the end of the lever. Like this is seems likely feet movement from throttle pedal to brake pedal gets obstructed by the throttle pedal lever itself.
Can somebody give some comment on the throttle pedal?
I delivered my steering column to the closest Fiat dealer to install a correct key switch in it to acctivate the steering lock. i should be able to pick her up later this week.
The urethane bushes (powerflex) I received are off dimension and I need time how to deal with this. for now it seems setting the pedals is the only thing I can do while waiting for new parts to arrive. Unfortunately, getting me long outer cables takes a drive I only can do on saturday. Basically this project is on hold exept for making a bolt list for the wishbones.
br,
erik
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Post by edvb on Oct 27, 2013 23:14:49 GMT
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Post by erik on Oct 30, 2013 17:18:57 GMT
Hey Edwin, Sorry for the late reply. I got a bit side tracked on the polybushes I received with the kit. These dimensionsare pretty much off. The wishbone holes are 28mm and the poly tubes are 29mm. The sleeve diameter is 19 and the bush hole (knurled bore) is 28.5mm. Not sure how to deal with this. Too bad this item is not a drop in fit. Thx for pics and link! I made a seat bracket and was able to test pedal throw to ease my mind. I think i have found a simple solution to the pedal stops. I need to get me a throttle cable first before I convert my thoughts to steel Too bad my seat had to be placed more closed to the rear bulckhead as intended. I liked to place the tank behind the seat but I need 1" more clearance to do this. perhaps will have a new tank made if the original tank doesn't fit on top of the engine. I received my new steering column key switch and nice bleu keys yesterday. pics soon . Not too much to show you. br, erik |
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