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Post by casesensitive on Jun 2, 2019 9:10:00 GMT
Wait, whatnow why's my **** that colour!?Someone's snuck cranberry juice into my tank. Answers on a postcard, I can't imagine how it got that colour. Fuel pump is brand new, fuel lines are new nitrile hoses, rail is aluminium, as is the tank. Presume the colour is coming from iron oxide somewhere, but only the FPR and parts of the fuel level gauge are ferous.  
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Post by casesensitive on Jun 2, 2019 9:14:35 GMT
fittingThe next step will be cutting out the old hole and dropping this new ring in, which will require welding aluminium, which I've had very little success at with my current setup. The first hour or two of test welds did not go well. I tried different settings for everything; amps, pulse, frequency, on-time, AC balance, gas flow. I cleaned everything religiously. Mush, just mush all the time. Ultimately it came down to my torch angle, I was getting the filler in the arc before the puddle. Started to improve after that, but I'd say I have a few more hours to nail it down before I go at my only fuel tank.     
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Post by casesensitive on Jun 17, 2019 7:52:43 GMT
Trying to sort two problems this weekend, red fuel and removable, sealed tank lid/ring. The existing fuel sender arm had been extended, and was an amalgam of 3 pieces of steel of different grades. I reckon the only place the red colouring could be coming from was one of the welds, likely with mild steel filler. I took 1 nice clean piece of 316L 2.4mm filler and bent it into the right shape, this is the first draft, which needed some extra bends to clear the tank edges in the installed position.  Test fit  No turning back now  Clamp and clean, wipe with acetone and chill blocks to absorb as much heat as practical  Not exactly insta-ready, but it won't leak   Gasket-maker to seal the threaded M4s and to stick down the rubber gasket ring I made    Put the red petrol back in to make sure it turned over, which it reluctantly did; battery definitely needs a new one, but that's a job for closer to the finish line. Dodgy fuel will be flushed through with nice clean stuff next weekend. Added an led in series with the fuel pump wiring, so it illuminates when the pump is being told to run, acts as a nice sense-check for ECU issues. I might do a whole board (1 injector, 1 for each side of the coil pack, fuel pump, vvt) and have a little LED diag board like MSI motherboards from the 00s. |
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Post by casesensitive on Jun 25, 2019 17:22:48 GMT
Few small jobs today Flushed the petrol with nice light pee coloured stuff, all grand. Have a feeling my fuel level isn't reacting though, Koso showing full with 5L in the tank, not looking forward to dismantling to check. Cut the hole for my filler into the new full-height rear bulkhead, and drilled holes for the fuel filter bracket. Replaced my 3 wooden coolant pipe separators with 2 Stauff clamps, front one went right in without the lower bracket, replaced with a captive M8 nut instead.  Rear one wasn't tall enough to be supporting the pipes (not that they need it), so I tacked on some 10mm mild underneath   I mostly allowed myself to be paralyzed with the dependency chain of jobs needed to do before I could permanently fit my harnesses, hard to crack on when every job seems to depend on another one I forgot about.  |
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Post by kiwicanfly on Jun 25, 2019 22:24:23 GMT
Have a feeling my fuel level isn't reacting though, Koso showing full with 5L in the tank, not looking forward to dismantling to check. How does the Koso know how big the tank is and what's in it? Do you not just need to calibrate it? You do with Dash2 Tip though, don't set zero at zero which is what I did then find out I run out 9f fuel with 2l on the dash  Oh and as for dismantling it - dead easy if you use a clamp ring and o'ring seal, takes two minutes. |
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Post by casesensitive on Jul 2, 2019 13:43:51 GMT
I calibrated it a few months ago, with my Spyda, but it looks like there's a wiring issue since then. It reads full when the wires are completely disconnected, so something's got awry since Jan. I cut about half of the wires running from front to back, because they weren't routed through chassis box section, rather around it, where they'll foul the tunnel. I took the opportunity to extend a few that were a bit short, and to put bullet connectors on a few should they need to be moved again.
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Post by phil01 on Oct 19, 2019 21:42:42 GMT
Hi there I am looking for the bearing support for steering column that mounts to bulkhead. Do you know where I can get cheers phil
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Post by casesensitive on Oct 31, 2019 16:42:34 GMT
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Post by miller on Jan 12, 2020 16:11:57 GMT
Hi there, tried to PM you with an Irish registration query but as a new user I dont think its allowed I guess until I have a number of interactions under my belt!
The dreaded registration! Whats your plans with it, register it new on the new VIN plate and suffer VRT/Vat etc? Have you spoken to Revenue/Shannon before I start pestering!
I want to set a clear avenue before I purchase the Kit and Donor....
Thanks in advance.
Mike
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Post by casesensitive on Jan 29, 2020 18:03:47 GMT
Hi Mike, the road is very unsure alright. I'm involving with the Irish Kit Car Club, and I'm supposed to be resurrecting ikcc.ie which ought to have all the info in the members section when its done, but we're having difficulty getting the domain registration details from the guy who was dealing with it. In short, yes, I've met the NSAI, who are basically happy to recognise the UK IVA, even after Brexit as an appropriate testing standard. You actually get an Irish IVA using the UK IVA, and you need some extra info like cornerweights that aren't going to be on that cert. Getting it on the road is an entirely different proposition. If money is no object, you go the Irish registration route; build car, register it with Revenue as a new build (so long as chassis is new, it's a new car, rules different to the UK). Then you're paying VRT of % the OMSP of the car, based on the CO2 of the engine, and potentially also VAT on the new car of 23%. So if they think your car is worth €15k on the Irish market, and you used an ST170 engine like me that's 34% or about 5 grand in VRT and about 3 more in VAT and you get a nice 201/202 reg. Or there's the murky register-it-in-the-UK and bring it in on a straight VRT basis, and hope that the age-related plate (you're better off with an old one for this route) you get yields a lower OMSP, and no VAT. You need to be legally resident in the UK and able to prove it with utility bills though. Still looking at about €2,500- 3,000 in VRT based on a low valuation with a polluting engine (212g/km). Might be worht springing for a small, efficient turbo'd Ecoboost to bring this down. Either way, if you can't afford €20k over the next 4/5 years, I would genuinely advise buying something with an Irish plate already, you can always strip it down and make it better. And I'd check if you cna get insurance too, the lads in the club are all really struggling now, and I've not been much help not getting the website up and running. Record every time an ad for any kind of kit car goes up, as OMSP is very hard to prove when there are none on sale! I have considered doing the IVA anyway, but not registering the car, and just keeping it for track days. Stephen (building a Locost in Garristown, Zebrano on Boards) has all but abandoned registering his for the road too, money is just too tight. I've just bought a house and had a baby, so neither of those things are likely any time soon unless my Lotto ticket comes in. |
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Post by casesensitive on Jan 29, 2020 18:10:24 GMT
End of an era! After nearly 7 years, my kit is finally coming to live at the same house as me. Bought the house (which had to have a garage) in July, and I've been doing it up since, including knocking out an internal wall and putting another roller door in the back wall so car can be driven / pushed through to the garden to give more space to work on large pieces.  New space is only 2.8m x 6.4m so optimisation is key, lots of tall, narrow storage (3x 1.8m bays, 2.1m tall) and 4 wheel dollies to push the car laterally. Covered the floor in some 12.5mm rubber matting from a gym, nice and cosy underfoot. Got some crazy bright lighting too, 8x 6,000 lumen adjustable LEDs for a bright-as-the-surface-of-the-sun vibe. Tool boxes not yet moved over, time now extremely restricted by crying baby.    |
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Post by casesensitive on Apr 21, 2020 15:49:14 GMT
I put in a heroic Daddying shift Fri-Sat, doing two full nights of feeds (she's an every 2 hours kind of baby) and the deepest clean of wooden floorboards in this house's history, earning myself a few precious hours out in the garage nag-free on Sunday. Oh how my life has changed. Anyway, since I last worked on the car, the second PowerVamp 22 Clubsport battery is f3cked too, holding steady at 0.17V. Dropping in the recently replaced 72Amp battery from my DERV Alfa made it chug a few times but there appeared fundamentally to be a current bandwidth issue. I weighed the option of simply welding an m8 nut to the chassis to create a ground point and running my existing 70mm^2 short ground to there, but my welding plant and all my stock are the other side of a locked-down city, with Gardaí manning polite roadbloacks telling people to stay at home, so I can't actually go and get it for the next few weeks or months. The postal systems are still working though, so throw more money at the problem! 485A cable for both positive and ground, proper terminals and a possibly-too-big battery. Looking forward to finding time to put it all in.     |
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Post by casesensitive on Aug 17, 2020 7:58:45 GMT
Having quite a few fuel pumps fail (4? 5?) inside the tank, I thought I'd do something a little more permanent. My fuel pressure regulator is also reading more like 2 bar of pressure than the 3-3.5 it should and used to, so either the fleabay Focus pump is a bit rubbish, or the reg is off. So I bought a proper Walbro external pump, and the plan is to have simple fuel hoses run from the new Focus sender lid down to the base which will be screwed into my tank insert. Return is back the same way, down to it's little receptacle in the base. Part 1 though, match my existing M4 bolt pattern to the new lid. Used a gym mat and some graph paper, got a much closer fit than the old one, and while I was at it, I added split washers and nuts to the tank-side of any bolts that ran free, giving a much more solid fit. Should really have done all of them, not just the ones that were wobbily. Took the chance to reposition the lid and connectors so they face straight back towards the bulkhead for neatness. Sure why not?     |
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Post by casesensitive on Aug 17, 2020 8:04:26 GMT
This is essentially the only pre-pump filter I'll have now and I think I've lost any anti-slosh capabilities the Ford system would have had.  Taller 'tower' is the return, centre of focus one is the feed   Angled the sender arm so it no longer fouls the tank edge. Tank insert looking pretty grimy, this is after a petrol and meths wash. I took an outline of it on some firmer 1.5mm stainless sheet, but thought with limited time I'd concentrate on getting it working rather than perfect   Fuel hoses were coming in at a gammy angle, so I cut new ones in a better spot. I have little grommets to fill the old holes.  All snugged up  Didn't have a chance to test, as I have to wire up the Walbro yet, and my 4 hour parenting break had come to an end. See you again in a month  |
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Post by casesensitive on Mar 18, 2021 14:19:24 GMT
Instead of working on the car, I've been building a bench to build stuff on. Like the old saying goes, "why do you need a TIG welder? So I can make a trolley for it..."
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