The almost clear lens LED ones are okay, but crap in direct sunlight, I had a much better set of them on my Boom trike and they were still really bad with direct sun on them. If you want LED all in one clusters, look at The stuff fitted to Buses, they are blinding, which is what you want ideally. Rubberlite springs to mind as a manufacturer of such lights and Hella too...
Although my Cheesburgers are not that attractive, they are super bright LED's.
So I think i'm as prepped as I can be, my kit is ready this Saturday and I can't wait😜 My rear lights arrived today and I've made a water header tank, I will hopefully put some pictures up soon that actually have the start of a tr1ke build and not just some random parts 😁
In the Netherlands we call it: the silence before the storm...
Late 2010; Got interested, visited RTR & ordered a tR1ke February 2011; Purchased and dismantled a R1 April 2011; Started building June 2012; UK Approval by RTR July 2012; NL Approved and licensed! August 2012 and on: Driving & fine tuning.... August 2015; Sold my Tr1ke. Up for a new project.
My kit has now arrived and my nice clear garage is looking rather more busy but as long as I'm tidy while I work then all should be just fine.👍 I decided to start by dry fitting the back end and sorting out a bolts list. The front wishbones have gone for powder coating along with cycle wing mounts and pedals.
I think it's whatever RTR can get hold of. I believe mine are from a ford focus. Not sure about others.
The front uprights have been designed specifically for the MK1 Focus rear hubs from a disc braked car.
This is because they were originally designed for the Rocket and Sonic 7 both of which are based on the MK1 Focus. They only required a small mod to the boss for the trackrod end to make them suitable for the tR1ke.
So definitely NOT simply a case of 'whatever RTR can get hold of'
Order MK1 Focus rear wheel bearings for a disc braked car and you will have the correct bearings. They are about £10 from any motor factors.
When assembled it isn't an eyecatcher. Better invest in nice alloy wheels and calipers or use the money for painting the bonnet and wings which will really raise the over all appearance. If you rerust the original hubs and paint them with hammerite twice they look pretty decent.
Thanks for the advice I hope to fit just alloy bearing carriers to shave some more weight off. I have made a bit of progress over the last couple of weeks though, Got a gear linkage made with 3 ratio options to start me off Nice and clean with bleed pipe removed Swing arm spacer made Gear lever in and I hope to keep it everything inside the tubes so it will look clean and simple without a tunnel Back light units and header tank brackets sorted Master resivours going here just need to make a bracket and I could do with some master cylinders that I'm waiting for to sort hoses. And I think my favourite view so far :-) Also decided to give in with drivers seat adjuster as I think it makes the seat a bit high and it seems difficult to get the seat far enough forward and no I'm not short :-) I think the column will need extending quite a bit too, also is there a standard way to connect the column to wrack as it isn't obvious to me without doing quite a lot of cutting and welding??
I like your rear light housings, not a 5 min job I bet.
Regarding the seating position... I had rtr position the chassis cross braces that the seats bolt to welded in 6inch further forward than std. My seats bolt directly onto them so the base of the seats are at floor level. I'm 5ft 7in and the foot controls are just right. My steering wheel is a little further than ideal but if it was much closer my elbows hit the side rails
If you look at any of the build threads we have had to cut and weld to connect the rack pinion clamp to the column uj. It would better I think if this part was pre made and came with the kit as its a part that needs welding and not just drilling and bolting.