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Post by edwinwl on Feb 15, 2013 19:45:37 GMT
Before cleaning head lights: After cleaning head lights: 4x M6 bolts to take the nosecone off: Next job is to clean up this spaghetti:
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Post by erik on Feb 16, 2013 8:05:13 GMT
You really have been updating your tR1ke lately! Do you have more modifications planned? Looking forward to your progress!
br, Erik
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Post by edwinwl on Feb 16, 2013 9:37:05 GMT
One future project can be: paining all blue parts into some fancy flashy metallic blue. Just an idea..... Original, plain tR1ke: V -striped tR1ke: ^ -striped tR1ke: = -striped tR1ke: || -striped tR1ke: | | -striped tR1ke: | + | -striped tR1ke: left | + | -striped tR1ke:
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Post by erik on Feb 16, 2013 10:15:10 GMT
Wow, lotsa options here! Hard to make a choice. With my wheels it worked quite well to cancel out the ones I didn't like which left only a few good alternatives. I think you need to proceed like this too.
Yeah flashy metallic sounds good! might be nice to add spikles to the metallic. I recon orange might be wild but clear aluminum can be nice too. For my bonnet I did reconsider metal flakes (wide variety in colors!) but the many layers of clear coat may crack underheat on a polyester surface which lead to gun metal for me.
nice thoughts!
Erik
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Post by erik on Feb 16, 2013 10:19:02 GMT
Hmmm, clevage V-style, coming along from the sides to the centre front might suit these checkered strips too. give it a try!
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Post by edwinwl on Feb 22, 2013 20:18:59 GMT
All electronics works very well, time to finalize the wiring under the nose cone. Labeled all wiring, can be handy for future diagnosing or modifications. I used original bike wiring with car donor steering column switch. I used no extra relays. For other current and future Tr1ke builders: With this configuration basically all wiring "intelligence" is at this location. Easy accessible high up in the nose. From this location I extended all wiring to the engine. In total I used 4x 7 wire poly urethane cable also used for car trailers. PU cable is very robust and can handle higher temperatures than standard PVC isolated cables. Not unimportant: PU cables are widely used therefore relative cheap. I recommend this configuration of wiring. Added switch gear: - Hazard switch
- Engine kill switch
- Engine start switch
- One fuse for powering hazard switch and 12v plug.
Before: After:
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Feb 23, 2013 9:38:30 GMT
I never like to look under my dash, the wires make for an interesting looking city on mine, or more like a spaghetti explosion :-)
Yours is very neat :-)
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Post by edwinwl on Mar 2, 2013 16:35:23 GMT
Installed a gear indicator and got a fancy key hanger:
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Post by edwinwl on Mar 2, 2013 16:39:51 GMT
Rik pointed me out that licence plate legislation has changed in the Netherlands. (starting January 2013) Motorbike format is now allowed. So I exchanged my old plate 11x52 cm by a new one 14x21 cm. It meant I had to change my rear frame... As in the picture it is the lowest position legally allowed. (5 degrees of free sight downwards.)
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2013 12:05:12 GMT
Have you painted that steering cowling with Tar? It does not seem up to the standard you have built the TR1KE to? :-)
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Post by edwinwl on Mar 3, 2013 12:50:19 GMT
No tar. Black glossy hammerite paint... (it's the only black paint I have, for the moment) It's recession over here, So I can't afford a can of black mat paint.
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Post by slugshot on Mar 3, 2013 13:00:16 GMT
I feel sorry for the goldfish in the key ring he has to look at it 24hours a day ;D.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 3, 2013 16:20:03 GMT
I feel sorry for the goldfish in the key ring he has to look at it 24hours a day ;D. Thats funny, yes its a recession over here too.... :-)
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Post by edwinwl on Mar 3, 2013 17:17:57 GMT
You are also looking through the window 24h /day?
:-P
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Post by edwinwl on Mar 3, 2013 17:19:14 GMT
BTW it's no goldfish.
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