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Post by edwinwl on Nov 5, 2012 20:42:40 GMT
This evening also installed an almost new rear sprocket of 47 teeth:  Again polished and installed:  Standard and old ratio: 43:16 = 2.6875 New ratio: 47:15 = 3.1333 With this new ration the top speed goes down from theoretical 270 km/h to 230 km/h. (For our Imperial oriented readers: 170 mph to 146 mph.) However I believe it will ease the clutch and first gears. Speedo healer will correct Odo meter reading. |
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Post by edwinwl on Nov 5, 2012 20:59:09 GMT
This winter my list of to do items: - My steering has some free play. I want to fix it.
- Lowering the rear end support for license plate and rear lights.
- Chopping my exhaust, Venom style.
- Installing a gear indicator.
- Installing a camera mount.
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Post by slugshot on Nov 5, 2012 21:09:09 GMT
Hi Edwin... is the new link from a 2004+ r6, I compared all r1/r6 links and the early r6 is 10mm shorter than the r1 but unfortunately its too wide to fit into the chassis mount. But the one I think you have is the later r6 that is the same width as the r1 but is only a little shorter. I cannot wait for your feedback now you've put a 47t on  Surely you will use your speedohealer now  With a 15/46 I set mine at -21.2 and it reads the same as my tom tom up to 140mph Cheers Kevin |
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Post by edwinwl on Nov 6, 2012 18:25:49 GMT
I asume all dog bones of Yamaha R6 from 2003 up to 2007 are like these?
( or I must have been lucky?)
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Post by slugshot on Nov 6, 2012 21:17:09 GMT
Hi Edwin...I'm not exactly sure when they changed i can only go by the ones at the shop. but 04+ will fit. (Lucky) no... more like skillfully chosen |
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Post by erik on Nov 7, 2012 16:39:20 GMT
This winter my list of to do items: - My steering has some free play. I want to fix it.
- Lowering the rear end support for license plate and rear lights.
- Chopping my exhaust, Venom style.
- Installing a gear indicator.
- Installing a camera mount.
think twice about some mods. APK for motorcycles will get to us in short time notice... Because of this I am considering to mount my stainless E silencer(+dBkiller) for approval and ship the original can along with the tR1ke to get a registered silencer. |
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Post by edwinwl on Nov 7, 2012 17:49:19 GMT
Hi Erik,
Thanks for the warning. There are plenty second hand original silencers on ebay or Dutch marktplaats. One of those will be used.
My tR1ke has UK approval so it is allowed to make 108dB of music. Standard is 96 or 98 dB.
With current configuration:
Rear lights are light house style.
And license plate is billboard style.
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vtR1k
Full
I'm a trike lover...
Posts: 398
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Post by vtR1k on Nov 7, 2012 19:51:01 GMT
Apk for motorcycles is irrelevant for the tr1ke, since it is a car with a low weight. I think it is no issue yet.
Under pressure of the EU, Apk for bikes will proceed unfortunately because in a lot of (not western) EU countries the motorbikes are often in poor condition.
I think the light weight cars are not subject to this survey yet...
Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515m using proboards
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Post by erik on Nov 7, 2012 20:25:05 GMT
I am not preaching: loud pipes saves lives (have open silencers on my Monster and 900SSie) but for safety reasons this may be a valid choics on an ultra low vehicle we have! Because of new regulations I picked up some used original silencers from marktplaats now they are cheap So you will keep blue cans? |
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Post by edwinwl on Nov 7, 2012 21:04:19 GMT
So you will keep blue cans? Of course, a blue can. Want my tr1ke to be calm by colors. (Black, grey and dark blue.) But wild by performance. |
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Post by edwinwl on Nov 9, 2012 18:06:54 GMT
This afternoon tested the new sprocket ratio. Car is much less itchy when driving away. 120km/h is about 6000 rpm.
Speedohealer is set at -24,0%
Tightened the steering rack, added more grease into the steering rack, much better now. But still not perfect.
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 9, 2012 18:18:40 GMT
I just have a bit of play in my steering hub, so I think I may sleeve it up with Feeler gauge metal strips, to take up the slack, this must be because the hub is cheaper cast alloy. Not sure if spending more on an OMP one will fix it, or be just the same.
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Post by edwinwl on Nov 9, 2012 19:05:41 GMT
I fixed my steering hub using tape to fill up space and lock tight glue to fix the central bolt.
Holds perfectly.
With my tR1ke: The coupling that is welded has some free play on one of the four joints. I guess it got to hot while welding.
Will buy a new one and do the welding again, covering the joints with a wet towel for cooling.
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Post by erik on Nov 9, 2012 19:50:37 GMT
I welded a nut on the hub and a bolt cancelles out the free play. Works like a charm, only I have to use a headless bolt or the head will collide with the brake pedal. Downside is I am not able to mechanically lock the headless bolt but need locktite which is in violation with MVSA. Pic has been posted in my thread.
br,
erik
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Deleted
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2012 10:39:26 GMT
I fixed my steering hub using tape to fill up space and lock tight glue to fix the central bolt. Holds perfectly. With my tR1ke: The coupling that is welded has some free play on one of the four joints. I guess it got to hot while welding. Will buy a new one and do the welding again, covering the joints with a wet towel for cooling. Cheers Edwin, Yeah thats a good starting point I think. I will try that when I feel a bit stronger ;D I have got use to it, but its not good ;-) |
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