tR1ke build, in the Netherlands #2

[slugshot]

Hi Edwin, you will probably find your clutch ok once you put a teflon lined cable on. I had a similar problem with a non teflon lined throttle cable, it totally transformed it with a lined cable.
Also have you changed the cable position on your clutch peddle, I moved mine to about 35mm from the pivot to try and make the action less in or out, it seemed to have helped with a lot less stalling when pulling away and i think its lighter to depress as well.
Cheer, kev

[edwinwl]

While waiting for my clutch cable, I aligned my car.

First I added about 85kg of mass.


Then the alignment as discribed by vtRik:


The space between both lines is 190 cm.
RR2 = RR1 = RL1 = RL2 = 86,6 cm
FR1 = FL1 = 7,4 cm
FR2 = FR2 = 8,9 cm
FR3 = FR3 = 6,8 cm

Camber is about 1cm in (negative camber). Measured on the rim. Down is out, up is more in.

Will see how the tr1ke will handle....

Tryed to reroute clutch cable. No really effect. Removed the cable. Redesigned parking brake bracket and clutch stopper bracket. Old ones were bend.

[vtR1k]

From my experience, 6 mm difference between Flr1 and Flr3 each wheel (=12 mm in total) is extremely much... I think you should bring it back to about 1 mm each wheel... Normal road setting for a car is mostly 0 mm...

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[edwinwl]

I have no car align experience. (I am just a humble salesman.....)

Thank you for suggesting! It's appreciated. Will let you know about my findings.

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[edwinwl]

Using my calculator....

15" frontwheels => 381mm diameter of the wheel rim

6 mm on 381 mm = (tan-1(6/381) = 0.90 degrees
4 mm on 381 mm = (tan-1(3/381) = 0.60 degrees
2 mm on 381 mm = (tan-1(3/381) = 0.30 degrees
1 mm on 381 mm = (tan-1(1/381) = 0.15 degrees
0,5 mm on 381 mm = (tan-1(1/381) = 0.075 degrees

After vtRik his suggestion did some extra Google, I found a few hyperlinks:
www.hotrod.com/techarticles/chassis/hrdp_0411_wheel_alignment_guide/viewall.html
www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=4

Rear wheel drive (toe in) examples:
Mazda Miata / MX5: toe in: 0,075 degrees
Ford F150: toe in: 0,100 degrees
Triumpf spitfire: toe in 0,8 to 1,6mm

Front wheel drive (Neutral or toe out) examples:
Toyota Camry: -0,1 to 0,1 degrees

[edwinwl]

Fitted new clutch cable and aligned the car.
Made a few test runs.

Clutch is perfect now (as predicted by Slugshot) and this car is fast........

It almost scares me. ;D

[edwinwl]

Hmm. Today took the tR1ke for a ride. This afternoon the engine runs on 3 cylinders....

Will change the spark plugs...

[vtR1k]

Auch...
I advise you to find a manual somewhere. I bought a digital one on Marktplaats, for €7,-. Otherwise, order a Haynes Manual...
Indeed, start with the spark plugs. When you remove the old ones, the faulty cylinder should have a abnormal coloured spark plug. Normal colour is a kind of coffee cream alike.
You can find in the internet somewhere what abnormal colour comes with what common problem. Good luck...

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[edwinwl]

Yes I know.

First new spark plugs.
Second is bombine wire check.
Third is carburator cleaning. I do not have time for. Will see.

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[Deleted]

Also check the Coils, and Coil leads

[edwinwl]

Aug 28, 2012 16:20:13 GMT venom said:

Also check the Coils, and Coil leads

I think your coils and my bombines are the same. The transformers that creates the high voltage for the sparks plugs to spark.

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[Deleted]

Yeah sounds about right, you found the source of it yet?

[edwinwl]

4 new spark plugs did the job.

Now changing oil and filter. Oil is out. Engine is cooling down.

Advise for builders: service your engine before it is build into the Tr1ke.

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[Deleted]

Yes, I need to get a clutch at some point, so knowing that this means dropping the engine in the frame, I will replace it with a Barnett clutch and may even fit a new Stator.

[erik]

Aug 29, 2012 18:23:34 GMT edwinwl said:

4 new spark plugs did the job.

Now changing oil and filter. Oil is out. Engine is cooling down.

Advise for builders: service your engine before it is build into the Tr1ke.

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Hey Edwin,
Good to read your enging is doing fine now.
I'd like to know if there is a magnet on the M14 bolt?
I Purchased a oli Temp sensor but I am wondering where to place it. Removing a magnet seems to be a nono IMHO. I am not able to empty my engine without having my chasis at home for inquiries.

thx.
Erik