vtR1k
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I'm a trike lover...
Posts: 398
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Post by vtR1k on Jul 30, 2012 21:50:15 GMT
Great! Now only wait for a few nice days in stead of this rain season...
Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515m using proboards
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Post by edwinwl on Aug 2, 2012 20:28:53 GMT
This evening did some test sessions. Response of people is very positive. Lot's of thumbs ups and smiles. Here are my findings of the test sessions: - The 15 teeth front sprocket already gives a much better response when setting off in the first gear. Looks like a bigger rear sprocket is not necessary.
- Combination of 15 teeth sprocket at the front and the flat car tire gives an very acceptable +2 km/h deviation on the odo meter.
I have set my speedohealer back to a correction of 1,000x (no correction). Looks like I don't need my speedohealer at all.
- I reset the positioning of the parking brake caliper, it got hot and smelly while driving around.
- Also the rear hydraulic brake does not release properly.
The hydraulic brake switch stays activated.
I have removed the rear caliper and without a line connected to it it released just fine. So the master cylinder does not release properly?
- The clutch pedal feels rubbish.
Tomorrow I have a day off. So plenty time for tweaking! |
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Post by erik on Aug 3, 2012 7:09:07 GMT
Good progress!!
I was about to order a Speedo Healer but it seems could save some money here. The only downside is one increases top speed and decreases acceleration a little right?
Yeah, seems everybody needs to dial in the pedals and calipers.
greets!
Erik
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vtR1k
Full
I'm a trike lover...
Posts: 398
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Post by vtR1k on Aug 5, 2012 18:59:23 GMT
I have removed the rear caliper and without a line connected to it it released just fine. So the master cylinder does not release properly?
Maybe the rear master cylinder cannot return in its normal position. I had the same with the front cylinder. The solution is quite simple: adjust the cylinder rod, by screwing it more into the brake adjuster. |
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Post by edwinwl on Aug 6, 2012 10:49:57 GMT
Maybe the rear master cylinder cannot return in its normal position. I had the same with the front cylinder. The solution is quite simple: adjust the cylinder rod, by screwing it more into the brake adjuster. Will try. Thank you for suggesting. |
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Post by edwinwl on Aug 10, 2012 15:08:44 GMT
This afternoon more test runs.
Prior I adjusted the balance bar as Rik suggested. It sorted the heating rear brake.
This car is fast! Ridiculous fast on acceleration. Braking is like diving under the tarmac.
Power spinning rearwheel goes predictable. A bit accelleration through the corners and there she goes...
Sent from my GT-S5660 using proboards
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Post by edwinwl on Aug 11, 2012 12:17:33 GMT
Pictures! The brackets I made to fix the nose cone:   |
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Post by edwinwl on Aug 11, 2012 12:18:38 GMT
Made a spare clutch cable: Fixing is a combination of clamping and soldering.  |
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Post by erik on Aug 11, 2012 16:16:44 GMT
I don't think a spare cable is needed. The clutch lever needs only 20kg for movement. A 0.6mm fishing line can handle more. The clutch cable shouldn't wear out at all.
Those brackets look pretty rigid and will do fine!
grtz,
Erik
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Post by erik on Aug 11, 2012 16:20:19 GMT
Btw, You may reconsider to file a 3/4 radius in the corners of the body. This will cancel out possible tearing of the glass body or gelcoat/paint . Tearing is a natural weakness of sharp corners.
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vtR1k
Full
I'm a trike lover...
Posts: 398
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Post by vtR1k on Aug 11, 2012 18:04:33 GMT
Hey! Today was the first beautiful day out here! Save the tinkering for the rainy days!  Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515m using proboards |
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Post by edwinwl on Aug 13, 2012 10:35:30 GMT
Still fizzling around to get the clutch right. My clutch is operational but, in the slow 180 degree curve at the beginning of the clutch cable, there is too much friction. Hard to estimate but, pressing the pedal and activate the clutch takes about 100 kg force. Ordered parts to make myself the "mother of all clutch cables" at: www.cable-shop.nl/2,5 mm steel cable with teflon isert outer mantle should do the job of having a smooth clutch. Suggestions please! |
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Post by erik on Aug 13, 2012 16:10:55 GMT
Hard to estimate but, pressing the pedal and activate the clutch takes about 100 kg force. Suggestions please! Have a look at the linkage of my tR1ke. only 6kg pedal force needed. |
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Post by edwinwl on Aug 13, 2012 20:18:59 GMT
The ridiculous force needed to operate the clutch wonders me.
One of the evenings this week I will open the center tunnel to optimize the clutch cable route to lower internal friction.
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vtR1k
Full
I'm a trike lover...
Posts: 398
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Post by vtR1k on Aug 14, 2012 4:59:27 GMT
There must be a too tight bend or something? Also, try to lubricate the cable, it should help.
I can (must) operate it by hand and have no troubles doing that, even with the stiffer clutch springs I have installed... So, there must be a solvable problem somewhere...
Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515m using proboards
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