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Post by R2S on Dec 1, 2013 19:53:05 GMT
picking up on the comment 'not so hanndy' what exactly do you mean? My experience to date is that things are straight forward if:-
You have a basic understanding of diy (i.e. do you understand how things come apart and go back together) You minimise the amount of work (as per gwnwar comment - if you want something which is perfect then how long is a piece of string) You take on one job at a time, and you refer to the vast amount of info on this site, particularly the exocet stuff You have a basic tool kit, spanners, sockets, drills, grinder, etc Another major piece of kit is someone to help you as there are numerous jobs you simply cant do on your own, not without risking a cock up (body lift off donor being one).
If you aren't particularly handy then getting someone who is to build it for you shouldn't be that expensive as long as once again you cut your cloth accordingly.
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Post by R2S on Nov 28, 2013 11:45:21 GMT
The quality work continues and the condition of your donor parts looks so good I feel like scrapping my donor and starting again. Pictures are really helpful, could i be cheeky and ask for a few dimensions?
Do you think moving header tank over exhaust is likely to cause any probs?
Can i ask where you got fuel line and clips from?
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Post by R2S on Nov 21, 2013 23:09:07 GMT
Another couple of days to completion then?
Dark green does look good particularly in the sun, rain and sleet here in NW Derbyshire.
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Post by R2S on Nov 20, 2013 11:57:57 GMT
Car is a 98, 1.8.
Must confess, and this may seem like the wrong way to do things, i was going to build using complete loom; just to be sure i don't cut out anything i need.
I think i've used Rust Eze (or something like that in the past) i'll have a look at the motor factors in the morning.
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Post by R2S on Nov 19, 2013 15:43:29 GMT
Thanks for the advice, have the wd40 ready for next trip, might spend Thursday soaking and cleaning visible threads etc and leave over weak end for some real work one day next week.
On the subject of wiring two queries:-
1. There are a substantial number of unused connector blocks already, and whilst i probably won't need most of then i will be looking to use fog lights, any idea which is the connector i need to mark up?
2. The donor is fitted with an immobiliser with wires to door locks etc, originally i thought this would be a good addition for use in the kit but bearing in mind i won't have doors, boot etc i am thinking this might not be such a good idea. In the past my security has simply been a couple of cut off (kill) switches. Thoughts? clearly if i bin the system i will need to sort out the wiring (scary thought).
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Post by R2S on Nov 18, 2013 19:04:42 GMT
Ok first tentative steps taking it easy with the back and made a proper start on stripping the MX5.
Stripped the bumpers, all lights, front wings, seats, centre console and some of dash. took longer than expected due to seized screws and bolts (a reflection on the donor i am afraid).
I note the inner rear bumper is ali and it struck me that the curvature might be ideal as a start for my grill, looking to slice the box and the ribs to see if they are going to be of any use.
As i said didn't get as much done as i'd like as it started to turn dark and whilst i have loads of room in the workshop i have yet to install lighting, clearly a must for the winter months.
Next job is dash removal and doors before i start to build scaffold tower over car prior to body removal, dependant on weather i might put a bit of time in on Thursday.
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Post by R2S on Nov 17, 2013 10:44:33 GMT
I'm hoping 205 won't look too wide if i can get 80 profiles but if not i may well take advice on coming down to 185 80 15.
Any issues with wheel clearances around the brakes? Read somewhere that some wires (don't know if they are the same as those we have) won't fit over the 1.8 brakes (and mine is a 1.8 donor).
Too early to say i know but would be interested in any handling changes in going away from the stock MX5 design tyre, particularly as i plan to move even further away.
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Post by R2S on Nov 17, 2013 0:29:48 GMT
Are they the wheels from MEV? What size tyres have you fitted? I am looking for 80-82 profile and think i will have to go 205 to fit 7Js correctly. Current favourites are Vredestein 205 70 15 as i can't find any suitable width 80 profile.
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Post by R2S on Nov 7, 2013 19:54:10 GMT
Congratulations on getting the bushes in.....................oh on the promotion too.
Looking good, any chance of some close ups of the joints?
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Post by R2S on Nov 4, 2013 16:31:02 GMT
Thought I'd posted but can't find anything. Agree vents, and trim, look excellent, as does paint.
Any more pictures?
R2S
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Post by R2S on Nov 4, 2013 16:23:41 GMT
Just seen the pics, looking good. Confused re the bushes, sounds like you are installing in pieces rather than as complete units. I wouldn't heat arms with bushes in place but I'm not an expert. The long threaded bar washers and nuts has always worked for me, I've also used an hydraulic car jack and v large section of rsj and pushing within I section flanges.
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Post by R2S on Oct 29, 2013 18:05:17 GMT
Typical work is on hold as i popped my back last week whilst erecting scaffolding, in the absence of any physical work i've been busy scouring ebay and the like for various bits (see also other thread re karting suits). Have located, and bought, for next to nothing, a pair or period fog lamps (these will be fitted post IVA to ensure no slip ups). Nearly bought a period rev counter but realise that this may have to be a new item as i will need detail on how to set up. Looking at fairly high profile tyres (reversing a trend) and would welcome any thoughts on how wide to go. The wires from MEV are 7j x15 and i'm thinking 205 80 15, i would go skinnier but i don't think this is good practise. I've got a set of 205 16 wheels and tyres from an old discovery in the garage and will offer these up just to get a feel for the look and clearances. Wrinkle finish paint, red, for cam cover and inlet ordered and hammered finish paint, light green, ordered for subframes. Also looking at some fabricated wishbones but things are very quiet on this front. Thats all for the moment folks will post when something more substantial when i get back to stripping the mazda. GT
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Post by R2S on Oct 22, 2013 17:28:43 GMT
Mike
i'm building the car at my in-laws and they are just outside Glossop, only just started so little to show at moment but you are more than welcome to have a look. As you are probably aware MEV are at Mansfield not too far off M1 and the BRG demonstrator is a runner, i even managed to get Stuart to take me round the track which is next to their premises.
The Replicar, unlike the Exocet, covers most of the mazda donor parts and provides a space frame not unlike the original therefore without having a good look underneath people would be hard pressed to see a 90/00s car. I can only speak for myself but i wanted something that i could thrash if i wanted but something that could just as easily be used to do touring (albeit luggage space is limited).
Plan to use my car for the regular trip across the channel to the 24hrs and the bi-annual classic (which is target for next year).
Gary T
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Post by R2S on Oct 21, 2013 22:56:42 GMT
hi mike, take the plunge and join the small band of replicars, mine is number six. if anything i think the build may be simpler than exocet as everything is covered by the body so not as critical to get suspension and frames looking perfect (although i do plan to go to town on mine). Where exactly are you based? some excellent threads on the site, definitely the modern way rather than a build manual its all on the inter web. R2S
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Post by R2S on Oct 21, 2013 22:03:18 GMT
The new parts look like quality, where in south wales is the auto grass builder based, can you send me his details via message? Various parts on my Replicar donor are goosed and this looks like a much more sensible approach. What bushes are you using?
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