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Post by R2S on Feb 27, 2014 21:08:32 GMT
I'm looking to meet with the IVA inspectors well before i put car forward and will ask the question re filler in hump for anyone else thinking of similar placement.
Also happy to ask any other questions folk may want to send me, anyone with a question send it to my messages and I'll post responses to questions under a different thread after I have met with inspectors.
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Post by R2S on Feb 27, 2014 10:02:25 GMT
both my own proposal and that of snowbird 1 is to have the filler in the rear deck either under the hump or under the false boot cover, both of which sit behind the rear cxckpit bulkhead so shouldn't be an issue.
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Post by R2S on Feb 24, 2014 15:43:01 GMT
Wow what a first post completely put me to shame, some great progress .
Glad someone else has found the benefit of air tools, i even got the body/subframe bolts to come off with the air gun alone.
Thinking of using blasting grit for cleaning the suspension and sub frames, blasting cabinet made out of old water header tank and sheet of heavy duty perspex (suspect this won't last long).
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Post by R2S on Feb 24, 2014 12:03:03 GMT
Feb 24, 2014 1:11:28 GMT snowbird1 said: I'm still thinking of using the stock Miata filler neck, cap and vent hidden behind the headrest on the 'aero hump', I've made a bracket that bolts onto the RH upper seat belt mount. Still have to figure how to route the fill pipe about 140 deg to connect to the tank.
Could tank be rotated 180 degrees? this would put filler under 'hump'.
On the subject of the spare and trips abroad i was thinking (dangerous i know) what about carrying just the tyre? This could be squeezed through the frame, to sit above the tank, and solves two problems, spare and what to do with punctured wheel.
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Post by R2S on Feb 24, 2014 11:53:44 GMT
have moved response to tank discussion, and spare, to my thread rather than James' build.
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Post by R2S on Feb 23, 2014 18:25:20 GMT
After the previous comments re spare i tried the space saver that came with the donor and even this is a tight squeeze through the frame! Snowbird1 makes a good point about what do you do with the wheel that comers off and i think the road side assistance service may be the best option although i'm note sure how reliable this might be if i ever do make it to Le Mans (I know this year is out of the question based on my slow progress, although looking to lift body off donor this week whilst my boy is on half term and can supply some muscle). Love the way the floor ties into the sill, from the photo it looks like the floor is bending upwards, if so any idea how much at the outer edge? I am looking to put in a side exhaust and was going to box this section in alloy but i'm thinking it might be too rigid to pull the body to if there is no flex in base (hope this makes sense). On the subject of tyres I am looking at Vredestein Sprint Classic 185 R15 to fit the wires i bought from MEV, strangely they were advertised at £85 from Camskill (when they had them in stock) but are now priced at £111 (when they don't have any in stock!). Bit pricey but i've always bought the best tyres i could afford (just means the wife will have to miss a couple of meals out). By the way i have also bought some fake spinners from Europa that don't look bad. On the fuel filler i am retaining the MX5 cap and catchment with over flow pipe, I am going to blend into the body hence my questions about the tank position relative to the lines in the body. Hopefully by end of week i'll be in a position to answer the question on best position for cap using my own chassis and body.
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Post by R2S on Feb 18, 2014 0:07:53 GMT
Thought i was a little tipsy for a while when looking at the wheels and then realised it was because there are four fixings holes but five spokes!
I wouldn't go green on the wheels as it would be a bit much (but obviously your call), I wouldn't go black either but then i am old school.
Saw the Aston DB7 they did on Wheeler Dealers and they went a very dark gun metal with their silver wheels which might just be right for your car (assume the episode will be somewhere on the internet), dark gunmetal (or black to be fair) would also hide the strange hole/spoke arrangement.
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Post by R2S on Feb 15, 2014 17:10:36 GMT
Great photos, really helpful, liking the master switch and battery location. Will need a water tight box for same location on my UK car!!
Loving the seats but won't get through IVA here, good news is i have located a company that will make me seats (IVA compliant) with shaped headrest to match the fairing and will use same design of headrest on passenger seat.
Shouldn't the stainless cap have the number 710 on it ?(couldn't resist the feminist joke, no doubt i'll get a lecture if the wife reads this)
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Post by R2S on Feb 11, 2014 13:43:04 GMT
Sounds like the dash was a real challenge but looks worth the effort, with the body on do you think a full size spare would fit over the tank thro the chassis in the cabin? My plan was to use the original space saver but now realise the difference in dia/circ to the new tyres is likely to be too great.
Do you know yet which IVA test centre you are going to use?
Any thoughts yet on fuel filler?
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Post by R2S on Feb 9, 2014 21:57:24 GMT
Hoping someone can answer this one.
I have managed to track down a fabricator of Mk1 replacement tubular front subframe used to fit V6s to the Mk1 (but can be used if retaining the standard engine).
The fabricator has only produced for Mk1s and seems to think the Mk2 subframe is different but this doesn't seem to make sense as the MEV kit says both Mk1 and Mk2 donors can be used.
Anyone know the difference between the two subframes (had a look at the Mazda manuals but its not obvious), if any?
Fabricator has also said they can make some tubular wishbones if i provide mine as templates for jig (I will be making sure the stiffening/cross bar on front uppers allows plenty of clearance (See Shauns Exocet build)).
Will post once i have more details.
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Post by R2S on Feb 6, 2014 13:48:36 GMT
Result.
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Post by R2S on Feb 4, 2014 21:47:20 GMT
Good idea on the lipstick will give it a go.
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Post by R2S on Jan 31, 2014 13:33:58 GMT
was recently talking to another parent outside my children's school and discovered he used to manufacture kit cars! the upshot is he has offered to introduce me to the chaps who do the IVA testing at my nearest centre to get some pre build tips on the do's and don'ts so i can check out whether some of my proposals are worth doing before I IVA.
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Post by R2S on Jan 31, 2014 13:22:48 GMT
Which chassis number is that Stuart? It looks like the colour i spec'd and picking up the comment about the original colours varying i simply wanted to try and match a picture i had (but as we all know picture colour can vary so not foolproof).
As for main body AST1140 is the colour for me, still not sure about yellow lipstick as opinion in the household is divided, daughter and i think yes, wife and son think no (head of household has casting vote so i just need to change her mind).
I am looking to have wine/red seats with the same colour on the transmission tunnel. Alloy floor pans with timber footrest in passenger side (subject to routing of side exhaust).
I am going off piste with the grill (I just don't like the original) and have come up with what i think is a cunning plan for the petrol filler but don't want to show my hand just yet in case it doesn't work.
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Post by R2S on Jan 20, 2014 20:29:54 GMT
Shaun
This may be a stupid thought but:-
Something struck me looking at the picture, and it may just be the angle the picture was taken but are the upper control arms mounted in the right sides i.e have you put the eft on the right and right on the left?
With the originals it would be obvious but with your fabricated ones i'm not so sure.
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