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Post by R2S on Jan 20, 2014 15:28:10 GMT
The arch linings are plain 2mm black polypropylene sheet, easy to work with-cut with scissors, and stressed in place by the curve of the rebate on the wheel arch, riv-nuts placed into the polyprop and simple drilled through the rebate so that when screwed up the whole thing is rigid. Modified for clearances once road test carried out.
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Post by R2S on Jan 14, 2014 22:17:19 GMT
Good spot re the arch liners, must confess i was focussed on, in no particular order:-
Vents Spinners Side exhaust Paint codes Tyres, type and size
More photos
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Post by R2S on Jan 14, 2014 22:14:20 GMT
Thanks for the responses thoughts/comments are:-
Providing hole used for rivnuts is no greater than hole to be used for rivets I'm not sure how this can make it any weaker? Dont forget i am only talking about light wt panels so don't need large bolts or set screws.
Drilling and tapping only allows a depth of thread as deep as chassis/material thickness where as (if i understand correctly) rivnut gives deeper threaded section.
Flow drilling not an option as chassis is powder coated so any heat build up will damage surrounding area.
Not sure of the benefits of mag drilling i thought this was just for large sections/hole dias where pressure on drill/material interface can't be applied by hand drilling?
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Post by R2S on Jan 14, 2014 17:50:30 GMT
Looks brilliant AND side exhausts, any chance of being put in direct contact Stuart?
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Post by R2S on Jan 9, 2014 19:26:51 GMT
Difficult to say without knowing the individual.
I make a point of getting to know my local MOT guys and the upshot is they have suggested i take the replicar down to them before i go for IVA and they will amongst other things set the headlights for me.
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Post by R2S on Jan 8, 2014 22:24:18 GMT
Good luck for 2014.
It will never handle with such a short wheel base
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Post by R2S on Jan 8, 2014 16:41:14 GMT
Seats and part dash removed - loving my air wrench Roof and shelf removed
front end stripped
Breaking rear axle nuts
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Post by R2S on Jan 8, 2014 16:18:03 GMT
just had an idea re the bubbles
use the original as mould, fill with expanding foam - heres the new bit - remove the foam and use this as sacrificial template sanding down from back face, if you get it wrong simple to do another which can then be re-inserted in bubble for marking up.
or am i just making things too complicated?
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Post by R2S on Jan 8, 2014 13:51:22 GMT
Good luck. I was wondering whether you could fill bubble with expanding foam (assume your perspex is lined like mine) and then sand down from rear a small piece at a time once foam has set removing foam on completion?
Stu if you read this do you have any thoughts?
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Post by R2S on Jan 8, 2014 13:46:44 GMT
Spent a good day stripping yesterday but wasted a good hour, and damaged dash, trying to find the screws behind the vents referred to in the strip down guide. They don't exist on the MK2 and assume the notes are for the MK 1 (Shame this wasn't made clear in the notes, can someone up date them to save anyone else making the same mistake?).
Work completed yesterday:-
Roof removed (thanks to Piston Heads post re removal of back edge from gutter) and set aside for resale, pretty sure its a recent replacement as it is, with the exception of a small patch of surface rust on the frame, in perfect condition (Mohair with heated glass) so should sell. Seats out Bonnet off Wings off Steering removed Dash, all but removed (main frame still in place whilst i complete labelling electrics, but main element, speedo etc, and central elements removed). Axle nuts loosened. - Great shout from 'gwnwar' re the axle nuts would never have got them undone if i'd tried after removing body weight - used my standard socket set and bar with 6' scaffold and bent my bar - found the 1" drive set that my father in law has and used with the 6' scaffold tube, 'success'. Small lengths of timber (2" dia round section) placed in all four corners (wishbones) in advance of body removal to prevent collapse. Lots of electrical cable/connection labelling).
Ran out of light!
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Post by R2S on Jan 8, 2014 13:33:06 GMT
Haven't decided what to do with ABS yet, back when i used to work on my cars none had ABS, and i never managed to crash one (hope i am not tempting fate) so not sure i see the need to keep.
Have you worked out yet how to cut down the perspex headlamp bubbles to the right sized/shape for both sides in order that the profile is the same/match?
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Post by R2S on Jan 6, 2014 18:24:47 GMT
i know there is a Stratos kit that uses Alfa bits but other than the V6 i don't know which other bits are used.
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Post by R2S on Jan 5, 2014 22:08:01 GMT
Have you done away with ABS?
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Post by R2S on Jan 5, 2014 22:06:20 GMT
Looking good Shaun, not sure i can stretch to £505 for shocks never mind £700+.
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Post by R2S on Jan 5, 2014 22:01:54 GMT
Anyone out there used rivnuts in their build?
I am particularly keen to have a transmission tunnel which is easy to take off/replace and using rivnuts in the chassis seems the perfect solution.
couple of other ares where being able to remove panels might be advantage, side exhaust and catalyst access being just two.
I am interested in size of RivNut to use and tools required?
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