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Post by snowbird1 on May 3, 2019 15:20:56 GMT
I think the thing on the front of the fuel rail should be a pulsation damper, no lines connected to it, could the part have come of another car? There should be another one in the fuel line near the engine.
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Post by snowbird1 on Apr 25, 2019 3:36:56 GMT
Progress report on the Arizona Sonic, it is getting close to being drivable – I won’t say finished, as we know Kit Cars are never really finished! All the wiring completed: Cooling system seems OK, a couple of minor leaks but no problem filling, I think running the return line along the bottom of the chassis helped. Had a problem with the high speed fan not coming on, spent half an hour checking the signal from the ECU to the relay and the power circuit to the fan before discovering I was missing a fuse - "D'oh!" Front hinged the front cover, slots allow it to slide back when open: I will fit a spring hold down in the cooling duct at the rear, no external fittings. I didn’t like the idea of bolting a heavy steel fender support to an aluminium upright so I had a local fabricator make me a pair in 6061 aluminium: We’ll see if they hold up. Started to fit the rear fender supports and found I have 3 with 100 mm spacing and 1 with 80 mm – I didn’t realise there are 2 sizes. I’m guessing the longer ones are for wider wheels but they come close to the side panels at full bump. The new 205/15R55 tires on 15 X 6.5 wheels fit nicely under the fenders, I think they look better than the 17’s. The taller side walls should have a bit more compliance and the brakes look bigger! I had and odd problem, on startup the accessory drive belt would squeal, seemed like the generator was running on full load for about 30 seconds then charging normally, I went to check the control signal from the ECU and found the connector not fully plugged in – problem solved. Still not sure what was happening, but I mention it incase anyone else has something similar. Engine and accessories are mainly as they came from the donor: Plan is to run it for a while then do a valve job and pretty it up a bit.
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Post by snowbird1 on Apr 15, 2019 20:30:52 GMT
A bit confused with your terminology, running lights, driving lights, headlights:
Parking lights (UK terminology - Tail/Number plate/Side lights - TNS), illegal to drive with only parking lights in the US but must come on with the headlights.
Headlights, required to have a means to dim/dip to prevent dazzling other drivers, I’m not sure if you can argue that your lights have only dim/dip.
Running lights, usually Day Light Running lights (DLRs) come on with key on, must turn off when headlights are on.
Driving lights, usually refer to auxiliary lights, fog lights, long range driving lights, cornering lights etc.
If you are using a DPDT switch first position should ground the TNS relay, second position the headlamp relay. Power from the headlight relay (wht/blk) can connect directly to either the red/wht or red/blk if you are not using a dimmer switch.
If you have DRLs, they will need a separate circuit, powered with key on via a relay that turns them off when the headlamps are on.
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Post by snowbird1 on Apr 8, 2019 14:37:52 GMT
I moved my battery forward but I haven't been able to start the car without a jump box since, so it looks like the '800A' jump cable from Aldi was garbage, once I stripped off the thick plastic, there was about 25-30A wire inside. Quell surprise... Down I popped to the local motor factor and bought 3m of red 300A cable of 12mm cross sectional diameter, bloody heavy stuff, massive bend radius, definitely not going to be the weak link. Bought these giant crimp-on connectors too. I didn't have crumping and used the edge of the vice for the first of 4. The next three were done with a punch and giant hammer, which is definitely better. Live was made ground with lots of the biggest shrink tubing I had A decent bit of corrosion had built up on the inner front firewall where I've earthed my battery, I suppose this is to be expected. I will probably cover this in grease of some sort. Always difficult to get a good crimp on heavy cables, I've found a cheap brake flaring tool works well: It might be a good idea to sweat some solder into the terminals and heat shrink over the whole joint to seal it. Your ground will be better if it has a metal to metal contact directly with the chassis, aluminium is notorious for corroding when in contact with other metals, especially when it has electricity flowing through it!
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Post by snowbird1 on Apr 7, 2019 14:00:12 GMT
Mazda made a car that was Cheap, Light and Good - you usually only get two of the three!
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Post by snowbird1 on Apr 4, 2019 13:56:53 GMT
I apply a drop of Loctite to the outside of the rivnut, taking care not to get it on the threads, I feel it helps to lock and seal it.
However I have no evidence that this does anything except make me feel better!
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Post by snowbird1 on Mar 19, 2019 14:23:37 GMT
Fuel, vent and brake lines are attached to the body, easy to remove after you lift it off, if your donor is a newer car it has only one fuel line (no return line), also may have an electronic speedo, no speedo cable. BTW it is helpful to add details of you donor to the signiture line of your profile. The easiest way to drain the fuel tank is to connect a hose from the fuel line to a suitable container and jumper the fuel pump.
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Post by snowbird1 on Mar 11, 2019 14:03:10 GMT
Might be a question for snowbird1 as his build, and use of car, was in Arizona, single fan is more than adequate for the weather here in Derbyshire. I just ran a single fan, no problem cooling up to 40C once I sorted the other cooling problems (no coolant flow through the 8 mm line from the rear of the engine to the t-stat housing and wrong t-stat fitted). Remember fans actually restrict airflow through the radiator over about 40 MPH, if the fans are controlled by the ECU they will usually switch off at speed and be allowed to 'windmill'. I sourced a higher capacity auto trans radiator but didn't use it - $50 plus shipping if anyone wants it!
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Post by snowbird1 on Mar 1, 2019 15:13:02 GMT
Just a couple of questions please. If this is the charcoal cannister, then what is this smaller greasy looking one on the opposite side. ...and finally for cannister delete. I think I can basically join 1 to 5 and thats it ? so no need for 2, 3, 4 and the block that 1 and 2 go to ? Thank you The way the EVAP system works is: fuel tank petrol fumes are trapped by the carbon canister, when the engine and O2 sensors have warmed up the ECU will cycle the purge valve (the block in your picture) and check if the O2 sensor goes rich or lean, if rich it will continue purging. If you disconnect the purge valve the open circuit may set an OBD fault and cause the Check Engine light to come on. If you are going to eliminate the canister it is probably best to leave lines 2 and 5 open to atmosphere, if you connect 1 and 5 together you will be applying manifold vacuum to the fuel tank – not a good idea!
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Post by snowbird1 on Feb 18, 2019 18:45:41 GMT
Not sure about bearing lock, I'd be worried about seizing up the whole bearing! The Loctite should not be able to get into the sealed bearing - wipe off any surplus after the bearing has been pressed in.
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Post by snowbird1 on Feb 18, 2019 14:19:49 GMT
Difficult to believe the bearing is that loose in the housing, I suspect the hub/bearing/driveshaft assembly is not champing to together correctly, are they all standard parts including the nut?
If it is the bearing housing - did it get distorted when pressing the bearing in?
If I remember right there is a Loctite product called 'bearing lock', I don't know how much clearance it will take up.
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Post by snowbird1 on Feb 17, 2019 14:17:48 GMT
Certainly isn't right - is your hub nut fully torqued? What thickness spacer is that?
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Post by snowbird1 on Jan 30, 2019 14:07:20 GMT
The idle speed control (ISC) hums when the ignition is on.
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Post by snowbird1 on Jan 27, 2019 14:44:53 GMT
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Post by snowbird1 on Jan 5, 2019 14:57:30 GMT
I think we may be confusing the expansion tank with a header tank. Most modern vehicles have a pressurised header tank that is the fill point for the cooling system - this has to be the highest point. The MX5 has the pressure cap on the radiator and an expansion tank that captures the extra coolant when hot and allows it to be drawn back into the rad as it cools. As long as the the line from the rad is positioned at the bottom of the tank it should not matter where it is positioned.
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