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Post by snowbird1 on Jul 5, 2020 0:19:28 GMT
Reading through my build story I realized I hadn’t mentioned much about the electrics, most of the wiring was from the original Focus donor, I didn’t use the GEM or the IP the GEM functions were incorporated into the BJB The SVT IP looks good but the Acewell is more compact and has a ‘real’ temperature gauge and some data logging. The location of the PCM is pretty much governed by the engine harness, I mounted mine in the side pod using the original housing: Outside view, before the side body was installed. Access from the inside panel: The fuel shutoff switch is located next to the PCM. The main EMS power, starter and fuel pump driver relays and fuses located in engine compartment.
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Post by snowbird1 on Jun 9, 2020 23:39:03 GMT
A few days of cooler weather - a chance to go for a drive on the Old Road: Some ass holding up traffic! (Wild burros stand on the road and scrounge for food from the tourists).
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Post by snowbird1 on Jun 6, 2020 21:20:48 GMT
I'm guessing you mean neutral switch - purple wire to the ECU (PCM), the other side of the switch should be a black ground wire.
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Post by snowbird1 on May 15, 2020 18:48:00 GMT
The temperature and oil pressure gauges share the same power and ground, if they are working you can concentrate on checking the single (yellow) wire to the fuel tank sender and the (black/white) wire to the ignition coils or the (yellow/blue) wire if you have a separate igniter.
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Post by snowbird1 on Apr 26, 2020 16:03:17 GMT
Fitted a rear wing: I had been looking at the one that came with the kit but the steel support brackets seemed a bit much - they weigh over 2 kilos : I saw the aluminium one on ebay, seemed cheap enough ($38) to just get it for the mounting brackets but it looked OK with the aluminium blade and it probably gives just as much down force as the 'big' wing (i.e. hardly any) with less drag. It also works as a stop for the hinged engine cover:
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Post by snowbird1 on Apr 14, 2020 17:41:39 GMT
April Update: We have a functionating gearshift with the gears in the right places, it’s a bit of a hybrid (i.e. lash up!) using the shifter from the SVT with the push-pull functions reversed and the base from a 5-speed. I was having trouble getting 5th gear, when I took it apart I realised 5th is now in the blank position below reverse in the original role – needed to grind away some of the gate to make it usable. The car had been running well but hesitating on acceleration, I checked and there was a ‘fuel pressure sensor’ fault recorded, checked the sensor wiring and swapped out the sensor but the fault reset immediately when the engine started. Hooked the pressure guage – zero fuel pressure Figured that the gauge must be bad because the engine was running – gauge was OK. Checked the tank and the plastic pressure hose was broken! I can only assume that as the fuel level in the tank was above the end of the hose and manifold pressure was sucking the fuel through the injectors. Replaced the hose and now runs fine. Found some hood louvers on ebay for the rear engine cover – cooler air in on the left: and hot air out on the right – hopefully
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Post by snowbird1 on Feb 11, 2020 15:02:23 GMT
I've never tried to clean a cat but my feeling is that solvents won't work very well, cooking it might be more successful, I would try burning it out with a blow torch, cats can run up to red heat so you probably can't hurt it.
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Post by snowbird1 on Feb 9, 2020 17:31:31 GMT
If the lambda (HO2S) sensor is not working it should have flagged a OBDII fault, the sensor needs to be working for the cat to operate. When the system is in closed loop the fueling will be switching rich/lean, the O2 available during the lean part of the cycle is used by the cat to function, if the downstream HO2S senses O2 in the exhaust it ‘knows’ that the cat isn’t working. If the HO2S is not functioning or the system is not going into closed loop a new cat won’t help. You can monitor sensor operation with a DVOM connected to the sensor output, on the MX5 this means back probing the sensor connection although the scan tool may show it.
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Post by snowbird1 on Feb 8, 2020 14:56:31 GMT
Might be worth mentioning what engine it is for in the ad.
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Post by snowbird1 on Jan 21, 2020 14:17:08 GMT
Run out to a local car show Sunday - temperature about 8 degrees (46 F), chilly for us and a cold North wind but I noticed when the thermostat opened there was plenty of warm air coming into the cockpit. The problem will be getting the heat out from the radiator when it warms up here. I didn't want to cut holes in the front cover but I think it will be necessary, found these louvers on ebay - they don't look too bad :
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Post by snowbird1 on Nov 22, 2019 15:16:47 GMT
Don't know, it was the only manual shift Ford in the local dismantlers, for/aft shift opposite to the SVT one, got it with the cables and connected them to the SVT cables - seemed ideal until I discovered the wrong left/right shift. At my local dismantler in Wales, lots of Fords, all with manual shifts, surprising how many different Ford shifters there are! Found one that all the levers moved the 'right' way, (forgot which Ford it came out of): Unfortunately the cable lengths are different so won't just bolt in. I should make something like this: I've got as far as buying the Rose (heim) joints !
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Post by snowbird1 on Nov 20, 2019 15:30:59 GMT
I’ve been a bit slow getting back to work on the AZ Sonic, I’ve fitted the ‘temporary’ plastic windscreen as the glass one ‘fell off’ (my story and I’m sticking to it). Having fun driving it, great performance. Engine cooling seems OK, temps here are now down to the comfortable 30-degree range (85F). Occupant cooling needs work though! A lot of heat coming from the front and rear of the car, need to work on insulation and ventilation. Not happy with the gear shift, I’m using the shifter off a US 5-speed, 1,3,5 gears are forward but 1-2 are over to the right D’oh, embarrassing trying to pull away in 5th half the time! Working on a solution. The advantage of LHD is that the weight of the driver offsets the engine, but the disadvantage is cramped space for the clutch foot, need to modify the front inner panel to provide space for a foot rest.
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Post by snowbird1 on Nov 10, 2019 17:49:50 GMT
Here is a little video about Mazda MX5 diagnostics I made a while ago:
Not sure it's relevant but it might be helpful.
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Post by snowbird1 on Nov 10, 2019 17:36:29 GMT
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Post by snowbird1 on Nov 10, 2019 15:21:32 GMT
One of these little guys is invaluable for monitoring the injector pulse:
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