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Post by snowbird1 on Jan 1, 2019 17:44:18 GMT
2019 Arizona Sonic Update. Progress report – clutch and brake system bled, had trouble with a brake fluid leak at one of the Wilwood solid line to flex chassis fitting, checked the flare on the conifer brake line a couple of times, even checked the seating on the bench (with a spare fitting). Finally discovered I had a bad fitting on the car, it wasn’t threaded all the way and the nipple was bottoming on the thread before it clamped the flare: Finished the installation of the fuel tank and advanced evap system. Shortening the hand brake cables turned out to be easier than I thought – the plastic ends of the outer cable pull off, I cut about 2 feet off the inner and outer, the problem then is how to swage the nipples on to the ends of the cable – found these: Swageless fittings for 1/8” stainless railing cable – a bit clunky but they are as strong as the cable. I like to use OE parts when possible and have coupled the shift cables for the 6-speed box to the 5-speed shifter cables: Used the base of the 6-speed shifter and the 2 shifter cable brackets that came with the kit. Seems to work OK, we will find out when it is on the road. I used 16 mm nylon rod the mount the rear lights: Still working on the front lighting. Trying to make a decision on wheel/tyre combo – thinking of a 15 inch 50 profile tyre but the donor came with a decent set of 215/45R17’s so I will use those to get it rolling then decide later. Not as much progress as I hoped but it's getting there. Once the cooling system is all completed I'll be able to drive it
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Post by snowbird1 on Dec 3, 2018 14:10:22 GMT
Just a guess - combustion chamber volume grades?
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Post by snowbird1 on Nov 30, 2018 14:22:57 GMT
There isn't room for the complete air box - this is what I ended up with: I planned to run a cool air hose up from the LH vent on the nose but never got around to it
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Post by snowbird1 on Nov 11, 2018 14:15:44 GMT
I'm a little unsure what the these two sets of pipes are.... I feel like the black ones are to do with the engine cooling, and go through to the heater in the cockpit..... And I feel like the steel pipes are to do with the A/C refrigerant, if anyone could confirm or correct that it would be much appreciated. It looks like I need to disconnect them so I can remove the heater and A/C from the cockpit. Correct: Ideally the refrigerant should be recycled before disconnecting the AC pipes. Note that the heater pipes will need to be looped together on the engine, coolant flow through these pipes help to cool the rear cylinders.
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Post by snowbird1 on Oct 28, 2018 0:32:48 GMT
Assuming you have a Mk 1 Focus engine (it is worth adding car and donor details to your signature line) it should be a 120 kPa (1.2 bar or 17.4 PSI) cooling system.
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Post by snowbird1 on Oct 24, 2018 14:33:49 GMT
My crank measurement is coming in at 44.5mm & the Haynes spec on this is 44.940mm to 44.956 nominal, so I will need a crank grind. I am using a cheap digital vernier, so things may be better or worse than my measurements when it gets onto the proper machine. If the crank looks good - i.e. has the original polished finish on the bearing journals it is probably OK, measuring the crank may be misleading even with a decent micrometer trying to measure to hundreths of a millimeter can be difficult. More important is the crank to bearing clearances, this can be checked with Plastigage.
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Post by snowbird1 on Sept 25, 2018 14:18:56 GMT
7/16 UNF is industry standard.
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Post by snowbird1 on Sept 5, 2018 6:43:59 GMT
A difficult one, the only thing that I can think of is a ECU fault. Have you checked the ECU power circuits? You say you replaced the key fob - I thought the key had to be paired with the ECU. Don't know exactly what the immobiliser protocol is, does the ECU need to 'see' other inputs than just the key.
BTW it's useful if you include donor details on your signature line.
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Post by snowbird1 on Aug 20, 2018 9:13:34 GMT
It's not my diagram, so not sure I should post it on the public site.
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Post by snowbird1 on Aug 20, 2018 7:04:17 GMT
The 1999 was the one year that Mazda used the 6-wire hazard switch, it consists of one NC (Normally Closed) and three NO (Normally Open) switches (other years had a simple on/off switch). If I remember right the Savage switches have generic NO/NC micro switches, they can be used but I think you will need a relay and some diodes. I've PMed you a circuit diagram for another car the uses the Savage type switches - hope this helps.
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Post by snowbird1 on Jul 28, 2018 7:35:07 GMT
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Post by snowbird1 on Jul 27, 2018 6:22:48 GMT
They look like the plugs for the shifter detent springs, possibly not disastrous to remove but I would not touch them.
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Post by snowbird1 on Jul 21, 2018 6:57:54 GMT
The SRS is a stand alone system, you can remove the control module and all wiring including seat belt tensioners. The warning light earths through the wiring, so shouldn't illuminate. As long as the drivers airbag is disconnected it is safe but I'm sure what the IVA implications are.
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Post by snowbird1 on Jul 10, 2018 6:53:21 GMT
It's been a rough couple of weeks getting any progress done on my engine rebuild due to some stupid mistakes that I've made. I'm a little embarrassed to share this story but it may brighten someone's day to read about my misery. I got the new SuperTech dual valve springs installed with no problems and was feeling pretty good with myself so I dove right into putting the cams back in. Checked the service manual on the torque pattern and torque setting and started putting everything back together. Here's where my comedy of errors begin. The service manual changes to inch/lbs. for the cam bolts instead of foot/lbs. I know everyone must be saying are you stupid? Well, the answer is yes. Once I started to torque everything down I started to get worried about the massive amount of pressure I was exerting on my puny cam bolts. I then felt one start to give so I backed it out and found that I had stretched it. Instead of rechecking the service manual I decided it must be my torque wrench that is the problem. So, in my infinite wisdom I look around for a bolt to wrench on to see when my torque wrench would click to get a feel for how much torque I'm applying. The first thing I see is my new coilovers attached to my chassis for show at the moment. Perfect! I'll wrench on it to see if my torque wrench is working right. Don't feel bad, I was torquing some caliper bolts (not Mazda) to 85 ft/lbs, seemed a bit tight but I checked the specs - felt the last bolt give - rechecked the specs - at the bottom of the page it said 'newton meters' (about 62 lb/ft) D'oh! Had to replace all the caliper bolts - expensive mistake.
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Post by snowbird1 on Jun 16, 2018 12:05:18 GMT
Update on the AZ Sonic build. Radiator connected with the help of some stainless tubing left over from a previous build that used the Toyota MR2 as a donor. (The MR2 has nice long 32 mm stainless coolant pipes with lots of useful bends.) Fuel tank is mounted and the EVAP gubbins (technical term) all hooked up. Fuel lines connected and engine fired up OK. Side panels are bolted in place, suspension assembled with new nylocs and all bolts torqued. I’ve put the car away for the Summer, Arizona is getting a bit warm (110-115F 40+C) time to do the Snowbird thing and head back to Wales. I was hoping the car would be finished before we left but there is still plenty of work to do on the car when we get back to AZ in October. Still have to figure out gearshift cables and I would like to find shorter handbrake cables, hoping to get some ideas at Curborough .
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