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Post by casesensitive on Sept 11, 2020 13:08:14 GMT
I've cut my up recently to fit a better pump solution, and it's definitely not dual anything, it's 1.5mm Al seam welded in a sort of a wedge-shape. For those looking to find the capacity, run your fuel pump with the return to a jerry can till it's completely empty. Then add measured fuel carefully until its full. I calculated my tank would have 28l by measuring the outside, but it was more like 25l when I went to pour the stuff in. As its irregular, if you want your % left to be accurate all all times, you'll need a Spyda or similar, which I have. mevowners.proboards.com/post/110255/thread
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Post by casesensitive on Aug 17, 2020 8:04:26 GMT
This is essentially the only pre-pump filter I'll have now and I think I've lost any anti-slosh capabilities the Ford system would have had. Taller 'tower' is the return, centre of focus one is the feed Angled the sender arm so it no longer fouls the tank edge. Tank insert looking pretty grimy, this is after a petrol and meths wash. I took an outline of it on some firmer 1.5mm stainless sheet, but thought with limited time I'd concentrate on getting it working rather than perfect Fuel hoses were coming in at a gammy angle, so I cut new ones in a better spot. I have little grommets to fill the old holes. All snugged up Didn't have a chance to test, as I have to wire up the Walbro yet, and my 4 hour parenting break had come to an end. See you again in a month
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Post by casesensitive on Aug 17, 2020 7:58:45 GMT
Having quite a few fuel pumps fail (4? 5?) inside the tank, I thought I'd do something a little more permanent. My fuel pressure regulator is also reading more like 2 bar of pressure than the 3-3.5 it should and used to, so either the fleabay Focus pump is a bit rubbish, or the reg is off. So I bought a proper Walbro external pump, and the plan is to have simple fuel hoses run from the new Focus sender lid down to the base which will be screwed into my tank insert. Return is back the same way, down to it's little receptacle in the base. Part 1 though, match my existing M4 bolt pattern to the new lid. Used a gym mat and some graph paper, got a much closer fit than the old one, and while I was at it, I added split washers and nuts to the tank-side of any bolts that ran free, giving a much more solid fit. Should really have done all of them, not just the ones that were wobbily. Took the chance to reposition the lid and connectors so they face straight back towards the bulkhead for neatness. Sure why not?
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Post by casesensitive on Jun 17, 2020 8:54:24 GMT
Wow. Must go like stink. I'd be very interested to know about the brackets for your spoiler, did you do a CAD design yourself and get them laser cut /waterjetted or did you tell someone what you wanted and commission the bits from start to finish? Either way, a nice touch. You have convinced me... to leave well enough alone and stick with stockish power from my ST170/ITBs, I don't think I'd recover from one blown engine much less two!
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Post by casesensitive on Apr 21, 2020 15:49:14 GMT
I put in a heroic Daddying shift Fri-Sat, doing two full nights of feeds (she's an every 2 hours kind of baby) and the deepest clean of wooden floorboards in this house's history, earning myself a few precious hours out in the garage nag-free on Sunday. Oh how my life has changed. Anyway, since I last worked on the car, the second PowerVamp 22 Clubsport battery is f3cked too, holding steady at 0.17V. Dropping in the recently replaced 72Amp battery from my DERV Alfa made it chug a few times but there appeared fundamentally to be a current bandwidth issue. I weighed the option of simply welding an m8 nut to the chassis to create a ground point and running my existing 70mm^2 short ground to there, but my welding plant and all my stock are the other side of a locked-down city, with Gardaí manning polite roadbloacks telling people to stay at home, so I can't actually go and get it for the next few weeks or months. The postal systems are still working though, so throw more money at the problem! 485A cable for both positive and ground, proper terminals and a possibly-too-big battery. Looking forward to finding time to put it all in.
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Post by casesensitive on Apr 15, 2020 11:11:25 GMT
few hours today continuing to wire up all the batteries - its quite dangererous work as its easy to forget that the batteries are all live and can put out around 1000 amps with a short we have a set of insulated tools and have covered any we use in heat shrink after a nice mini sun from a dropped alan key. have to stay focused as the path through the battery case is tortuous and important cell modules are in an increasing voltage daisy change we have a cell on each 2 battery unit these will look like 2 separate battery series in parallel even though each pair is clamped so battery a1 will have the same voltage as b1 although different temperature etc. i need to plan a way of clamping the batteries down. I think i will make some delrin cross members to between each row and bolt to the case and we'll notch these to hold the inter connecting cables in place Incredible work guys. I bought a scabby old go kart frame, the plan was to remake it as an electric kart for my nephew. In the meantime, while I haven't built it, or my kit, I've made my own progeny, so it'll probably need to be pink now. Around winter 2027 I'll dig out your diary and get a start made!
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Post by casesensitive on Apr 15, 2020 11:09:07 GMT
Once I managed to short my battery via my wedding ring, intended up with a wedding ring shaped blister all around my finger, didn't half hurt and took ages to go down! Tig welding your wedding ring; cool. Tig welding wearing your wedding ring; not cool
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Post by casesensitive on Jan 29, 2020 18:10:24 GMT
End of an era! After nearly 7 years, my kit is finally coming to live at the same house as me. Bought the house (which had to have a garage) in July, and I've been doing it up since, including knocking out an internal wall and putting another roller door in the back wall so car can be driven / pushed through to the garden to give more space to work on large pieces. New space is only 2.8m x 6.4m so optimisation is key, lots of tall, narrow storage (3x 1.8m bays, 2.1m tall) and 4 wheel dollies to push the car laterally. Covered the floor in some 12.5mm rubber matting from a gym, nice and cosy underfoot. Got some crazy bright lighting too, 8x 6,000 lumen adjustable LEDs for a bright-as-the-surface-of-the-sun vibe. Tool boxes not yet moved over, time now extremely restricted by crying baby.
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Post by casesensitive on Jan 29, 2020 18:03:47 GMT
Hi Mike, the road is very unsure alright. I'm involving with the Irish Kit Car Club, and I'm supposed to be resurrecting ikcc.ie which ought to have all the info in the members section when its done, but we're having difficulty getting the domain registration details from the guy who was dealing with it. In short, yes, I've met the NSAI, who are basically happy to recognise the UK IVA, even after Brexit as an appropriate testing standard. You actually get an Irish IVA using the UK IVA, and you need some extra info like cornerweights that aren't going to be on that cert. Getting it on the road is an entirely different proposition. If money is no object, you go the Irish registration route; build car, register it with Revenue as a new build (so long as chassis is new, it's a new car, rules different to the UK). Then you're paying VRT of % the OMSP of the car, based on the CO2 of the engine, and potentially also VAT on the new car of 23%. So if they think your car is worth €15k on the Irish market, and you used an ST170 engine like me that's 34% or about 5 grand in VRT and about 3 more in VAT and you get a nice 201/202 reg. Or there's the murky register-it-in-the-UK and bring it in on a straight VRT basis, and hope that the age-related plate (you're better off with an old one for this route) you get yields a lower OMSP, and no VAT. You need to be legally resident in the UK and able to prove it with utility bills though. Still looking at about €2,500- 3,000 in VRT based on a low valuation with a polluting engine (212g/km). Might be worht springing for a small, efficient turbo'd Ecoboost to bring this down. Either way, if you can't afford €20k over the next 4/5 years, I would genuinely advise buying something with an Irish plate already, you can always strip it down and make it better. And I'd check if you cna get insurance too, the lads in the club are all really struggling now, and I've not been much help not getting the website up and running. Record every time an ad for any kind of kit car goes up, as OMSP is very hard to prove when there are none on sale! I have considered doing the IVA anyway, but not registering the car, and just keeping it for track days. Stephen (building a Locost in Garristown, Zebrano on Boards) has all but abandoned registering his for the road too, money is just too tight. I've just bought a house and had a baby, so neither of those things are likely any time soon unless my Lotto ticket comes in.
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Post by casesensitive on Nov 14, 2019 13:11:56 GMT
I measured my Rocket (Classic?) for the purposes of getting it into garage and building a trailer for it (planned)
Total rear track 1.68m Total front track 1.72m chassis length 3.15m to exhaust tips 3.3m
Other builds may vary a little, but not by more than 5/10%
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Post by casesensitive on Nov 4, 2019 13:58:42 GMT
Made two aluminium panels cut and fitted to be as close to the chassis tubes as possible and secured on the centre line of the tubes. P Do you mind me asking how you attached these? I've put off attempting to make panels for the various places I want to because I can't affix them neatly in some of the tighter spaces. You don't seem like a zip-tie sort of bloke, so I imagine you've got something better :-)
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Post by casesensitive on Nov 4, 2019 13:56:53 GMT
Replaced with plastic wiring channel which has a snap on lid so all the wires are contained inside. The relays all have integrated fuses and the three stand-alone fuses are panel mount. Much neater methinks. Yeah, I like this. Mine just looks so exposed. Or I think it did, haven't seen it in months.
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Post by casesensitive on Oct 31, 2019 16:42:34 GMT
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Post by casesensitive on Sept 12, 2019 10:53:48 GMT
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Post by casesensitive on Jul 31, 2019 9:41:22 GMT
There are range of people who'll do a remote tuning session for you, I'd try the Omex forums. The ME221 forums have two guys that'll come in over Skype or similar screen-sharing app. Obviously far and away your best bet is to find a tuner somewhat locally. It'll really help if you have a wideband O2 sensor and gauge installed, it takes a special kind of ear and nose to diagnose fuel mix remotely over a video chat!
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